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Points to EI

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Old May 4, 2010 | 09:01 AM
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Points to EI

My 1966 F100 has a 1975 engine, an inline 6. But, the distriubutor, with points, is from the original 1966 engine. Naturally it's shot from spinning for 44 years, and I'd like the 75 engiine to be as much like a 75 engine as possible. I bought a new 1975 dist with pick-up coil, cap and rotor. I also bought a new module, that box type that mounts on the inside fender. There is a wiring harness that connects these two units, which I can get at the local junkyard, and I have the wiring diagram, drawing, etc. My question is whether I need anything else to do this conversion. I see references to a "dual ballast resistor" in some places, but I'm uncertain how I would know whether I have such a thing already and if not how and where I wire it into this new system.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Check your voltage at idle at the coil positive with the point Dist. ... or just turn the key on and make sure the points are closed and test the voltage at the coil +

It should be less than battery voltage at idle, if you keep the same power source for the coil the ballast resistor (wire ?) it should still be in the system.
Is the coil you are going to use for EI?
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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Thanks JimsRebel. Yes, I do have a coil for EI, which I plan to install along with the dist and module. And, I just salvaged the harness for connecting the dist and module. So, I think what I'll do next is connect what I am sure of, and from there see what wiring I am still dealing with and whether I can fuigure it out with the wiring diagram I have. Also, since my system will now have EI, I assume I can check the coil voltage as you describe by just turning the key on?
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Well, if you still currently have a running truck with a point Dist. I would see what you are currently getting at the coil +. with points open & closed... key ON.
It would make it easier to know what you might need to add if you know what you currently have RE a ballast resistor.
If you have started the change over already, I would just get it running and take some voltage reading at the coil + at idle.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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I've started the changeover in the sense that I've removed the old distributor. I'll proceed as you suggest and then get a reading. thanks again.
 
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Old May 4, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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If you have only just removed the Dist, you could just just reconnect the coil NEG to the point dist, GRD the dist, and do the points open/closed voltage test.

My gut feeling is you currently have a resistor wire in the system.
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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Well, I'm stumped and frustrated. I removed tihe old points system and distributor from my 1975 engine, nstalled the brand new dizzy, cap, rotor and EI unit. I followed the wiring digrams many people have posted online, and all I got is a rolling engine that won't even cough. I tried a new coil. Its not the one with the horseshoe type clip that goes on over the leads, it's the one with the old style leads with the hold-down nuts. But that's what the parts store gave me when I asked for a coil for a 75 6-cyl ford with electronic ignition. The only thing I have not changed is the plug wires. They are still the ones that were on there when I had the points system. Does this matter? Any suggestions?
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Boo-Boo
Well, I'm stumped and frustrated. I removed tihe old points system and distributor from my 1975 engine, nstalled the brand new dizzy, cap, rotor and EI unit. I followed the wiring digrams many people have posted online, and all I got is a rolling engine that won't even cough. I tried a new coil. Its not the one with the horseshoe type clip that goes on over the leads, it's the one with the old style leads with the hold-down nuts. But that's what the parts store gave me when I asked for a coil for a 75 6-cyl ford with electronic ignition. The only thing I have not changed is the plug wires. They are still the ones that were on there when I had the points system. Does this matter? Any suggestions?
The coil wire is different, round coil/square coil, on the coil side.

I would put a test light on the coil negitive NEG and see if it blinks ON-OFF when you crank it over.

If the light blinks, make sure #1 was at TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor is pointing to #1 CYL.
The cap has a #1 on it.

Jim
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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Jim, I understand you are saying I need a coil wire to fit the EI system rather than the old one from the 1965 system that's on their now, right? But what do you mean by "round coil/square coil"? I will also try the light test. Thanks again
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Boo-Boo
Jim, I understand you are saying I need a coil wire to fit the EI system rather than the old one from the 1965 system that's on their now, right? But what do you mean by "round coil/square coil"? I will also try the light test. Thanks again
I guess you had a round coil to start with on the point system, so you will be fine. Your current wires will be OK

The center part of the coil is a different shape on the square coil so the wire end is also a different shape/style. The square coil style was used on the EEC-IV, you didnt have that type of IGN. It was used on 1984 and newer 4.9.... I thought you had an 85 engine, but I see it was a 75.
 
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