I have noticed that its time for me to replace my front left wheel bearing. I am going to replace both sides at the same time... I have been looking around on where to buy replacements. but my searches have come to a hault. I found this website 2004 Ford Pickup F350 Super-duty - Front Wheel Bearings and Seals Parts -TIMKEN,PARTS PLUS BEARINGS & SEALS- Wheelbearingwarehouse.com

I believe I need the second or third one down. If I am wrong please assist me in what I need, whether it be just a bearing or the hub assembly.

Also is that selling left and right. or just one?

steveo

 

Check out this site...definately call these guys...tell them you heard about their online promo code f150online to get an additional 10% off...they will need your VIN, but after that, their prices are hard to beat.

http://www.TascaParts.com

 

I will check them out today... I will have to call them next week when I return home.

 

Try this place. They come with a lifetime warranty. I had to have one replaced and they did. http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.com/

 

Be real careful where you get bearings from.

Market is beginning to be flooded with sub-standard parts, counterfeits, etc.

 

I ordered from FORD

Going to replace them on friday, kind nervous about it!

 

I just replaced all the front wheel bearings in my '88 with Timkin bearings and seals. The thing that bothered me about the timkin bearings from AZ is the bearing and race was assembled in the US and the grease seal came from Taiwan. My bearings are very simple and light duty compared to those on the SD's. I'd advise caution.

 

So I got my new hubs in... I am going to install them today. Just have a few questions; I read a how-to already but somethings dont make sense to me.
Easy way - your hubs slide out, and this takes you an hour max each side. If you are VERY lucky you can remove them the easy way.
Hard way -
1. Jack up your truck, and install a jackstand.
2. Spray all the brake and hub assembly bolts on the backside with PB blaster, as well as the connector for your ABS that goes on your fender well cover inside.
3. Remove the wheel, I believe they are 19mm.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12262
4.From here, take the caliper apart, I believe its 17mm and two bolts. Set them on the leaf spring so you don't damage the line.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12260
5. Next is the caliper bracket, this is 21mm, two bolts on the backside. Now would be a good time to change your pads.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12259
6. Now the rotor will slide off, set it aside.
7. The hub has a snap ring that comes off easily.
Pic ?????: Same one as below??
Now the fun begins, pulling the hub:
(If you are like me and being up to the doors in mud is a rather normal occasion, read ahead).
8. Soak the hub in PB blaster and grab a big pair of channel locks and a hammer and beat on it.
9. You may have to do this for a good 30 minutes. This is truley the only way to get the hub out if it's stuck.
10. From here the hub is held on with a snap ring and shims, pull them out.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12261
11. Reach behind and there are 4 21mm bolts - they are on tight but you should be able to get them off without a breaker bar.
12. Once all four are off, the hub will slide out. The ABS line is attached with an 8mm bolt. Undo it and follow the line up to where it connects and undo it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12258
13. Remember which way the brake shield goes, and put it on the new hub (remembering to insert the new studs).
14. From here it is simple: attach the 4 nuts to the back, put the shims and snap ring in front, then the hub can go in. The caliper bracket goes next, then the caliper. Hopefully there will be no need to compress the pistons, and you can just tap it in with your hammer.
15. From here just put the wheel on, the hub, the snapring, and torque everything. Now do the other side.

I know on the hub where you turn it to lock and autolock there is a snap ring there is this the snap ring they are talking about in step 10? or is there another one that actually hold the hub on?

but in general this how-to doesnt make much sense to me.. Like I said before I have never had a 4wd vehicle before.

Tseekins
I am in the coast guard currently - CGC Sycamore ET2

 

Kinda depends on what MY you have...your sig has nothing to go by? If you have an '05 MY or later...some things will be different...the snap ring is there, but the shims are not. You will need a really good pair of snap ring pliers (for external snap rings). Can you say which MY you have? Just did this last weekend so I can help.

 

I believe it's a 2004. I would also disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle, makes it much easier to get at the 4 nuts at the back of the hub.
Everything should be 21mm except for the caliper bolts.
The ring in #7 is pictured below.
The hub lock can be a pain, tap it around the circumference rather than beating on it, eventually it will start to move.
Save yourself the hassle and buy new mounting studs for the hub assembly (if they aren't included) rather than removing the ones from your old one.
Don't forget the yellow o-ring for the hub assembly.
Grease the needle bearing till it won't take any more, then grease it more.
The biggest pain when I did mine was reinstalling the hub lock. The o-ring made it very hard to push in ( i'm pretty sure its that o-ring that also makes
them hard to get out) and beating on the plastic face of the lock is a bad idea. A piece of flat bar against the face and clamped at each side to the hub flange works wonders.
Tighten both clamps evenly and its in with no effort.


-Edit: Seems you were doing the work today, hope it went well and maybe this will help someone else.

 

Everyone thanks for the responding.
sorry I didnt give my truck year its a 2004.
I went to go replace them today, but stopped once I realized i had to use my old studs. so I reinstalled everything and now browsing the internet looking for these studs. I also found some other problems... but they are easy and quick fixes.

as for everything coming apart it was a breeze, maybe 20-30 minutes... everything just slid out no hassle.

I took a picture of something that needs to be replaced and I will add that picture once I get back home. Hoping there is an howto for that install.

 

Ok so here is a picture and I know its not good...

I can do the work just need some help on finding out what I need, thank you again for all being so helpful!
I know for sure I have to replace the bearing for the outer axle shaft on the steering knuckle. but not sure what all I need to do it... when I was looking at the out axle itself I didnt see anyway the two came apart. I dont think I will have to replace my axles.

the first one is the one that looks bad to me!

 

The seal you're pointing at in the first pic is the dust seal. They go bad almost as soon as you install them and not a critical part to your originally stated problem. To replace it would require removing the entire knuckle.
The second pic seems to show a lot of metal shavings in the knuckle and I can't tell how good or bad the bearing race looks on the axle because of the grease, but if those are shavings, then you might want to have that axle looked at before you replace the hub assembly. Putting good bearings on bad races only shortens their life.
Also, I think the Ford part number you're looking for the hub studs is:
F81Z107AA x 4 each.
Were you following Guzzle's How-To?
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/doc/nblube.pdf
I replaced mine using his guide and my Chilton's. It was very helpful.

 

1st pic is the dust seal. 2nd pic you have the thrust washer whick looks fine, and the big main axle seal (or knuckle seal) behind it. I'm not too sure which bearing you are referring to. Your new hub assembly should include the needle bearing that the machined part of your axle in pic 2 rides in, that is the one to make sure is well greased before re-assembly As long as that part of the axle shaft isn't scored than the shaft is good. Clean it to better see. To replace the dust seal pull the whole axle shaft straight out, and the seal just slides off, clean the inside of the tube before sliding the shaft back in. You may or may not damage the knuckle seal when you do this. I would just replace it anyway since you are there. To get a new one of those on you need a seal driver, very easy to make out of 1 1/4" pipe, flange and cap. Need to grind the flange to fit against the center part of that seal though, NOT against the metal ring. Its a very tight fit onto the axle shaft, pound it on till it won't go any further. You then use the same tool to reinstall the axle into the knuckle. Put the trust washer back on, grooves to the back, then your back to where you were. It's a pretty simple job by the time you've got things dissassembled to the point you're at now in the pictures.

 

If the axle shaft in the second picture is worn down any, you'll need to replace it or it will take out the new bearings (small one on the back of the hub, not the main wheel bearing). That happened because the old bearings dried out and chewed up the shaft. Ford will tell you that you can't buy just the stub, but its a lie! Talk to Ed at www.partsguyed.com He's a Ford dealer out in Washington. Very good guy and has great prices.