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Tensioner Won't Budge. Help?

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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #1  
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Tensioner Won't Budge. Help?

so i finally got around to buying a new belt and tensioner from Advance auto from this previous thread..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8744125

well, i tried to get the tensioner off but it just will not budge. what a pain to get the ratchet int here!, using a pipe attached to it, i just cant get it loose to get the belt off.

what can i do?

to replace the tentioner, do i have to remove the fan, radiator and plastic surrounds?? or is it possible to do it all with everything in place? is there enough room to get the bolts out?

i'm suppose to rotate the the wrench towards the fan, then push in the silver tab below, right? it just wont budge.

any advice?
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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When I did mine I removed the plastic shrouds... The tensioner puts a lot of tension on the belt. I can't imagine how you would ever get the belt back on without removing the plastic shrouds...

I recommend you do the following:

1. disconnect the transmission lines from the lower rad

2. disconnect all hose connections to the rad

3. remove the radiator support brackets up top.

4. remove the radiator by pulling it out up top.

5. remove the fan and stator assembly (note you need a large adjustable wrench to remove the fan clutch assembly.

At this point you have clear access to the belt system. It may be possible to do it with out removing the shrouds but how much time are you going to waste trying...
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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I did mine the first time in less than a hour with only removing the top small portion of the shroud that cover the belt by the alternator. That gave me plenty of room. There is no reason to remove all the other stuff.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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^ did you just replace the belt or belt and tensioner??
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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I have the dual alternator set up and had to take one tensioner off to get to the other one, I could have easily got it off also. You wont believe how much room removing the little shroud will give you. Like I said, less than an hour and I have the dual setup.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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what exactly is the shroud? the little flap that is near the alternator that it attached by some tabs?
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 11:04 AM
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Yes, take it off and you will be surprised, If you dont have the dual set up, you will have way more room than I did and I was impressed.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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You can r&r tensioner without taking anything off in an hour. And if you have the rachet it the square peg in the front of the tensioner (by the pully) then you need to rotate it up toward the battery. I changed my tentioner with out taking the belt off when I did it. Just unbolt the old one and then take it out. Make sure the new one is locked by the tab when you put it on then you won't have any trouble putting the belt on. If all that makes since.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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On secound thougt I thnk I'm wrong on the direction the pully rotates. Look at the new one and you should tell. But I did change mine with out with removing anything.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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Interesting... The only time I was ever in there I had already had both shrouds removed...
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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what year is the truck? the only thing i had to take off to change the ( double tensioner) and the belt was the top shroud that is just clipped on... took a guy on the floor and me on the top to change it... but its easy.
 
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Old May 13, 2010 | 06:31 AM
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Ford just did mine. OUCH!

The local dealer just replaced my belt and tensioner when I was in for 90K service. The tensioner was locked-up tight. $521.43 for parts and labor. I told the wife to just kick me next time I mention paying someone to work on my truck.
2003 6.0 CC DRW
 
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Old May 13, 2010 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Haymanwolf
The local dealer just replaced my belt and tensioner when I was in for 90K service. The tensioner was locked-up tight. $521.43 for parts and labor. I told the wife to just kick me next time I mention paying someone to work on my truck.
2003 6.0 CC DRW
If you don't know what you are doing you are also paying for someones knowledge and work space which doesn't come cheap. Rather than beat up the dealer, do some homework next time and weigh your options. The only possible mistake made here was yours. No flame just pointing out the facts.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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From: rockville, md
update

so i finally got around to fixing the tensioner and belt.i was really nervous about doing it since i didnt want to have to remove the radiator. well, i just removed the clip on shroud, then the tensioner using a craftsman 10mm ratcheting wrench. i then put the new one on. remember to have the middle bolt in place when sliding it down, when the middle bolt was int he hole, i grabbed the top blt and fed it through and finger tighten it, the tighted everything down. well, i wasnt to keep the old belt on, but it just seems too lose so i took it off. by my self, i weaved it through everything. i must have had to go from top of truck to under it 100 times but i cant belive i actually snaked it through. actually wasnt bad and if i were to do it again, i'm sure i could do this is half the time. took me a total of 2 hours by myself. another hard part was to let the clip go ont he new tensioner, pulling upon the belt did nothing and trying to use a ratchet on the tentioner did nothing as well. fed up, i slid a mini crow bar through the belt and on top of the alternator for leverage and pulled up. bingo. clip came out. nice tight belt. squeel gone.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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good job stupidjet
 
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