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I am in the process of rebuilding my 1986 F250 HD, and one of the items that requires updating is the brake lines. Have any of you purchased the pre-formed stainless steel set from LMC Truck? If you have what is your impression of quality and fitment? Do you think it would be a better idea to purchase the termination tools and fabricating my own lines?
Thanks in advance for your help.
You can use the universal lines from the parts stores as an option too. That's what I always use. You have to splice it at least once going to the rear, but that's ok because it's easier to snake it over and through the crossmembers.
Stainless sounds nice, but I have never used them before.
Thanks for the reply. I still haven't decided which way I will go yet. I like the idea of buying the tools and doing it all myself, but then I will have many hundreds of $ of tools that I will probably never use again and my money tree has not yet started producing.
The tools to flare and bend your own lines are not that expensive. I use the off brand benders they have hanging on the shelf, and they work well. You can also bend it by hand if you have large radius bends, or as you are installing it, you find you need to tweak it here and there. If you want a tight 90 bend, you will need the bender.
I also use the off brand double flare tool they sell also. It doesn't work as well as a name brand, but it will work. Double flaring lines takes a little practice. If you have one that you need to cut and flare, cut it long and practice a few times to get it right so you won't ruin your line.
The lines you usually need to flare are the ones with the oddball flare nut sizes. These are located going into the master cylinder and sometimes the proportioning valve. All the lines on the rearend and crossing over to the front end can be run with the universal lines.
I'm not sure what brand of stainless line LMC sells. I have used inline tube before and they usually fit pretty good, sometimes you have to bend them a little to get them where you want them, and stainless does not bend easily, so I like the prebent setup. It is a little pricey, but I feel it's worth it as you only have to run lines once vs. the standard steel will most likely be replaced several times in the life of the vehicle. They also make stainless braided flex lines for the front and rear so you don't have to worry about anymore cracked rubber hoses.
Creating SS brake lines is not easy, It takes a quality flaring tool.
If you want easy to work with yet get good weather protection use the powder coated brake lines available at your favorite performance warehouse. (Jegs, Summit or the like)
It is copper/zinc and regular low cost flaring tools will work.
My favorite brake line bender is just a simple mandrel bender made from round bar with 4 grooves, one for each tubing size.
TIP: If your flaring tools anvil won't grab the tubing and it slips as you flare, use a c-clamp to assist the anvils grip on the tubing.
I've been around Pipe Fitters all my working life. Forming SS lines takes knowledge, experience and good tools. I'd stick with the kits if I needed SS lines, otherwise I'd use regular steel lines. If the steel lines needed to be protected from the elements, there are easy ways to accomplish that.
Nice thread as I am going through the same thing. But I had a line burst today as I moved my F350 for the first time in 2 years. The line along the frame is leaking in 2 places. At this point I am more looking for a speedy replacement than a learning experience as this will be my temp daily driver in a few days.
Are there any places that carry just the frame line? I checked LMC but they only sell the whole kits for over $200 and they don't have lines for the brake system I have. Mine has the load adjuster contraption above the differential that controls the rear brakes.
Thanks for all of the info guys. Still not sure which way I will go, but if the inside of the lines is anywhere as bad as the outside, I too will have a blowout.
let me know how you make out. on my recently bought 86 i see quite a few rust spots and have several spots that need to be replaced along with the master cylinder. $155 for new lines is probably be a good deal but only a fraction of that and some patch pipes from pep girls could solve my issues just as easy i think.
Thankes for the input guys, I have decided to try the in-line stainless lines. My long term plans are to pass this restoration to my son, so I am thinking that the stainless will be a better long term choice (thinking of many years). I will pass along my experiences about fitness and quality as I experience them.