Tired of going down the road with the steering wheel going all over the place, truck has been alighned twice in the last six months and has newer tires, was told the steering box was known to go bad and needs replaced about every 100,000 miles, I have brand new ball joints, and what is the best way to change out the steering gear box?

 

Get a pitman arm puller from Harbor Freight, a few cans of Liquid Wrench, 2-3 bottles of Type F ATF, an inline filter with 5/16 or 3/8 nipples, and a good reman box, and just swap it. Put the filter in the low-pressure hose (the one with the little spring clamp) next to the reservoir.

 

Would I be able to just rent a pitman arm puller from Autozone?, never heard of harbor freight.

 

I got mine form Advance or Autozone, one of them. However, it never came off. I broke two 1/2 inch drive breaker bars (one craftsman, one Husky) and no dice. So I put it back to gether for the week til I could get back to it, and apparently the output shaft connection was just loose. Its just as good as new. So I returned the $250 reman pump and 6 months later its still smooth and play free. BTW, it was a 97 2WD.

 

There's an adjustment screw with locknut on top of the box. I'd tighten that down little by little first (like 1/4 turn at a time) and see if it helps your condition.

 

That would help, but not much. If you overtighten it'll break it. It's a temp helper until you get a new box. Much better off just replacing it. I'm going to replace mine in the spring time, mine is the same way. Tightened the nut and it's still really loose and I don't dare tighten it anymore. I probably could but, if I break the box now than i gotta try to fix it in 3-4 degree weather, no thanks. Where's a good place to get a reman box?

 

I had a lot of wandering in the steering of my 91 E350 with 173000 miles, tires were new, all components tight. We tightened the steering box screw 1/2 turn and it made a tremendous difference, took out almost all the play. I will go another 1/8 turn.
It took 2 people to adjust the screw because of the vans limited access. One person with a wrench below to loosen the nut, and one above to keep track of the screw position.
My front end mechanic was reluctant to try it, but I was ready to replace the box if I had to, he was impressed with the results.
Alan P

 

Advanced and Autozone priced me one for 135.00, the dealer was around 200.00 and that was with my discount. Remember when you get dealer parts for any vehicle get the list price first and then ask for the preffered customer discount, will save you from 30 to 50 percent off the price. Any good dealer will give you that discount.

 

Already tightned down the box, no good results. My steering box is done.

 

I'm not sure what steering gear you are talking about since there are several different types. I have about 1"-2" of play in the steering before any turning starts to engage. I have a 76 F250 with a power steering linkage system with the piston-type cylinder assisting the steering linkage rather than the preferred Integral power steering box. Is this the same as yours? There is no adjustment screw on these gears that I'm aware of. Integral-type and manual worm roller type gears do.
I was wondering if mine is shot too! Doesn't seem to be any play in the u-joints in the steering shaft or anything. Linkage seems tight but the steering shaft will rotate a good 1 1/2" of free play. Mine does not wonder on the road but the free play sucks.
Any help would be appreciated

 

Also check the tie rods before replacing the steering box.

 

Cougar, help me out here. You couldn't get the giant bolt out of the output shaft, correct? This bolt holds the splined end of the putman arm on. Mine probably requires an 1-1/2" wrench. The splined end of your pitman arm was loose on the shaft, correct?

I took my truck to a tire store today and they said nothing was wrong with it. My tires had 45 psi when I bought it and they are dished. On a smooth road it drives fine, but if there a groove or a seam in the road, or if it is windy it wanders. Everything but the steering gear looks tight. Could it be my tires? The freeway to work has 4 very narrow lanes and everyone drives like a maniac. When I'm next to another older Ford truck I get nervous.

I tightened the steering gear adjustment up until it wouldn't return to center and the damn thing still wandered, but it was difficult to make corrections.

BTW one of my 2 mostly worthless manuals mentions that the steering gear mounting bolts can come loose and they should be checked.

I believe most steering gears have a backlash adjustment and a thrust adjustment. Mine only has a backlash adjustment. Hence the need for replacment instead of adjustment.

94 F150 4x4 302 SB

 

Cupping in the tires when the alignment is correct is due to over-inflation. 45psi is to much, back it down to 35 or so. When the tire is over-inflated the middle wears faster, resulting in cupping. Do the chalk trick, take a piece of chalk and make a line across all 4 tires about an inch wide. Make sure the truck is already on dry flat pavement. Then drive the truck slowly so the line is driven over a few times. Stop and inspect. If the chalk is rubbed significantly in the middle, you are over inflated and need to drop down a few psi. If you are under inflated, the rubbing marks would be on the outsides of the tire. You want that chalk line to be rubbed off evenly across the tread. You might want to run it a little under inflated to make up for the cupping but not too much. Whenever you put extra weight (towing/hauling) pump up the tires.

 

Trying to get a pitman arm off without air tools? Lotsa luck.
Some pitmans are indexed to go on 4 different ways so make sure to mark it when you take it off. Provided you can, of course.

 

My buddy has a 79F150 and with a little help he said it wasn't to bad to change out, nothing broke on him and he used no air tools. He will be over in a week to help me change mine out. Thanx for all the input.