93 Explorer AC question
I d/n have the itemized list of work. I feel you need to get some honest bids or procedures if you plan to do the work. I felt I wanted to stay with 12 but the 134-A has worked well. With my past experience with 12, I would have done the job but I had no experience with 134-A except “reading” they require slightly different services. I hope this helps!
JOW
-A full set of orings for the hose fittings. Your old seals are all 17 years old and counting. One of them has already failed, so...
-A new accumulator. It's a wear item and at 17 years it needs to be replaced.
-About 10 ounces of mineral oil. With a major repair like this, the system will need to be flushed and new oil added back to get the correct amount. (listed on the AC tag under the hood)
-The proper amount of R12. I'm guessing about 40 ounces. (Listed on the AC tag under the hood.
-Access to, and a bit of guidance to use, a vacuum pump and manifold gaige set. This is so that you can properly evacuate and charge the system.
If you want to convert to R134a, you'll need all of the above except you will substitute Polyol Ester oil and R134a refrigerant. You'll also need a set of conversion service fittings.
That's the basics of properly repairing an old system. There's actually a bit more to it if there are other issues besides low refrigerant, but not a lot. On a 17 year old system, there's more to it than just evacuating and charging the refrigerant.
Everything said above is basically correct except
1: If you have lost all the pressure in the old system, you will need to replace the accumulator. The accumulator has a dry material that absorbs water. The oil used with R-134 is not compatible with the old R-12 dryer and and will cause it to release any moisture it has trapped, resulting in compressor failure within a year or two.
2: You cannot reliably add refrigerant based upon the posted capacities. You need a manifold gauge set to monitor the pressures and function of the system. When you reach a certain target pressure, the system is filled.
3: You need a pressure matched switch for the refrigerant you are using. You can adjust the old switch, but if you do not know what you are doing you can get poor performance or damage the compressor.
A conversion is not for the faint of hart. The conversion kits are a mechanics best friend when it comes to AC systems. First you install the kit yourself, which screws up the system, so the pros get to fix your system for hundreds more than if you let them handle it in the first place. Once you know what is involved, you don't buy the conversion kits.
Everything said above is basically correct except
1: If you have lost all the pressure in the old system, you will need to replace the accumulator. The accumulator has a dry material that absorbs water. The oil used with R-134 is not compatible with the old R-12 dryer and and will cause it to release any moisture it has trapped, resulting in compressor failure within a year or two.
2: You cannot reliably add refrigerant based upon the posted capacities. You need a manifold gauge set to monitor the pressures and function of the system. When you reach a certain target pressure, the system is filled.
3: You need a pressure matched switch for the refrigerant you are using. You can adjust the old switch, but if you do not know what you are doing you can get poor performance or damage the compressor.
A conversion is not for the faint of hart. The conversion kits are a mechanics best friend when it comes to AC systems. First you install the kit yourself, which screws up the system, so the pros get to fix your system for hundreds more than if you let them handle it in the first place. Once you know what is involved, you don't buy the conversion kits.
I was just outlining the basics because i was really tired tonight and the question was vague.





