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Changing U-joints tomorrow

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Old May 21, 2010 | 09:55 PM
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Changing U-joints tomorrow

Any pointers for a first timer on replacing rear driveline u-joints. 1999, f350 non-dually, 7.3l, 4x4, 176k miles
 
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Old May 21, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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Get a ball joint c shaped press. That always does the trick. Regrease your slip yoke with teflon based grease as well. Some have had luck using sockets and a vise but I haven't had luck with that method.
 
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Old May 21, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. After 202k mi., they were practically welded in. It was a lot of work but I can't think of any real tricks. Just drop the driveline and go to work with a big effing hammer and some sockets. I have a long, slender punch that came in handy. I was able to actually drive out some of the cups from the inside. The ideal thing would be to blast out the old u-joints if you have access to a cutting torch or plasma cutter. It would take less than half the time.
 
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Old May 21, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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And chock your tires! Pete (F250_) learned this the hard way.

Don't forget to mark the orientation of the drive shaft so everything goes back in the same way it came out and you don't end up with a vibration.

EDIT: Oh, and if you torch them out, watch out for flying end caps. They go pretty far when the grease explodes out of the joint.
 

Last edited by twags6; May 21, 2010 at 11:30 PM. Reason: added
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Old May 21, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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I believe the driveshaft is indexed so it can't be installed out of phase.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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i did mine on a 97 they where "welded" in, i used 2 sockets and a big hammer. see if you can spray it with some PB and it might help. fairly straight ford.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by camodown
I believe the driveshaft is indexed so it can't be installed out of phase.
You could still put the yoke back on 180* off. It is best to mark the end yokes and their relationship to the driveshafts. I just put center punch marks on each end and yoke, then match up the dots.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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Ah, I completely forgot that! My mistake.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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Did the repair work today and with all your help it was a piece of cake. I replaced them with serviceable zerk fittings. How offten and how much grease should I add.

Thanks
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jager
Did the repair work today and with all your help it was a piece of cake. I replaced them with serviceable zerk fittings. How offten and how much grease should I add.
Thanks
That's exactly what I did. I'm just planning to give mine a shot of grease every time I change the oil.
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Mine were so bad I had a complete driveline built(front and rear),the slip yolks were bad(tried greasing them but it didn't do any good).
 
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Old May 22, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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A good chassis grease will work in the u joints. I use Moly grease the Ford stuff in a tube. It was less than $4 a tube and is better in my opinion than the Traveller grease TSC sells. The joints need enough grease to fill part of the 'cross'. You don't need to put in enough grease so that that seals weep grease because the centripedal acceleration when you drive will be more than sufficient to distribute the injected grease.
 
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Old May 23, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks for the info
 
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