Hi Gents,

Your pal Philo back here to quiz your minds about some more things regarding my newly acquired 1966 Ford F100.

I just brought it home -- and now I will have some time this weekend for its initial TLC.

First off, my neighbor and fellow classic F100 (1963) owner advised me to go to the local carwash and use the tire/engine degreaser mode to attack the built up oil and muck on the engine. He said to make sure and cover the air filter and/or distributor to prevent fluid from getting in the electronics. And to be careful where I aimed the spray gun. Does this sound like a good idea to you guys?

Next, I thought I would do some cosmetic work and treat the inside cab area. I was thinking to use a little Armor All or STP on the dashboard and seats to protect it. On the headliner, too. Any tips or warnings there?

I'll probably go down below the steering column and begin to learn the wires and what they go to, and try to clean them up a bit with some zip ties. It's a rats nest right now.

What else ... oh yeah -- I need to replace the headlight dimmer switch. He said it's a bit corroded or something, and the button alternates between low beams and OFF, rather than low beams and high beams. Anyone know a good source/site to order those?

Also need to hit up DMV tomorrow and apply for my Oregon plates.

Any other ideas on initial love? Oh yeah, I'll probably load her up with a yard of dirt from the garden that I'm taking out. I have been told that these 1/2 tons are TRUE 1/2 tons (unlike the newer models?) and can haul their advised weight. Is there any check I should make of the suspension before loading her up?

One last thing -- since these can HAUL a 1/2 ton, does that mean they can TOW a 1/2 ton? It has a trailer hitch and my friend asked, but I wasn't sure ...

Thanks guys!

 

COTZ13A024A .. Dimmer Switch (Motorcraft SW263).

Fits a gazillion cars/trucks from 1960 into the 1990's, every parts store should have it.

Whoever told you these trucks are true half tons, doesn't know diddly.

The truck weighs about 3800 lbs. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 5,000 lbs.

The difference between the actual weight of the truck and the GVWR (1200 lbs.) is what Ford said the truck was safe to carry.

While some ppl here on FTE will disagree on how much you can haul or tow, this is what Ford had printed on the Warranty Plate.

WARRANTY VOID IF MAX GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT IS EXCEEDED.

These trucks have terrible brakes for today's traffic. Back then, most ppl didn't drive any faster than 55, so the 11" x 2" front drum brakes and 11" x 1 3/4" rear brakes were adequate.

Today, it's a different story.

btw: Since you are a you prolly aren't aware that I bought a 1965 F100 brand new in March 1965 and sold it in November 2009.

So...when I say the drum brakes aren't worth squat, I ain't just a whistlin' Dixie.

I'm not aware that STP offers vinyl treatment.

Originally, STP (Specially Treated Petroleum [ppl called it Studebaker Tickled Pink or Super Tiger P!ss]) was/is a next to worthless oil treatment with a consistancy of cold molasses you poured in the engine.

Make sure you don't use this type of STP on the dash.

 

Ha ha ha Wow, my Newbie-ness is really showing here, isn't it?! :-)

I'm not sure what I'm mixing STP up with ... but no, I won't put that on the dash! Are contemporary dash treatments okay on the old interiors, such as mine?

Thanks for all the great information on braking and GVWR, Bill. I'm learning a lot! I'll keep it slow and steady if I add even more weight to it. I'll take back roads all the way to the sand and gravel place.

And thanks for that part number!!!

 

On the headliner...if it has little 'spots' where it looks like moisture may have dripped onto it from the inside cab roof...theres not much you can do about it...The other possibility...is ughh...vermin of the beady eyed and long tailed kind...Pull the headliner down...carefully...it can be done by one man, but if you do have a second pair...like a kid or wife...use them as assts. remove the center screw first...hold the headliner up as you remove the screws throughout as it is easily broken...the section weighs around 5-7 lbs give or take.
remove the aluminum side trim if its there carefully paying attention to what is possibly trying to fall out of there. undo the screws from front to rear leaving the center screw in each side till the last...take them both out while holding it in place...once all screws are out lower it down and see how many guests you had up there...Cover the heater ducts and speaker grille on the dash...the mess left by vermin reeks bad as you may or may not know. just take it out and use a wisk broom on the backside(facing the roof) and give a light light washing to the face side...dont scrub with any kind of brush or rub alot with a rag...use plain water...I would use lukewarm as the heat will help it flash off without the headliner getting soaking wet. If you can, put it near a heat source to dry it out if its not halfways warm outside.
Then you can tear into the cleaning of the cab and so on. If you did have lots of crap of whatever kind in the headliner area...you can bet the heater ducts prolly have some too...simply unclamp and carefully slide the ducts off of the heater box and blow them through ...dont use compressed air...just use your lungs
If your truck is a Custom Cab, chances are it has the Deluxe heater...there will be an accordion flex duct at the RH end...same thing...unclamp and slide to the left as much as you can...it wont got too much...but you..or your lil helpers fingers can feel inside for crud whatever there may be.
Lastly, both floor vents are MAJOR crap traps...open them up and reach down...they are a huge area and typically full...they go all the way to the bottom of the floor...there is a drain in there more then amply big enough...except most dont know its there and neglect this area thus thus kick panels rust out on the inside as evidenced by a vertical cancer line or weakness on the inside of one or both sides. Grab the gunk...there will be enough to fill a typical household bucket most likely...what you cant pull up...you can push down and out through the drain...you can easily see it if you poke your head under that area of the truck.
Another possible area for crap is on the topside of the glovebox liner...open the glovebox door and smack the inside top of it and see what falls out of the area...When I took my beast out of storage several years ago I had vermin souveniers in all of those areas...except the vents as I cleaned them out ages ago...
After all of this is done.. clean it up as usual...dash pad...armorall is fine...STP vinyl care stuff isnt as good. Wash it good though with warm damp rag and let dry thoroughly before armoralling it. Look under the seat as well...if you want to pull it out...the bolts are 1/2" as I recall and the ends are visible from underside...wirebrush and hit with some WD40 to flush the dirt and crap away...
As for the engine compartment cleaning...bring a can of WD40...if it wont start after power washing...pop off the distributor cap and wipe the moisture out and see if it will start...if not, give a light shot of WD40 inside the cap...basicly a mist.
Be careful around the wiring areas and the firewall as water may damage connections or leak into the cab. Main area is where the choke cable and speedo cable go through...as well as the heater hose connection area if the foam squares are not there...make sure they are pushed back as far as possible if they are there.



Dont douche the area under the battery or the same area on the other side as water will sit in the core support and rust it out if its not already rotten...that can be seen from looking low on grill area below h/lights near where it meets the bumper filler panel as well as inside the wheel wells inboard of where the fender brace bolts to the core support to the frame.




I know this is alot...but it will give ya plenty to do...especially if the weather is nice:-)


If you need anything...feel free to ask away :-)

- cs65

 

Another place on the motor you want to watch with the pressure washer is the gasket between the intake and the top of the block on the front. It is usually a strip of cork and its over a foot long, sometimes just the vacuum the motor makes will suck them in, I can only wonder what 20,000 psi would do to it. Rich

 

Philo, you probably thinking of STP brand Son of a Gun vinyl treatment (like Armorall). I haven't seen that stuff in years..

 

Philo, I guess since that ol warranty ran out over 40 years ago you need not be really concerned about voiding it. lol

You should be able to safely haul 2-3 tons in the bed without a lot of worries.

Be sure your tires are inflated to max when you do.

The photo below is of my truck with close to 7 half tons on the hitch.


John

 

Also check the level of the differential gear lube and transmission fluid before starting your 'work bee'....

BarnieTrk

 

You should be able to safely haul 2-3 tons in the bed without a lot of worries.

SAFELY haul 4000 to 6000 pounds in the bed of a 1/2 ton = FALSE

The photo below is of my truck with close to 7 half tons on the hitch.

Generously giving 5000 pounds for the Truck and 2000 pounds for the trailer = 3.5 tons.

Not trying to pick on you.....but this not correct.

Greg

 

Greg,
I wasn't even going to touch that statement. But, as you point out, unless the truck is full of lead bars, the combined wgt of the truck and trailer is more likely to weigh in the neighborhood of 3.5 tons. Which is the TOTAL WEIGHT being pulled by the hitch -- NOT the weight ON the truck hitch.

If the trailered truck has no cargo and is centered on the trailer correctly, the trailer tongue weight ON THE TRUCK HITCH is likely less than 1,000 lbs.
BarnieTrk

Mission accomplished, John. -- You managed to awaken all the sleeping dogs on the porch!

 

OK, So Who died and left you in charge, of what can be hauled in Ford trucks.

Mine aint no sissy she truck, my boy will work. I use my truck, if I say it can it will.

I did make an error, I should have wrote 2 to 3 thousand pounds rather than tons.

If you think my truck won't haul it bring your butt to Creedmoor, we'll load it up and put you on top and ride you down Main St.



John

 

Greg, The truck weighs about 3800lbs, the total weigh of that photo was 10,520lbs. Do you know what 7 half tons weighs? [somewhere in the neighborhood of 7000lbs] if you are still counting your toes.

My bad, 2-3 tons should have been 2-3 thousand pounds.



John

 

John,
I still won't suggest to Philo or anyone else that they can SAFETY load up & haul 2,000 to 3,000 lbs of cargo in the box of their 2wd, '66 F100;
for the reasons I stated earlier.

Who besides you, John, weighs stuff in increments of 'HALF-TONS ...or is that a Creedmoor thing?

BarnieTrk

 

You have been hanging with ND too long you are starting to look like him posting.

As screwed up and broke as Michigan is right now, I wouldn't be poking fun at anyone elses heritage.

I was just checking your smarts, and see what happened?????

Again; If I say a truck will do it, it will, because mine has.


John

 

John I'm glad you use your your truck, and enjoy doing so.

I think most of us here with some years behind us, that are do it yourselfers, (is that a word?) have had a home project come up and overloaded our trucks.

I think the biggest issue here is that the OP not disillusioned that he has a heavy hauler and get into trouble.

For the OP
One cubic yard of gravel 3x3x3 with fines in it, weighs in the neigborhood of 3200 pounds. A little bit of gravel or dirt is very heavy.

You can haul twice as much and not ruin the suspension and axle bearings on the truck by using a trailer like the car trailer in Johns photo (WITH BRAKES) Dump a 5 thousand pound pile of gravel on it and be on your way.

Course we all gotta run what we brung

Greg