On my maiden voyage with the 92 F350 IDI 30 miles into the trip the overdrive light starting falshing Shifts in and out of overdrive but seemed like it was shifting hard.

Code reader is telling me its Code 62 "tranaxle problem - 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit failed closed, or, convertor clutch failure". Not sure what the first is but I know the second is not good for my wallet. I have read these electronic controlled transmissions are touchy when it comes to electrical contacts.

My rear tail lights, turn signals and trailer lights are functioning. What else should I be checking before I send it off to a mechanic (who is no doubt going to tell me I need the transmission rebuild)? thanks fellas

 

Im not sure if this applies to you, but my tach quit working and the OD light started flashing and the tranny went into "limp" mode. I replaced the sensor and now all is well.

Does your tach work?

 

Just ran outside and the rpm gauge is working, all the gauges are working in fact. thanks though

 

Oh well, it was worth a shot. I know if any of the sensors start malfunctioning it will go into limp mode.

 

Any other responses would be helpful, thanks

 

check the vss(vehicle speed sensor) on top of rear diff, if contacts get dirty or loose it can do some weird s**t to your trans. Also if you have cruise control those circuits give feedback to your trans and can give you fits. hope this helps

 

Code 62 is the converter clutch slipping. Sometimes its a sensor feedback issue but often its also an internal failure of the converter clutch piston, friction element or regulating valves that control lockup.

What can you tell us about the history of the truck?

Is this a factory orignial transmission or a rebuild?
How many miles are on the transmission?

 

This is a little off topic, but where is the transmission control module located. I have a '92 cab that had a manual trans in it when I got it and there's a boxabout1" thick , 4" wide and 6" long with a 14 pin connector coming out one end. P/N F2TF-2C018-AA A. It was located on the passenger side bejind the kick pad. Any ideas?

Thanks,
GeneO

 

Just bought the truck in early Feb, it has 110,000 miles on it and was used as a rescue vehicle by a local township than was a daily driver. It likely is the original transmission but I can not be sure. It seems to shift smoothly (when not not in "limp mode") but it is hard for me to judge based upon my limited amount driving the vehicle. The one thing that concerns me is when I sightly press the accelator pedal it makes a low groaning noise, it does that again at 55-60 miles a hour. Not sure if its anything

 

Unfortunately my best guess right now is that your torque converter is on its way out. Unless the vehicle has been babied and rarely used to tow anything, they generally don't last much longer than 100k miles. The first 5 years of the E4OD (first available in 1989 model year) was wrought with problems like this and the torque converter is often what would fail first. Sometimes the internal blades would even come apart and take the transmission with it.

The fact that your code scan didn't reveal any sensor faults and that your cluster gauges read correctly leads me to believe that its probably a fault with the converter itself or a valve in the front pump that controls converter lockup.

 

David you nailed it, just got the word from the transmission shop, I need to rebuild it, lots of metal in the oil when they dropped the pan. Family friend owns the business so I tend to trust them.

Now is there anything I should request to be upgrade when I have it rebuilt, I will be towing a 6k # boat.

 

Crap, I hate being right about those things. Sounds like your are in good hands at the shop you chose though.

As a bare minimum, I would get an upgraded torque converter that has 2 or 3 lockup clutches (4 clutch is available but not needed and you pay a premium for them). Most aftermarket converters these days will have converter blades that are welded or furnace brazed so an "exploded" converter isn't a problem anymore. They should also have an upgraded apply piston for the lockup clutch that uses a thicker casting that won't crack as easily as the original. Basically there are 2 things that can cause a code 62 with the original converters. Slipping clutch from worn out friction elements, or a cracked piston that can't hold enough pressure to keep the clutch locked to the hub. You could also go for a billet front cover on the converter, but shouldn't be needed unless you want to turbocharge it eventually. If you can afford it, I would get a billet converter, but its not mandatory.

If this is indeed a factory original 1992 model transmission, I would strongly advise a roller bearing center support upgrade. It replaces a wear prone bushing as the center support bearing with an actual ball bearing. Its a very common upgrade (OEM from 1993/94 and up) and the shop will know about it.

Go with the biggest transmission cooler you can find.

The front seal of the transmission can be replaced with an upgraded "blue" seal that has higher temperature resistance and less prone to leak if you run it hot for some reason. This is an inexpensive upgrade so that alone is reason enough for me.

Less essential upgrades would be:

1995 model year pump that has more fluid capacity for faster engagement, more cooler flow, and better lubrication flow. There is an anti-drainback valve in the pump that is originally plastic and should be replaced with a metal one. Sometimes the plastic one will melt and restrict flow in a high temperature situation.

There are also upgrade kits made by TransGo and Sonnax that have lots of goodies in them like upgraded snap rings, steel valves, and mildly upgraded shift profiles to firm up shifting thus reducing clutch wear. Just a mild shift kit is all you want, nothing aggressive to break traction or snap your head back.

You can also upgrade the geartrain from aluminum carrier planetaries to steel carrier planetary gears. Steel basically turns it into a superduty transmission. For overdrive, you will end up with a 4 pinion, and for forward (1st, 2nd and 3rd) you will end up with a 6 pinion. Reverse is also available in a 6 pinion steel. This is going overboard now, but I mention it anyway so you can decide what you want. Looking on Ebay, its about $100 for each planetary upgrade which is already more than a master overhaul kit by itself.

Overdrive E4OD 4R100 FORD/LINCOLN STEEL OD PLANET KIT on eBay.ca (item 8075009783 end time 22-May-10 21:20:57 EDT)

Forward E4OD 4R100 6 PINION STEEL HEAVY DUTY FRONT PLANET KIT on eBay.ca (item 350278062900 end time 10-May-10 20:54:53 EDT)

Huh, used to be able to get the 6 pinion for $60.....

And the reverse: C6 E4OD 4R100 NEW 6-PINION 12 LUG STEEL REAR PLANET on eBay.ca (item 250007022954 end time 21-May-10 13:59:29 EDT)

 

Fantastic info David.
Thanks,
GeneO

 

old wires can be a factor with the e4od and will flash the lite, like old wires to the tps called something else now plus adjustment of tps.

 

David - Excellent info thats what I was looking for, I will pass your recommendations by the trans shop. Thanks a bunch!!