Pulling Motor
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 64
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Pulling Motor
just started workin on a new project, bought a 51 ford f2. 239 flathead and me and a few buddies were disconnecting everything getting ready to pull the motor and coouldnt find an easy way to disconnect the shifter from the tranny, it is the last thing i have to do. anyone got any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hi Welcome to FTE.
I'm not 100% on this, but I think you are supposed to pull the engine out without the transmission, and pull the transmission out through the hole in the cab floor board (there's a large opening with a cover plate there that will give youaccess to the shift) shift and all. You would disconnect the stick.
We will need a little more info: is this a 3 speed heavy duty or a four speed transmission - I'm assuming floor shift - not column
Here are pictures of both shifters. Note the difference in shift handle cone height and number of shafts as a quick reference used to distinguish the two transmissions.
I'm not 100% on this, but I think you are supposed to pull the engine out without the transmission, and pull the transmission out through the hole in the cab floor board (there's a large opening with a cover plate there that will give youaccess to the shift) shift and all. You would disconnect the stick.
We will need a little more info: is this a 3 speed heavy duty or a four speed transmission - I'm assuming floor shift - not column
Here are pictures of both shifters. Note the difference in shift handle cone height and number of shafts as a quick reference used to distinguish the two transmissions.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Yes. Disconnect the transmission from the engine and pull them out seperately - engine out the front, transmission out of the cab.
The procedure is described in the 49-51 (with 52 Suppliment) Ford Truck Shop Manual. Which I know you bought to refer to having saved all that money on the truck.
Oh? Don't have one? I'd get one - and soon!
Here they are on e-bay:
Manuals Literature, buy and sell Parts Accessories, Aviation on eBay Motors
Be sure it says "With 52 Suppliment" on the cover. The "Original" printing only went to 51 (as listings 6 and 9 show)
The procedure is described in the 49-51 (with 52 Suppliment) Ford Truck Shop Manual. Which I know you bought to refer to having saved all that money on the truck.
Oh? Don't have one? I'd get one - and soon!
Here they are on e-bay:
Manuals Literature, buy and sell Parts Accessories, Aviation on eBay Motors
Be sure it says "With 52 Suppliment" on the cover. The "Original" printing only went to 51 (as listings 6 and 9 show)
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 2
From: springfield il
look at the pic julie posted . you see that roll pin goes in at the base ??? you knock it out and a nut around the base of the shifter there ( no. 7228 ) and it will pull straight out . no muss no fuss . but in all honesty considering the weight of the flatty , and i know i have one in my 53 , one in the 52 customline , and had several others out of the cars in and out of here !! , and the weight of that t98 in my 53 ( like 145 pounds i think ) , i'd pull the shifter , then seperate the trans and flatty . it'll save your back and your lift will thank you ...................
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,342
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From: Jamestown, IN
Well I have never been able to successfully been able to pull a 4 speed out the cab. Also I just thought of this Its a wacky idea, but to be 100% sure that nobody can hotwire your f1 and steal it just take the nut off the bottom of the shifter and take the shifter with ya! can you see someone with a shifter in their pocket as a key?? I have had the nuts come loose on the shifters before and come out while moving. That is a surprise!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,295
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Are you by any chance pulling the engine and trans to put different ones in? If so, and you are going to remove the trans crossmember in one peice (by removing the rivets) I'd be interested in the crossmember. Maybe in the engine, too. Where are you?
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im rebuilding the whole flathead. ok im gonna sound really stupid but...... this is MY first rebuild, i have done multiple rebuilds mainly on DSM's with friends such as an eclipse, laser, stealth vr4, all of them AWD turbos, then i had a great idea of buying this truck. lol. we are pulling the motor out of it tomarrow and i plan on to a full on rebuild/restore to OEM specs, i did buy the book btw but i didnt get it in time for earlier in the day. if anyone has any tips feel free to PM me i have a feeling ill be on here alot first ford, dont let me down, if it works out it will be replacing my daily driver 04 chevy impala , thanks guys
first ford, dont let me down, if it works out it will be replacing my daily driver 04 chevy impala , thanks guys
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2010
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btw im into SPL competitions, thats another story, is the acoustics in ure panels good??? i might be looking into one of those to put my spare 18 inch fi btls in i got two sitting around and i need a huge box lol.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
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From: springfield il
don't let anyone tell you a flathead is unreliable . i drove mine every day in all conditions including severe heat . she never failed other than a bad coil , to get me where i was going . the only reason she's been down is bad wiring , rewire , and i need to replace the valve springs . they are forgiving critters too . i used mine and abused it and she gave 100 percent period . no excuses . you'll be happy , just don't expect 400 horse and be fast . that isn't gonna happen . as far as rebuilding or working on them well .... find a machine shop that knows what the hades they are doing with a flatty ! i had a guy who bought my spare ones , early ones , as the local know it alls at tim wilkersons machine shop f-ed his up by putting a stud through a water jacket then told him it was like that ......... my favorite saying is that they are briggs and strattons experimental 8 cylinder high performance 8 cylinder mower motor ................. they are that simple . go with an electronic ignition too . big difference and no points to play with .
p.s where in this corn patch are you at . got a few of us in the springpatch and peoria area here .............
p.s where in this corn patch are you at . got a few of us in the springpatch and peoria area here .............
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Glad to hear you're staying with the stock drivetrain! Take a good look at the internals, it may not need a full rebuild. Lots of flathead advice here: Ford Flathead V8 .. 1932 thru 1953 • Index page
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Junior User
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ure from the Peoria area???? holy crap im in washington about 10 min out of peoria. ! if u have any tips or know any place to go that knows what they are doing. i know im going to need my heads hot tanked as there is rust inside them . its not too bad and is fixable but gotta get it done. i dont expect full on rebuild thats why i only purchase minimal stuff at this point. once i pull the motor and were start disassemblimg i will know exactly what im lookin at. ill post tonight giving some details. if u want pics ill take a few too???
also i need to replace the ignition system anyways just because that needs to be done to even start the truck as i lost the key somewhere when i bought it go figure...... links on the ignition system would be much appreciated .
also i need to replace the ignition system anyways just because that needs to be done to even start the truck as i lost the key somewhere when i bought it go figure...... links on the ignition system would be much appreciated .
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,776
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From: springfield il
nope im from springfield . jeff and nichole are from up yer way , and i believe we got one more guy up there somewhere . try looking at : reds headers and speed equipment for fords , speedway , flathead jack , summit { by engine not year } jegs , the hot rod company , mooneyes , schneider and isky cams , procomp has ignition systems , totally stainless , h&h aka flatheads forever , just to name a few . bring your own towel for wiping up the drool ...... 
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Gunbarrel, Co.
I pulled my engine and transmission out as one unit. The shifter is pretty straight forward just remove the transmission access cover. With the cover removed the tranny is now accessible. In the diagram that Julie supplied the round cover is threaded with a normal right-hand thread, remove and now you have access to the small pin. Once removed your good to go.