I went out and changed the oil in the ol 66 today. And on the general consensus of ZDDP being advantageous ( or at the very least not harmful ) she is now filled with about five quarts of Chevron Delo 400 ( 15 w 40 ) and a Fram Filter. Took longer than expected tho, as I was sidetracked tracking down and drying up a power-steering leak and a small radiator leak stemming form an overly loose drain valve ( and the incipient triple checking everything that goes on when something bad is found.)

While I was at it replaced the air filter too ( man was that in bad shape....)

Next up - plugs and wires.

Aaron

 

power steering..... wow, must be nice!!

 

I would kill for some of that power steering................

 

yeah, my truck has "armstrong" power steering....

but back to the oil thing...anyone have experience with Lucas Break-in oil additive?

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/600/639/639-10063.jpg

Since I already changed my oil, before the zinc comments started. I need to add it. The local shop, whom I usually trust, recommended the Lucas additive.

What do you guys think of that product?

They also recommended an "oil flush" product, you put in just before oil change, run engine for 5 min, then drain oil. it's supposed to clean sludge out??? I guess I can try it next oil change. Any thoughts on those "cleaning" products?


Thanks all

 

Too Cool!
-- I believe '66 was the first year PS was offered in the F100-F250 (4x2).
Those Ford PS pumps had a distinctive fill cap that looked like a radiator cap with an attached fluid level indicator stick.
Whereas, the '67-'72 fill caps were the smaller 3/4" diameter simple push/pull style fill cap.

BarnieTrk

 

If its been setting for a long time or is an older engine that recived straight oil its whole life a cleaner may do some good.

I personaly use half a can of seafoam. A older alternative is a pint or so of diesel in the oil.

This does work. It tends to dislodege and disolve the gunk that builds up in oil passages. It can end up clogging a passage though.

This is my method with seafoam,

The evening before the oil change I run the engine up to operating temp. I add half a can of seafoam to the oil and the other half to the fuel. I run it for a about 5 and then shut it off and go inside for the night. The next day I fire her up and drive her around for about half an hour making sure she gets to operating temp.

I go home and change the oil. I have found chunks of tar to come out of an otherwise fine engine. I figure leaving the engien sit overnight with the seafoam against the sludgy stuff helps disolve and loosen it. The half hour drive should hopefuly flush it away.

I use 10W-30 rottela as break in oil with the additive comp recommends. Lucas makes a great oil stabalizer but that is all I know.

 

I asked my friend who is a professional engine builder about those oil flush products and he said don't do it unless you are going to drop the oil pan afterwards. He said all the gunk and sludge that breaks loose will wind up in the oil pick up and clog it up. I trust his judgement, so I never did it. It makes good sense when you think about it.

 

From Lucus' website :

"Addition of 16 oz. to 4.5 quarts motor oil will achieve approximately 5,000 ppm of Zinc."

Where's the Phosphorus???? From what I have read, you need both as they bond together for the protection we are looking for.....

 

Redbeard,
Haha,, "Armstrong steering" -- My '65 F100 is the same way - Just make sure all of the front end steering linkage joints and the top & bottom kinpin grease fittings get a couple shots of greased every month or so and it'll loosen up.

I'd only use the break-in oil additive if I was going to fire up a freshly rebuilt engine, but not as a standard practice with an oil change.

I have read many different opinions on it, but I'll admit that I do use LUCAS Oil Additive ( Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer - Lucas engine oil additive ) with my 15W-40 motor oil in my 390 engine. I like the way it makes my motor oil a tad thicker & stickier and I think reduces "a dry start condition" when I start the engine after it has sat for a few days.

I wouldn't recommend using a cleaning product. Just as Flipklos mentioned, some of the cleaners can break chunks loose.... Personally, I don't want CHUNKS OF CRUD breaking loose inside my engine with the potential to plug up an oil passage, a pushrod, a hydraulic lifter, etc. If you are concerned of your engine being 'too dirty' inside, I'd just suggest you change your oil/filter more often (every 2K miles?) until you figure it had been slowly - but adequately - flushed clean.

Do you have a working oil pressure gauge in your truck?
How much pressure does the gauge read once you start the engine cold at 1,000 rpms?
How much pressure after the engine has warmed up at 1,000 rpms?
How much pressure with a warm engine at 3,500 rpms?

BarnieTrk

 

Excessive amounts of anything (including zinc) in your engine do not help you. It is actually the phosphorus in ZDDP that provides the anti-wear protection. Phosphorus levels over 1400 ppm lead to increased engine deposits and levels over 2000 ppm lead to camshaft spalling. That's why, even the most potent CI-4/SL HDEOs never had more than 1400 ppm of P and most have ~1200 ppm.

ACCCC recommends the use of dual rated HDEO in older, flat tappet engines and against the use of additional additives. An API-certified engine oil is already formulated with the correct blend of additives and should not be "improved".

 

Click on the HDEO link. That is finaly a piece of information that makes good sense.

 

Fraso,
What a great bunch of info at the ACCCC link!
I'll be going back there to do some more reading, I'm sure!

Anyone with the desire to read more on the zinc / phosphorous subject, should go to the HDEO link site and then click on the download (lower left corner) entitled, " ESSO: Flat Tappet Engine Wear". Very interesting!

BarnieTrk

 

Just read that link. They also go into how 10-30W HDEO would be better than the 15-40W HDEO for most gasoline engines. That would be even more so for you guys in colder climates than me. Now just try to find 10-30W oil. I just called two independent auto places, skipped the chains, and they don't carry that weight and are not even sure their distributors carry that weight at a decent price. Was told that every body who comes in is looking for oil for their diesel. I then asked if true why does Chevron have a Delo 0-30, 5-30 and 10-30 if everybody wants 15-40?

 

A 0W or 5W base weight is important in -40 temps in a truck that serves in Alaska or Canada.

I can get 10W-30 Delo or Rotella at my local parts store. The local industrial oil distributor will get you whatever oil of any weight if you ask for it. Check under LUBRICANTS in your yellow pages.

15W-40 is fine in the summer up here. I run 10W-30 year round however.

 

In a HDEO, a 0W-30 or 5W-30 generally means that you're getting a synthetic oil. A synthetic 0W-30 will maintain its viscosity better at high temperatures than a 10W-30 dino oil because it has a high viscosity index so there is no need to restrict its use to frigid temperatures.

Chevron Delo 400 0W-30 is available at Chevron dealers. American Lubricants in Buffalo, NY was selling a 12 quart case for US$79.35 last year. It's not stocked but could easily be ordered. I like Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-30 because it's a Group IV (PAO) oil but it's not readily available in the USA.