Nope. Just as fun/difficult. The part in color is the only IMPORTANT part of the instructions below.

Step 1: Get the gas out.
Step 2: Remove the TWO gas fill lines(one fill, one vapor), I got to them easy by removing the plastic fender well behind the driver side tire.
Step 3: Place jack center under, remove 4 bolts holding up gas tank/skid plate. IF it has a tow hitch, you can still remove the tank with a hitch attached, just a little more manuevering.
Step 4: lower half way, disconnect BOTH fuel lines(there and back) and EVAP hose(not sure on name), going to the charcoal box. You are better off cutting the evap hose than breaking the plastic part it attaches to(hard to find).
Step 5: Lower until you can see the fuel pump connector, disconnect.
Step 6: Drop on ground. rotate the lock ring(I use a big hammer and big flat head screw driver). Be careful when removing the fuel pump, two clips INSIDE the tank hold the pump into a cup ATTACHED to the bottom of the tank, if you break the clips, you can guess which part gets replaced. The clips will gently push outwards, away from center of the tank/pump.
Step 7: Reverse order, Get a beer(If you haven't already)

Those are written off of memory, so I sincerely apologize if I forgot anything.

 

HAHAHAHA!!

Step 1: Empty all 42 gallons of gas out. Trust me, spoken from experience. Filled the tank on the way home when my fuel pump went out. I was stopping my neighbors as they drove by to see if they needed gas in their car because I didn't have enough gas cans to hold it all. LOL

Step 6: Yes be very careful. Best to use a plastic wedge and rubber mallet so no sparks are created. And definitely be careful of the clips or you will need a lot of beers!

 

thanks.... no word today about how he wants to move forward with this...

any pics of the clips youre talking about ??? kinda confusing about how to remove pump without breaking them ??????

oh and it sounds a bit more of a PITA than my z71 was.... (1/2 tank in that )

 

X2 Landbarg. Had just finished installing the new engine, got frisky and filled up six 5 gallon tanks of gas, poured each one in the tank, hadn't bothered to see if the pump worked yet(it had sat for about a year before it came to my possession). Some mistakes have to be made ONLY ONCE.

 

No cats wont cause a lean code......It will set a convertor effeciency code based off the POST H02 sensor data. The lean codes are because its running lean. If you have weak spark on all cylinders (as your boss thinks is due to COP's) it would run more on the rich side, not lean. Your on the right track with the fuel system.

 

till you guys said FUEL PUMP and i seen it act up the other day checking fuel pressure i was figureing a trans valve/switch/pump kinda problem...

thanks for your help.. ill let him know he needs to go with a pump first.... $$$$$

 

LMAO... just txt my boss that youre all pointing fingers at a BAD FUEL PUMP....
his response.........


Fuel pumps do not act bad only when hot ! Fuel pressure regulator or spark.

 

I say have fun wasting his money.

Seriously though, I hope you find the problem before you throw too much hate into it.

 

I have had a similar problem with my Ex. It would start to have a serious loss of power and would not keep up to speed when driving. It would take 40 minutes of driving before the problem would start up. One second the truck was fine and the next no power; you could floor the gas peddle and no change in RPM's. And no engine codes are being thrown. I had four different sets of mechanics look at my EX and none could find the problem.
I tried searching FTE and several our the members reported having issues with the COP. I replaced several coil on plugs and all the spark plugs and that did not solve the issue. (how ever my engine was overdue for plugs so that was needed maintenance at 136,000 miles)
What did solve the problem was replacing a 14" long piece of 1/2" rubber fuel line that connect the fuel vapor return sensor mounted on the back left side of the engine compartment by the shock tower / hvac core. This $2 piece of rubber fuel line was crimped / collapsed. Ford does not sell this piece of hose by its self but, it is part of a $350 metal vapor recovery line (I think that the part number is: 3C72-9S278-EAB) which goes behind the engine and down to the fuel tank. Two hose clamps one on each end hold it to the plastic sensor (looks like a PCV) and the metal tube coming up behind the engine. Go check that line if, it is not collapsed, then
go check the other rubber lines as one of these probably has failed like mine did.

 

thanks for the reply and ill check some things out tomorrow if we get back to the EX... but what i want to know is how the hell did you look at anything on the backside of the engine ? its all packed under the cowl and hard to reach let alone look at...
i hate ford now that ive worked on their newer cars/trucks (lincolns/exp) its stupid designing and i would punch the engineers/designersin the mouth if i ever met them... <--me ... engineer --> when im done with them....

also i sprayed the whole engine down bit by bit looking for a vacumn leak.. found NONE so that ruled that out.... found this tonight while searching for a pic of the fuel vapor return sensor .. no luck...

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Another cause of P0171 and P0174 codes can be from a damaged mass airflow sensor. If the reading from the mass airflow is incorrect, the computer can be doing its calculations with wrong numbers. The computer bases the fuel mixture partially based on the amount of incoming air. If the computer sees more air entering the engine than what is actually going in it will enrich the mixture. Therefore if the computer sees less air than what is actually going into the engine it will decrease the amount of fuel in the mixture. Mass airflow sensors can be damaged by dirt getting past the air filter and sometimes from oil that can come off of aftermarket air filters such as K&N. K&N air filters have to be lightly oiled and if excessive oil is applied some of it can come off and endup in the mass airflow sensor. If oil contaminates the sensor it can cause skewed readings. Fuel Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure from the fuel pump can also rarely cause a lean condition. The fuel pump regulator could be allowing the wrong amount of pressure to be pumped to the fuel injectors. If a fuel filter is clogged or restricted this can alter the amount of fuel that reaches the injectors also. Fuel pressure is not likely to cause lean conditions though, due to the computer’s ability quickly compensate and adjust the air fuel mixture.

it has a K&N setup on it... looks clean so didnt clean/oil it at this time.. MAF looked pretty clean so all i did was spray it out with MAF CLEANER...

thanks again...

 

I agree that there is a lot of stuff stuffed in the engine compartment.

The Hose I was referring to comes off a metal tube coming up the back of the engine and over the last spark plug / cop and diagonally to your left and bend up in to the bottom of the Vapor sensor thingie.

 

k thanks brother... ill check it out tomorrow if i can...

 

Always start simple and go from there. It doesn't take much to throw these engines in limp mode. Mine would barely run cause of one fouled plug. I would imagine one bad coil pack would do the same. Its not like the old days when u could take a spark wire (or 2) off an engine and it would still run

 

HAHAHAHA, dang skippy! If I can avoid having to go thru that again, I will at all costs! If it happens on the Ex I'll just put in an external Walbro pump and call it a day!

 

this it ???



line looks good and spraying carb cleaner all over the place showed no signs of a vac. leak...

could you actually see it was collapsed or was it collapsed INSIDE ??? im a bike tech and sometimes the old rubber brake lines fail inside and will shut themselves off (NO BRAKES) .. look fine on the outside but bad inside....
thanks