All I wanted to do was inspect my rear brakes. Rounding off a lugnut is easily addressed on our vehicles... right?

I have spacers on the rear duallies to accommodate larger tires. I rounded off one of the lugnuts INSIDE the spacer. Did I really put so much torque on it with my 3 foot breaker bar that I rounded off the lugnut? It was firmly seated and the proper socket.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this with limited tools?

I already hammered a one size smaller socket as far on as I could because it seemed like the smartest option... and rounded that off. I'm batting a thousand right now.

I'm sincerely thankful that I did this in my driveway and not on the side of a highway.

 

What size are the nuts? If 1" or less:
MSC Item Detail

And order a six point socket while you're at it....

 

can you get a hacksaw in there?

 

The lugnut is inside the 3" spacer. even if I got the end of a hacksaw in there I don't think I could move it more than an 1/8th of an inch per stroke.

I was using a six point socket when I stripped it... both times.

That bolt extractor set is probably my only choice. Thanks for the link. I'll call some friends to see if anyone has some before I part with the money.

 

This is a difficult situation. You may have to drill out the stud and nut, and then replace both with new. Another option is to weld a hardened nut onto the old nut, and replace with new.

 

I'm a bit confused, does the space resemble something like this?

WHEEL SPACERS ADAPTERS 8x170 Ford F250 F350 2"

If so this is gonna be a tough one. Had this happen once on a friends Dodge, but no wheel spacers! I ended up having him buy a dremel and we cut the thing out.

I'd recommend doing the same here. Attack it with a dremel fitted with a cutoff wheel from all sides. Then beat it with a chisel and hammer if necessary. Of course you'll need to replace the stud, but it will likely be cheaper than the bolt extractor kit.

And to be honest, if it was so tight you rounded it off with a 6 point socket, I'd have my doubts as to whether a bolt extractor would be able to get it.

Use a torque wrench next time! ONLY 150 ft-lbs!

 

Maybe you could weld a bolt to the nut, but that would be very very difficult.

 

Usually easier to weld a nut to the end of the lug nut. The hole will give you a good location to make a plug weld and the outside of the nut will give you the bite. The heat also will help loosen the OEM lug nut, so be sure to get to it as soon as possible after welding.

 

Do you have aluminum or steel wheels?

 

An old timer taught me a trick with aluminum wheels to put a heavy coating of grease on the facial of the wheel and lug whole than torch it off.

 

& a chisel and taking breaks in torching to clean the wheel and add more grease to keep the finish protected.

 

Probably the best bet is to center drill the stud and drill out the stud and center of the nut stepping up the drill size as you go. Once you get up to a large enough drill you'll drill through the threads of the nut holding it to the stud. Just make shure you don't drill too deep and into the wheel. Then replace the stud and nut. With the nut and stud hidden inside the spacer there is not a lot of options.

Torches do a nasty hack job at almost everything, I make shure to keep torch happy guys far away from my stuff.

 

Die grinder or Dremel tool and spend the few hours that it'll take to CAREFULLY remove only the nut. If you're really good you could probably make a couple of really careful cuts and then use a small chisel to help break the nut open.

Don't drill out the stud until you've massacred the nut.

 

i used a small drill and worked my way up drilling thru the center of the stud...
these *are* pressed fit studs, right?

if they can be accessed thru the side, i think an angle grinder would work great

 

Dude,,,A 3 foot breaker bar,,,on a,,, I beleive 13/16 Nut !!! WHY ?

I have torqed mine to 140 ft lbs,,,never had a problem with them loosening!

Maybe some heat and a Impact socket,,,Good Luck !!