300 Fuel Econ tips
I've got a '94 with the EFI big-six. I've taken care of all of the usual things to improve economy, i.e., plugs, wires, filters, tire air pressure, etc. I'm curious whether anyone can recommend anything specific to the 300 I might be overlooking.
Also: where's the redline on this thing? The tach goes to six but I've rarely explored the space above 3k, as it sounds like I'm about to eject a piston into low orbit.
Thanks,
JG
'94 F150 reg-cab shortbox 4x4, EFI 300 i6, Mazda gearbox, 125K.
I've got a '94 with the EFI big-six. I've taken care of all of the usual things to improve economy, i.e., plugs, wires, filters, tire air pressure, etc. I'm curious whether anyone can recommend anything specific to the 300 I might be overlooking.
Also: where's the redline on this thing? The tach goes to six but I've rarely explored the space above 3k, as it sounds like I'm about to eject a piston into low orbit.
Thanks,
JG
'94 F150 reg-cab shortbox 4x4, EFI 300 i6, Mazda gearbox, 125K.
You could run over 3000 RPMs all day, I've done it.
also for better MPG use gas with no ethenol. its trash and gives bad MPG i dont kno y they put it in other than to make more money. (as would be expected greedy america)
I have heard that synthetic oils will help MPG. Engine, tranny, and rear end. Haven't noticed any difference in my Toyota truck runnning synthetic engine oil. I hardly ever drive the same roads for an entire tank, so its hard to tell. plus i switched this winter, and its hard to compare winter MPG"S to summer MPG"S.
also for better MPG use gas with no ethenol. its trash and gives bad MPG i dont kno y they put it in other than to make more money. (as would be expected greedy america)
I've even heard of 10-15% less fuel economy
I drive like a granny, shortshifting that torquey 300.
I will try a synthetic blend at the next oil change. I usually change between 2,500 and 3,000 — any thoughts on that? I run my tires at 35 front 41 rear as per the doorjam sticker.
7,000? Zooks. Short of pulling a 6,000 lbs car hauler through the mountains I've never needed more than 3,300 up and then back down grades, but I'm always nervous. I just returned from a roadtrip to Iowa and running 2,800 the whole way down the interstate had me sweating, too; glad to know that won't hurt anything.
When I changed plugs and wires about a month ago I noticed there was a lot of corrosion on the coil end of the coil-distributor connection. Sanding that down, along with the plugs and wires, seems to have made a big difference, maybe as much as 1.5mpg. (Haven't driven enough to nail down a firm figure yet.) Seems to have restored a bit of low end and eased the idle.
Definitely keep an eye out for non-ethanol. A place here specifically advertises it and I noticed quite a jump after I filled up there. 10-15% is a lot of an econ difference.
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My numbers may be off a little (?), but this is shocking!!
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Definitely keep an eye out for non-ethanol. A place here specifically advertises it and I noticed quite a jump after I filled up there. 10-15% is a lot of an econ difference.
However, there are guys on this site and the other one, who routinely buzz their engines up to 7K, and one up to 9k!! But there is an abyiss between us and them, between our engines and their 300's, and the only thing that can bridge that canyon is truck loads of green backs.
(I was looking at a bitchen roaster at the swap meet. The guy started it for me, and was buzzing it to unbelievable rpm right there. When I about flipped out, he explained: "Its a rotary. There's no top end." Our engines are nothing like that; tractor engines for the daily grind.








