I was reading up on the amsoil single bypass filter kit and its not cheap(really not cheap) $191.00 plus another $40 for the damn filter but it has a 98% efficiancy rating for particles as small as 2 microns and can catch particles as small as 1 micron. I am thinking real hard about getting one for my flathead instead of converting it to a full flow system. Much less labor intensive and still better than the factory system. What do you guys (and gals) think?

 

I don't think it is much better or different than the factory bypass filter. The elements used in the factory filter are much finer than a full-flow spin-on, because (obviously) they don't have to worry about pressure drop. The OEM pieces seem to have worked just fine for millions of vehicles and probably billions of miles...

 

I agree with Ross on this one, that said I converted my stock TP filter to the spin-on type.

 

I think it's a matter of kill or overkill.

I use a Frantz Oil Cleaner (as Marty put it-a Toilet Paper Filter). And I put that on there for a couple of reasons.

First was my particulat engine installation required a remote filter to allow the filter to be changed.

But, I have had Frantz filters in every one of my trucks and they have performed magnificently.

Some of the features I like is that there is no bypass valve - all the oil gets filtered. The TP roll is significantly thicker than a spin on filter element. It filters out water and traps metal and carbon (during break in especially). When I change the oil, I can actually look at the surface of the filter element and see what is going on in my engine or see that there may be a water leak. I have it mounted up in front of the radiator so it adds to oil cooling. I can change the filter element as often as I want at almost no expense (rolls are $7 a dozen).

The Frantz Filters are up to about $200 new now too - if you can find a retailer whos still alive! I've seen one or two everynow and then at car parts swap meets as well usually for about $25 or $30.

It's a matter of personal preference more than a technical issue I think. But, if I had to spend $200 to have a cannister filter with a solid element on my engine, I would - again.

 

Well according to several web sites most engine wear is caused by particles 5 microns and larger. I went to several filter sites that claim 97% efficiancy at 20-25 microns. meaning anything smaller may or may not get trapped. So I think I just made up my mind.

 

I think you mean "most engine wear is caused by particles 5 microns or SMALLER"? I see that claim (unsubstantiated) on several websites for people selling ultra-high efficiency bypass filters. I wouldn't expect them to say anything different.

PS -- make sure they have an orifice in the Amsoil kit to restrict flow thru the filter to something close to the same % as the stock setup, or you'll have -0- oil pressure.

 

1. Evan a - Full Flow - conversion on a Flatmotor isn't full flow.

2. Amsoil is a Ponsi Scheme.

 

No I mean five microns and larger anything less than five should pass through the bearings and small enough not to groove them. Since finding this set up I have done alot of research. the best cellulose media has a 97% rating of 20 micons and bigger. It is not so much the smallest micron it will catch but the highest percentage of the smallest micron it will filter out. I am well aware that it will not be full flow and I will have to run it through the factory fittings so oil pressure should not be a problem. I agree that they want way to much for there oils and such but I think it would be worth the money for the filter in the long run, as far as motor longevity. The factory filter is a PITA to mess with plus mine leaked from the tubing fittings so if I am going to go through the trouble of converting to a spin on I want to at least improve the filtering ability as best I can.