Ok.. So I have a 96 351 in my 87 bronco.. Since it's becoming an off road only toy I want to strip everything I don't need on it... I'm talking about everything.. Every single wire not needed. Stuff like the AC pump wiring and what not... Also all the smog stuff needs to come off as well..

I want the bare minimum to keep it running with EFI.. So basically the injectors, coil and distributor.

I know there are plenty of people out there that say to leave everything on there and what not, I do not want to and though I value your opinion, comments about it are not needed..

So basically if everyone can help me decide what needs to stay to just basically run the motor I'd appreciate it..

For example. I know I'm going to taking out the wiring for the AC and getting an EGR eliminator in the harness.

Also vacuum lines.. I guess I won't know until I pull everything out.. I know I need 1 for the brake booster and 1 goes to the MAP sensor.. Everything else seems to go to the smog stuff..

I'll be pulling the engine this weekend to do a Rear main seal and a body swap so it would be the perfect time to do what needs to be done.. (I know I need to buy an EGR block off plate and a tube delete bolt, but with more people thinking about it then just myself I'd appreciate it.

Anyhow.. thanks all
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So will you be removing the power steering pump?

The air injection tubes that go to the back of the heads can be unbolted, and the holes they cover will be found to have 5/8-NC threads in them. Plug them with Allen set screws with some antiseize applied. You may need to use a small wire brush or tap to clean the carbon off the threads enough to start the screws.

If you won't have PS, you can get rid of the two big castings on the front of the engine that hold all the accessories. An early alternator with its simple, light brackets can be installed, a forward rotation water pump swapped in, and then a simple V-belt or serpentine belt can be put over the three pulleys (water pump, crankshaft and alternator).

A Duraspark distributor compatible with the 1987 Bronco can be installed, after swapping the camshaft gear over from the 96 engine. This may be the simpler installation.

 

So are you putting a carb on this or maintaining EFI, and if it's going to be EFI are you using the '96 vesion or the '87 version.

 

Off-road only. OK, is this on your own property? You'll never be transporting it over a highway? Never drive it on state or federal land? You looked into that? Off-road vehicles must be registered also, and I doubt they will give you a "Green sticker" for a Bronco.

You are asking for a bunch of work and driveability issues for no gain at all, plus possible legal hassles. Research this and rethink it.

Section 38390, page 100 in particular:

http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/pages/1140/f...sbook-2008.pdf

 

No I want to keep the EFI.. Hence why the post is here.. If it

Sorry I should have mentioned I plan on keeping the PS. I am already running this motor in the 87 bronco.. have been for years.. So swapping anything over is not needed..

I'm doing a body swap and will be taking both titles down to the CHP office and having the registration converted over to a 1969 F250 body.... I have researched this and am going to the local DMV/CHP office because there might be an issue with smog still.. However if that's the case I will go for an even older truck body until I don't have to worry about smog equipment.. I know people who have done this all legal and proper and it is doable.

If that's not good enough I can do this.

So I can get a green sticker for any vehicle I want..

Not sure how you want your post to sound, but it seems like you are trying to be one of the negative people that are pro emission stuff.. While I understand where you're coming from you won't win this battle/argument.

If you didn't mean it to sound like that then please ignore the last statement.

With me driving this thing 1 weekend every few months my footprint is nothing.. Plus California is now going to start making me smog my F250 diesel and my motorcycle next year.. So they can shove it with my 4x4 toy.. I'm doing it legit and making it so I don't have to smog it anymore.

 

The whole air injection system can go.. air pump, valves and plumbing, and the vacuum lines from the TAB and TAD solenoids to the diverter valves, but to prevent CE codes the TAB and TAD solenoids much remain electrically connected. If you want/need to retain a cat for emissions purposes I suggest using a Magnaflow or Bassini Y pipe with integrated cat, these things flow much better than the stock cats and don't require an air line, and they will pass sniffer tests too. The EGR can be deleted but you may still get a code even with an eliminator plug, if you want to avoid that the best solution is to simply leave it connected and operational. And that's it, all other sensors are needed for proper engine operation so there really isn't any more you can remove.

 

Conanski.. Thanks for the input!

I believe there are TAB and TAD eliminator kits that will fool the ECU to think they are there.. As well as EGR eliminator kits..

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to be moving the CEL to the new body.. Like I stated before my bronco body is being changed to a 69 F250 body.. I haven't decided if I'm going to swap the CEL. So if there is a code I won't see it.. (Unless I periodically scan the truck)

I basically want a bare bones 351 with EFI.. I know I could ditch it all and go carb but I want to keep the EFI.

 

It's your truck and you can do what you want.... but I wonder just what it is that you think you can gain by eliminating the emissions components? EGR for example only improves part throttle performance, and doesn't hurt wot performance. In my mind, the only reason to eliminate it would be running a bigger intake that doesn't have a provision for it. If you're planning on running a stock motor, why not keep it stock? If not, run a stand alone efi system.

 

I plan on buying headers and a bigger intake.. Headers to begin with.. some have provision for the EGR and some don't..

Stand alone efi is an idea.. Depends on much it is.. Right now I'm going 1 step at a time but am laying the ground work for the future..

 

EGR provisions will be in the intake manifold- The Edelbrock peformer 5.8 has them. not sure who else makes a performance manifold for the fuel injected 5.8 (without going to a stand alone). The provisions in the headers would be for air injection (smog pump). Seems to me, that if your not going whole hog with a performance build, that it would be easier to keep the stuff that works right. By all means get rid of the cat if it doesn't see any street use, but why spend money on stuff that tricks the computer when you already have the real thing there for free. EGR is inoperative at WOT so it has no effect on total horsepower, and your smog pump probably takes less than 2 hp to run. Not to mention that it will be a headache to make all the substitutes work.

Of course all this only matters if you care about living with a check engine light. If you don't mind checking codes periodically like you just mentioned, plug or pinch all the lines and hoses, run the v belt setup and have fun.

Bottom line- Elininating the smog pump makes for a complicated belt setup (unless the mustang smog pump eliminators will work on a 5.8), Elinimating EGR gives you an MIL possibly even with the plug in eliminator plug. Based on your goals for this build, it doesn't seem to like you get anything out of either one, so what's the point?

 

That's what I've been thinking.. Might just leave everything the way it is.. Haven't fully decided.. Trying to get the feel for everything..

Plus I'm really looking into getting the Mass air to work.. Not sure if I'll need that egr stuff and what not for it.. I just need the ecu and harness now.. =)