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Old 11-19-2014, 06:24 PM
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One headlight bright, one dim.

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Old 05-19-2010, 08:17 PM
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One headlight bright, one dim.

Hey everyone
This has been a problem for awhile, my pass. side headlight has gotten really dim and as a result the driver headlight has gotten really bright. I cleaned the connector up as it had some white corrosion on it but it didnt seem to help. I can move it sometimes and it will come back bright but it doesnt last long. So the question is can I do anything with what I have or do I need a new connector or pigtail?
Thanks
Drew
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:54 PM
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Have same thing going on with the '03 250 I just bought, I was going to buy some new bulbs and see if it was something as simple as that...maybe it's a different problem now seeing this.
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:02 PM
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Try these steps below IF you have already attempted to put new bulbs or switch bulbs on each side. This will let you know if its the connectors or the wiring corrosion.

1. Attach a test light lead to good ground source (test light)

2. Go to rear of the headlight, you may have to remove the headlight or locate the wiring harness that feeds the headlight.

3. Turn the headlights to the on position, regular mode, not high beam (do not start the engine). Using the test light probe the headlight electrical connector. Two out of three terminals on the connector will cause the test light to illuminate.

4. Remove the electrical connector from the headlight. With the headlights still "on" test the electrical connector, one of the two that had power will still have power. The terminal that had power before the headlight connector was removed and now does not is the problem. This wire/connection is the "ground" circuit for the headlight.

5. This ground completes the electrical circuit. The reason the headlight is dim is because the full voltage cannot be delivered to the headlight filament. Clean or reconnect the ground circuit wire to a new ground source and recheck headlight operation.
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 11Bravo
Have same thing going on with the '03 250 I just bought, I was going to buy some new bulbs and see if it was something as simple as that...maybe it's a different problem now seeing this.
Yeah I thought the same thing thats why I tried swapping them, but of course nothings that simple. haha
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by scottzj
Try these steps below IF you have already attempted to put new bulbs or switch bulbs on each side. This will let you know if its the connectors or the wiring corrosion.

1. Attach a test light lead to good ground source (test light)

2. Go to rear of the headlight, you may have to remove the headlight or locate the wiring harness that feeds the headlight.

3. Turn the headlights to the on position, regular mode, not high beam (do not start the engine). Using the test light probe the headlight electrical connector. Two out of three terminals on the connector will cause the test light to illuminate.

4. Remove the electrical connector from the headlight. With the headlights still "on" test the electrical connector, one of the two that had power will still have power. The terminal that had power before the headlight connector was removed and now does not is the problem. This wire/connection is the "ground" circuit for the headlight.

5. This ground completes the electrical circuit. The reason the headlight is dim is because the full voltage cannot be delivered to the headlight filament. Clean or reconnect the ground circuit wire to a new ground source and recheck headlight operation.
Will try this tomorrow, thanks for the post.
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:14 PM
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Yup, check those grounds, especially if the high-beam acts the same way.

Pop
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:21 PM
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Just found this post through doing some searching...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...em-solved.html
 
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:17 PM
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Dim headlight fix, alternator, battery, ground 2003 Ford Escape

2003 Ford Escape 200k miles, a new headlight relay fixed the issue but read the details for Ford Escape electrical issues

I have a 2003 ford escape with 200k and recently had to replace the alternator as the batter light was on constanltly but it never died. After the alternator one light was dim after driving 300 miles. So I figured it was the battery as it appeared to be charging but low voltage while running 13.6 volts. So I put in a new battery and the charge dropped to 12.1 volts. No this does not make sense. So I pulled the alternator, 2 hour job on an escape and brought it to Autozone to be tested. It tested bad so I put in a new one and also added a ground between the battery ground and the block. The headlight was still dim until I put in a new headlight relay.

My guess is that the BAD battery and a bad ground killed 2 alternators and the headlight relay. First issues I had had in 200k so no complaints.

One thing I found while researching is the ability to turn your mile counter into a volt meter. Put the key in and turn it so the truck has power but do not start. hold down the mileage counter reset until it beeps twice. and a word appears. Let go of the button and start the truck. press the button like 20 times until BAT appears. it is now a voltmeter until you shut it off. you can also set it to tach and a bunch of other test options.

Enjoy!
 
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