And could someone explain the diagnostic process that they're using and an estimate time it would take to run (in event my bill is more than the $70 diagnostic fee I've been told)? Thanks.

 

This is one option for the intank kit mentioned. ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit

Riffraff may offer this kit also. I did not search for that one.

The hutch & harpoon is cutting the filler tube that extends way into the tank making fillups take a lot longer. You do that when installing the above mentioned kit.

 

Wow - you guys know your stuff. That's exactly what they said - they need to replace the entire sending unit cause they didn't come in sections. On the phone before I left to head to the shop, they told me it if I decided to go with just the diagnosis (after they definitely pushed for the sending unit for about a grand) that they've already put about 3 hours into it and to be honest $140 sounded about fair. I told them we'd talk about it when I stopped by. It ended up only being about $78 bucks after tax (which is 78 more than I should have paid, but still MUCH less than I could have if I didn't consult you guys).

Now - a few follow up questions. I finally got to read through Guzzle's in-tank hutch mod followed by reading the harpoon mod. I think I'll probably try to lift the bed - since I have a front end loader from a tractor. Before I can start, I'd like to make sure that I have all the bed bolts removed. Does anyone know how many there are?

Ok - once the mesh filter is removed on the bottom of the sending unit, you have to use a new filter set up. There are smaller in-line filters and larger screw on filters. What is the advantage and when is either necessary? Can I get a link to a full inline setup (looks like DI's site just has the fittings for the setup... Diesel Innovations - Products Could someone explain that a little more to me? Thanks in advance for all the wonderful help on this issue and for saving me so much money!

 

That's B.S. Here's the link to the sender prices on Parts Guy Ed's website.

I recently installed the ITP Diesel intank/pre-pump filter kit. I can't link to it because their site is down. I highly recommend it. Guzzle even says on his site that you can't really get the parts together for what one of the popular kits costs.

Removing the bed can be easy or it can be a real cast iron bear, depending on how much salt your truck has seen in its life. I just did it. It was pretty easy on a Florida truck. Remove the 8 bed bolts using some combination of PB Blaster, heat and muscle. Remove the three little bolts from underneath the filler cap that attach to the flange on the filler nozzle. Crawl underneath and disconnect the two tail light harnesses just above the rear bumper. Bed will lift right off.

 

I'm at 350 miles on my tank, and I'm still showing 3/4 of a tank (took until about 250 before the needle even budged) - what would affect my gauge being off? I have the short bed version, and I think my tank is only supposed to hold 29 (maybe 30) gallons? Could that be related to the sending unit issue? Remember - I ran out of fuel still showing 1/4 of a tank. Just trying to see if there may be anything I need to do to fix it while I'm in my tank doing the hutch / harpoon mod this weekend. Thanks in advance.

 

IDM PROBLEM
I have a F-250 Super Duty, Crew Cab, 4-Door, 4x4, 7.3lt turbo Power Stroke, done 205,000 Kms. (125,000 miles)
I have had a number of problems with the IDM since new, I have replaced it 5 times now. It seems to have voltage coming out of the casing, when I take it off the body and earthing, it runs fine. I get a number codes regularly, 0380 glow plugs, 1316 IDM, 1211 ICP above/ below. I believe something else is causing this problem, has anyone got a suggestions.