replacing front axle shaft u-joint
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 249
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From: Ont Canada
replacing front axle shaft u-joint
Does anyone have a link to a step by step how to replace the front axle shaft ujoints? I've been using 4x4 a bit lately and there so bad I can barely turn the wheel before they bind up really bad..
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250AxleUJoints.htm
Lots of pictures. Check out the ball joint write-up that guy did if you need more pics and directions.
Those joints were impossible for me to push out w/o bringing them into Ford to use a big hydraulic press.
Lots of pictures. Check out the ball joint write-up that guy did if you need more pics and directions.
Those joints were impossible for me to push out w/o bringing them into Ford to use a big hydraulic press.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Here's the Ball Joint thread that'll show you how to get the axles out: http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250BallJoints.htm
I recommend doing your inner axle seals while you're at it. I didn't and they leaked the second I reinstalled my axle shafts. I've been told it's common by a reputable drivetrain shop here.
I recommend doing your inner axle seals while you're at it. I didn't and they leaked the second I reinstalled my axle shafts. I've been told it's common by a reputable drivetrain shop here.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
You can make a seal driver with a 1ft piece of pipe, a pipe cap and flange for cheap. Run a search for homemade seal driver. You'll have to do a bit of grinding on the flange. I used a sander to get the face of the flange flat and checked it on our anvil. It worked great. Or you could buy an OTC specific seal driver.
I don't like how the write-up says to use the driver to drive the axle back into the knuckle. I prefer tapping it in with said driver and using the hub bolts to pull it in. The first time I drove it in per the write-ups and it went in too far. I had to use a pry bar on the back of the axle u-joint flanges to pry it out to install the retainer clip on the axle. PITA... The second time around I did it the way I described and had zero retainer clip installation issues. Everything lined up perfectly.
I don't like how the write-up says to use the driver to drive the axle back into the knuckle. I prefer tapping it in with said driver and using the hub bolts to pull it in. The first time I drove it in per the write-ups and it went in too far. I had to use a pry bar on the back of the axle u-joint flanges to pry it out to install the retainer clip on the axle. PITA... The second time around I did it the way I described and had zero retainer clip installation issues. Everything lined up perfectly.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
I know I've dug this up from the depths but,
So I dug this up by searching and read through the write up it's a very good, read up on how to replace the ball joints in the U joint in the front end my question is once you get the caliper off and the rotor why could you not just take the four bolts off the back of the wheel bearing hub assembly and pull the whole assembly out together connected to the driveshaft and just replace the new joint if that was the end goal?
Thanks
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
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From: Asheville-where weird is
The caliper mounting bracket has to be removed also to remove the rotor.
Next, unless I am mistaken, you could theoretically remove everything in one unit the way that you describe. However, having the added bulk of the hub unit bearing attached to the stub shaft would make it a pain in the rear to secure during u-joint removal whether you do it yourself or pay someone. I would be willing to bet that a shop would want it removed.
Then, upon reassembly, you'd be fighting the hub seal alignment, alignment of the 4 bolts on the HUB, and the weight of the stub shaft and wheel shaft. The passenger side would be significantly heavier due to shaft length. Also, you want to avoid allowing the alignment splines on the shaft from coming into contact with the debris in the tube upon reassembly.
Why do you want to do it that way when it is so easy to simply pull the two apart? If the u-joints are bad, then you also want to inspect the bearing surface on the stub shaft. That surface has likely been damaged too and the only way to inspect that is to separate the two.
Next, unless I am mistaken, you could theoretically remove everything in one unit the way that you describe. However, having the added bulk of the hub unit bearing attached to the stub shaft would make it a pain in the rear to secure during u-joint removal whether you do it yourself or pay someone. I would be willing to bet that a shop would want it removed.
Then, upon reassembly, you'd be fighting the hub seal alignment, alignment of the 4 bolts on the HUB, and the weight of the stub shaft and wheel shaft. The passenger side would be significantly heavier due to shaft length. Also, you want to avoid allowing the alignment splines on the shaft from coming into contact with the debris in the tube upon reassembly.
Why do you want to do it that way when it is so easy to simply pull the two apart? If the u-joints are bad, then you also want to inspect the bearing surface on the stub shaft. That surface has likely been damaged too and the only way to inspect that is to separate the two.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
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I know I've dug this up from the depths but,
If you think it sounds like I don't know what I'm doing then obviously your right. Lol I think I've decided that my truck has a Dana 50 front axle (1991 ext can f250 7.3 idi)what are all wearable parts could be damaged and need replaced if I'm only looking to replace the U joint itself. Also all the different u joins with slightly different dimensions how do I figure out which one I need can anybody give me a specific Dana Spicer U joint model number
thanks all in advance
thanks all in advance
Last edited by quinnbozz; Jul 14, 2017 at 05:26 PM. Reason: Duplicate post
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 31
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Jhl3
Thanks for the feedback that's kind of what I assumed I was just trying to make it easier and less probability of damaging things such as seals I only have to replace the driver side u joint because I snapped it.!the passenger side is just fine
just trying to minimize downtime
Thanks for the feedback that's kind of what I assumed I was just trying to make it easier and less probability of damaging things such as seals I only have to replace the driver side u joint because I snapped it.!the passenger side is just fine
just trying to minimize downtime
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
Quinn... if you have a 91 truck, you're dealing with a different front axle than what is being discussed in this 99-03 section.
You have a twin traction beam front axle, not a unit bearing D50.
You will have a different procedure for replacing the ujoints in your truck. You'll need to remove caliper and take wheel bearing nuts off, remove rotor and hub to expose the spindle. Then 5 nuts and you'll need to pull or pound the spindle off the knuckle. Then axle shaft comes out drivers side. Pass side is the same, but you'll be taking the clamp off the inner ujoint boot, and pull it out after. Then if you need to replace the inner ujoints, you'll need to take differential out to get the retaining clip out.
You have a twin traction beam front axle, not a unit bearing D50.
You will have a different procedure for replacing the ujoints in your truck. You'll need to remove caliper and take wheel bearing nuts off, remove rotor and hub to expose the spindle. Then 5 nuts and you'll need to pull or pound the spindle off the knuckle. Then axle shaft comes out drivers side. Pass side is the same, but you'll be taking the clamp off the inner ujoint boot, and pull it out after. Then if you need to replace the inner ujoints, you'll need to take differential out to get the retaining clip out.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 31
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lol I knew something didn't seem right
again I'm not touching the passenger side I'm only going to change out do you joint behind the front driver side wheel, I snapped it this Spring. I didn't realize it at the time but I was crawling under the truck the other day and noticed. And realized I knew exactly when I did it
I've put superchargers on, done suspension lifts, but never actually touched drivetrain before
before this I had a 6.0 and there is plentiful information on those but this is new to me and I'm finding a big info gap from the 87 F250s to the power stroke era 87-93 I just don't think I'm looking in the right spots
again I'm not touching the passenger side I'm only going to change out do you joint behind the front driver side wheel, I snapped it this Spring. I didn't realize it at the time but I was crawling under the truck the other day and noticed. And realized I knew exactly when I did it
I've put superchargers on, done suspension lifts, but never actually touched drivetrain before
before this I had a 6.0 and there is plentiful information on those but this is new to me and I'm finding a big info gap from the 87 F250s to the power stroke era 87-93 I just don't think I'm looking in the right spots
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
Quinn... if you have a 91 truck, you're dealing with a different front axle than what is being discussed in this 99-03 section.
You have a twin traction beam front axle, not a unit bearing D50.
You will have a different procedure for replacing the ujoints in your truck. You'll need to remove caliper and take wheel bearing nuts off, remove rotor and hub to expose the spindle. Then 5 nuts and you'll need to pull or pound the spindle off the knuckle. Then axle shaft comes out drivers side. Pass side is the same, but you'll be taking the clamp off the inner ujoint boot, and pull it out after. Then if you need to replace the inner ujoints, you'll need to take differential out to get the retaining clip out.
You have a twin traction beam front axle, not a unit bearing D50.
You will have a different procedure for replacing the ujoints in your truck. You'll need to remove caliper and take wheel bearing nuts off, remove rotor and hub to expose the spindle. Then 5 nuts and you'll need to pull or pound the spindle off the knuckle. Then axle shaft comes out drivers side. Pass side is the same, but you'll be taking the clamp off the inner ujoint boot, and pull it out after. Then if you need to replace the inner ujoints, you'll need to take differential out to get the retaining clip out.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
A lot of people don't have balljoint presses, which is crazy... Harbor freight has a decent one for cheap, and gets you out of a bind
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
Early 99 got the straight axle back in the F250, and they all had unit bearings.
87-93 was a 7.3, non turbo, and around 92 or so, there was an option for idi turbo 7.3, but it wasn't the powerstroke yet.
There is a lot of info in this forum, lots of diehard ISO guys here. Go back to the diesel section, and jump into the correct group.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
This is the idi diesel section you want. All the engine info you'll ever need.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum117/
This is the truck section you need. 87-97 trucks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum28/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum117/
This is the truck section you need. 87-97 trucks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum28/