Anybody have any pointers on how to remove the turbo easily? I cant get the bottom nuts off the turbo exhaust exit. Also how do I remove the turbo off the mount or the mount off the engine? Little more difficult than I thought. the orings are leaking like crazy all of a sudden.

 

Those bolts in the back can be a trick. I found that there is a brass looking bracket back there, that once you remove it (I want to say 10mm) you can access the rear mounting bolt on the drivers side a lot easier, but its still at a slow pace, as you have to use a wrench, and turn little at a time! It is slow going!

 

once I have those loose. Will I be able to get the 4 pedestal mount bolts out? Or is there another trick? Anybody have a time frame on how long it will take. I tried tonight but ran out of time. I may get some time tomorrow. I am going on a 3 hour trip this weekend, and if I don't have enough time, I guess I will just bring a lot of oil along. Sucks cause the whole underside of the truck will be a mess.

How many o-rings are there. International gave me 4 plus the exhaust mount steel gasket.

 

You should be able to. You will need to make sure to remove the four nuts that mount the turbo to the exhaust mount. BTW, two of the nuts will be larger then the top two nuts. It doesnt take too long actually. Its just that one pedistal mount nut on the rear drivers side thats a PIA!

Four O-Rings sound about right. Two of them will be for the oil passage from the block to the turbo pedistal. The others should be for the plunger on the turbo.

 

Hmm. Ok, doesn't sound to bad, just the bottom two nuts on the exhaust flange and the drivers side bolt on the pedestal.

 

I remember to see that bracket there, which is its function?, do we needed it in our OBS? or you can get rid it and dont install it again?

 

Use a 1/4 inch drive swivel ande a 10mm socket on the drivers side rear pedistal bolt it should help.
also on the two bottom nuts on the exhaust housing if you take a 15mm wrench and cut about 3" of the shank off with the closed end wrench and bend it 90* to the shank you can weld it to a 3"x3/8" extension and make an offset so it is easier to get to them.

make sure you remove the exhaust backpressure valve first and get it out of the way it will make things way easier. i think those are 8mm bolts. the little actuator rod just has a collar on it that slides back and it drops free of the ebpv

the hardest part is the two bottom nuts on the collector and the back pedistal bolt on the drivers side.
You can do it, Good luck
Andy

 

I left that little bracket off when i put mine back together

 

Ok, thank you, but what is the purpuose of it?, its for the future waste gate (SDs?) ?

 

idk i think its just for decoration lol

 

I dont have that bracket.

The exhaust bolts are 15mm.
Soak them good for a day or so with pb blaster.
If you get them off first, which you can do with just a 15mm wrench, when you pull the rear pedestal bolts, the pedestal can lift up to make it easier to get them out.
The passenger side one towards the back will not come out and has to come out with the pedestal, and has to be in when you put the pedestal back in.

I do recall those being 10mm.

My personal thought, remove the front ones first and then get the drivers side one.
Then the pedestal can lift up when you remove the rear passenger side one. I had trouble putting my pedestal back on cause I had the turbo bolted to the exhaust, which made it hard to get the wrench on cause the pedestal could not lift up.

Takes a long time, but is really easy with the transmission out.
Would be even easier with out the EBPV crap in the way.

Make sure to gut that crap out when you take out that pedestal.

Thats the stuff I remember.

I used a 1x4 to get some leverage on the hard to get bolts with the 15mm wrench, and then a socket and swivel for the rest.
The drivers side lower one is the bugger to get at, you can get the rest with a swivel.
The board trick worked good. Just remember to turn it the right way. I accidentaly tightened it the first couple times cause i wasn't thinking about it.

 

Be sure to order up a set of pedestal and turbo o-rings also. Replace them while you have them off.

if your up pipes don't leak, don't touch them.

Also, the turbo bolts onto the bottom of the pedestal.