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Read all the threads, including SUBFORD's excellent manual excerpts with ohm readings from the servo. Everyone of them checked out good for me. However, got an issue still.
All break lights work.
Master Cylinder Switch recall complete, and works.
New servo
Still no Speed Control. Everything seems to work great except that button that turns the damned thing on.
Checking between the wires indicated I got perfect readings on my multimeter for every button, unfortunately there was no, ON test.
What could I be missing?
Speedo works great, never even seen the rabs light.RABS? Rear Anti-Lock Brake System?
Curious though, the wiring diagrams show the PCM going into pin 8 on the amp/servo harness on one sheet while Pin 2 is the brake pressure switch from the end of the master cylinder, but the other shows the pcm going into pin 2.
I have always thought it was something in the Speed Sensor
Speedo works great, never even seen the rabs light.RABS? Rear Anti-Lock Brake System?
Yes the yellow Rear Anti-Lock Brake System light on the dash.
Originally Posted by Scinner
I have always thought it was something in the Speed Sensor
If the Speedometer works great and the Yellow Rear Anti-Lock Brake System light on the dash is not on the then Speed Sensor is OK.
Originally Posted by Scinner
Curious though, the wiring diagrams show the PCM going into pin 8 on the amp/servo harness on one sheet while Pin 2 is the brake pressure switch from the end of the master cylinder, but the other shows the pcm going into pin 2.
OK, everything seems to be correct.
One thing I dont see and cant find on my truck, an indicator light on the dash. Am I just plain stupid, or is there not one? I thought about checking that bulb, when I seen the posts regarding stop lights, and then it hit me, there isnt one. WTF? Perhaps my dash panel had been replaced by the previous owner and they put a different one in? Could that affect it? I know the amplifier receives it signal from the PSOM, so maybe that return is missing as well if its a different panel....
Also, I dont have just Rear ABS, but 4 wheel ABS, hence the only dash light is ABS, however, it works fine. Light come on at start up like every vehicle, then clears out immediately. Does that mean i still have a separate RABS module?
ok checked ac voltage between 3 and 10 on amp harness. i seen 6mv in park and watched it fluctuate as i drove down the driveway. current speed is getting to the amp. switch signals getting to amp. 12v on p7 when key is on. im out of ideas!
got it!!!! Pin 9 should have 12v normally, and that was my problem
the mc switch is good, 12v getting through that harness and eerything, however, somewhere in the loom is an open. I fed a wire from the switch return, as not to actaully bypass the switch, and then cruised around at 35 mph with everything working great!!
That wiring diagram is what did it for me.
OK, everything seems to be correct.
One thing I dont see and cant find on my truck, an indicator light on the dash. Am I just plain stupid, or is there not one? I thought about checking that bulb, when I seen the posts regarding stop lights, and then it hit me, there isnt one. WTF? Perhaps my dash panel had been replaced by the previous owner and they put a different one in? Could that affect it? I know the amplifier receives it signal from the PSOM, so maybe that return is missing as well if its a different panel....
The standard cluster on the 1992-1996 F-150/350 does not have a Speed Control light on the dash.
Originally Posted by Scinner
Also, I dont have just Rear ABS, but 4 wheel ABS, hence the only dash light is ABS, however, it works fine. Light come on at start up like every vehicle, then clears out immediately. Does that mean i still have a separate RABS module?
You have the first truck I have heard of that has 4 wheel ABS in the F-series 1992-1995 range. None of the manuals show this either. But it is common on Vans.
Do you have front wheel sensors?
If not you do not have 4 wheel ABS.
Originally Posted by Scinner
got it!!!! Pin 9 should have 12v normally, and that was my problem
the mc switch is good, 12v getting through that harness and eerything, however, somewhere in the loom is an open. I fed a wire from the switch return, as not to actaully bypass the switch, and then cruised around at 35 mph with everything working great!!
That wiring diagram is what did it for me.
Glad you got it fixed and thanks for posting the outcome.
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