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Ok by now many of you have already done this. I am doing mine in about a week. New Black onyx gaskets, arp studs, egr delete, new oil cooler, coolant filter, oil cooler bypass kit for added protection, s and b intake, new turbo drain tube and a stainless steel hight pressure oil pump screen. Question who can point me to some good pics of step by step procedures. I have a DVD service manual but some items it says to remove not quite sure. while I am at it if anyone has any suggestions I am open to them
Why aren't you using the factory gaskets? Why/how are you bypassing the oil cooler if you're deleting the egr cooler? Why are you replacing the factory intake?
There are no threads on here that I know of that will walk you through all of this. Do a search on EGR deletes and there are a few threads on it might be one in the tech folder too.
Are you pulling the motor or lifting the cab? Honestly if you don't know how to do most of that stuff on your own you don't really have any business doing it. Not being a dick or anything, but it's an expensive motor and there is a lot that could go wrong.
I found a kit at MKM customs and have read good reviews on the Black onyx. I am using an AMSOIL cap kit to create a small air cooled oil cooler. I am not deleting the stock one. I am not replacing the factory intake manifold
Really the biggest difference between the black onyx and the stock gaskets is how much sealant there is. The black onyx it's all over the place, whereis the stock one it's just around the edges and the cylinders.
Be pretty precise with your installation though with those gaskets. You can "fudge" a little bit more with the stock gaskets, but having all that extra sealant on the onyx, you need to make sure everything is just so-so in order to have a good seal.
Regardless of what type of gasket you are using, make sure the heads and block mating surfaces are flat. You must measure them in many different spots to be sure. If you are out more than a couple of thousandths, you need to get them machined by a reputable shop. When the heads go back on the block, follow the stud manufacturers installation instructions, using the factory torque sequence. It's just like any other motor, just not as tolerant to letting little things go.. "Close enough" and 6.0's don't seem to go well with each other.
I would like to communicate directly with you as I just visited a local shop to have these things done to my 04. See my post. They want 6795.00 to do essentially the same job. The guy contends the factory finish on the head surface is not smooth enough?? They aparently have the head surface machined to a high gloss to make the fitment precise. I want to do this so I can safely install a chip and for longevity. Stated, if you do these things, your engine will be bulit proof.
I would like to communicate directly with you as I just visited a local shop to have these things done to my 04. See my post. They want 6795.00 to do essentially the same job. The guy contends the factory finish on the head surface is not smooth enough?? They aparently have the head surface machined to a high gloss to make the fitment precise. I want to do this so I can safely install a chip and for longevity. Stated, if you do these things, your engine will be bulit proof.
Make him put it in writing with a money back guarantee and I GUARANTEE he won't stand behind them. He'll feed you the biggest used car sales pitch you ever heard.
It's not that the factory machine surface isn't smooth enough, it's that the heads warp and unseal the gaskets. They can only be machined .008" IF they haven't been done before. Anymore and you're taking a chance on valve to piston contact. IMHO there's no such thing as a "chipped" bulletproof 6.0 with much more than the stock programming UNLESS you don't ever drive it. More reliable absolutely, but bulletproof??? Not just truing up the heads. If that was the case there would be a whole BUNCH of bulletproof 6.0's running down the highway pushing 600+ ponies, belching black smoke, and giving Pelosi a heart attack.
IMHO there's no such thing as a "chipped" bulletproof 6.0 with much more than the stock programming UNLESS you don't ever drive it. .
A 6.0 that is not driven will also break. lot rot is an issue.
IMO any DB that will tell you to machine the heads till they are like mirrors should be avoided. That person knows nothing about machining and rms patterns.
any head/deck/block that is mirror smooth will not hold a gasket.
All the above are machined with patterns that are called RMS. that pattern is basicly there to help retain the gasket in place.
A 6.0 that is not driven will also break. lot rot is an issue.
IMO any DB that will tell you to machine the heads till they are like mirrors should be avoided. That person knows nothing about machining and rms patterns.
any head/deck/block that is mirror smooth will not hold a gasket.
All the above are machined with patterns that are called RMS. that pattern is basicly there to help retain the gasket in place.
I am using an AMSOIL cap kit to create a small air cooled oil cooler.
This sounds like a very bad idea. Those caps work for a bypass filter because the filter restricts flow and you don't lose much volume through them. The cooler won't restrict much and you'll lose a lot of volume through the cooler, possibly preventing enough oil pressure from being built up.
Oil cooler bypass was an Idea. I agree once I replace stock cooler and add coolant filter I should be good to go. I am also replacing all the injector seals. Or should I. Can you remove the head with the injectors and glow plugs installed. The dealer is telling me I need to remove them. Also he says never never mill 6.0 heads. just better to replace them. Any thoughts.
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