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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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looking at rebuilding head

i am going to take my head off of my 93 4.9l and get it resurfaced if it needs to and also get valves ground again if they need to. i want to replace the cam and would like to go with a good brand, i would go with the crane cam but i dont think they make them right now since they just started the site back up. i know they have one for my engine. and when i was on summit racing looking at kits cause i would like to replace the valve springs, rods and lifters also i seen you can get them with timing gears. should i replace my gears or not? i would like to try and do this on a budget. i will be throwing my headers on after i do all of this.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Crane is manufacturing. If you change the cam, then get the kit that goes with it. You don't need new p.rods.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Crane is manufacturing. If you change the cam, then get the kit that goes with it. You don't need new p.rods.


unless they are bent
 
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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is it hard to port and polish a head?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by |WYG|SS
unless they are bent
Clean with paint thinner and roll em on a piece of glass. I'd be very surprised if they were bent. If they are, then I would guess that you may have some serious probs with valves, guides, etc., and need to check those out very carefully. The guy doing the head needs to know if the p. rods were bent.

Research. Start watching vids online of porting work. Know what to do and what not to do. Research. Don't start before you understand what to do. No, it is not difficult when you know what to do. Take notes. Learn.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Most tutorials on basic port~polish work will apply to your cylinder head.

Real port work involes alot of R&D and a flowbench and a cfm goal....along with a scrap head but for your needs, basic port work techniques are fine.

Have the head checked for cracks before you do anything, the efi heads are prone to crack...Ive known guys to go through a dozen from a junkyard trying to find one that wasnt.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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i had taken the valve cover off in october to replace the gasket and now it has a dent in it. i had painted it and did not notcie this before so i must have happened in the past couple of months.





this is in between the number 2 and 3 cylinder and here is a picture of the rockers

here is a close up of what the rocker that would have made that dent



what would have caused this to happen?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:47 PM
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just got the answer i was looking for so i can save some money. i got a valve ticking that you could only hear when you are pressing on the gas lightly. someone told me that the 4.9l have weak lifters and one of mine is bad which me and my dad suspected, so i will probably just drop a cam in their and put the exhaust on.

now this guy on the other website is telling me not to put a cam in a stock engine but wouldn't it give me a little more power?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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just posting a couple pics of pulling the head.
my friend that had helped me thinks i should just pull the rest of the engine its only a couple more bolts and wires. what do you guys think? i would probably just do a two part pull and install if i decide to do it. im debating on it but i don't want to spend the money on the block and parts if i don't have to. cause i heard the bottom end of the 6's are known to last long with being taken care of. my oil pan is starting to rust how would i go a bout fixing this if i keep it on the engine? and for the cam i am going to remove the radiator and front part of grill to access it cause it would be easier. i was thinking about just tilting the engine and trans upward to install it( i would disconnect the drive shaft u joints and the transfer case u joint and then just unbolt the trans and tilt them both) but i was thinking then the engine and trans will just slide back.

i will be taking the valves off tomorrow. what should i look for for checking the valve guides? i did buy a digital caliper thing so i will be checking measurements to make sure everything is good

and with the egr can i just hook it up to one cylinder tube or should i hook it up to the collector?

one question why are the exhaust valves like a reddish orange?
this first picture is what they look like. it is in night mode on camera so you can see the color change



here are the pics of it off.






 
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Old Apr 29, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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1. If you simply have a lifter clicking, then you are laughing. Get a valve job done (if that was the purpose of pulling the head) and throw it back together with some new lifters. Buy good quality ones! Don't go cheapo.

2. Pulling the engine: Unless that thing is burning serious oil, knocking, or has teeth missing off the t. gears, leave well enough alone. If you have good oil psi, don't throw your money away.

3. Cam: With an EFI engine, you are limited to very mild cams. If you were to just stick a cam in, you probably wouldn't even notice a difference. Again, you are just throwing time, money, and labor away.

4. Oil pan: prowl the junkyard and find a replacement. Wash it clean with paint-thinner, then the outside with brake cleaner, and paint it. Adhere gasket to pan with Gasket Cinch, dabbing a little glob of silicone on the four corners where the pan begins the radius around the crank, clean bottom of block with brake cleaner (after scraping old gasket), and put it on. Use a 1/4" drive hand ratchet, tightening in little increments, cross-crossing around the pan. Spend about 1/2 hour just SLOWLY tightening the bolts.


Cheers
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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thanks alot for the help and advice f250 restorer.

i was just wondering how a cam wont do good compared to a efi engine?
if this is true i will be saving alot of money.
after i took the head off it had a gasket with orange lines around the holes and bolt holes and looked in good condition so i think it was redone before. and with the valves can i just measure to see if the valve seal is good or should i just take it to the guy to get them done?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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U got a vehicle that is known to need very little tinkerin, (yet B easy cuz of the design/6cyl) be very durable and good to work/use as an income/business - haul/tow, carry etc. I believe the performance stuff on this 1 is: intake, carb, exhaust, ignition. Being a "worker" that will not provide great, but some, perform. advantages beyond stock. Ask from that direction, esp from those on here that know, and you will get far.
Keep it up n good luck, C U here!
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by |WYG|SS
thanks alot for the help and advice f250 restorer.

i was just wondering how a cam wont do good compared to a efi engine?
if this is true i will be saving alot of money.
after i took the head off it had a gasket with orange lines around the holes and bolt holes and looked in good condition so i think it was redone before. and with the valves can i just measure to see if the valve seal is good or should i just take it to the guy to get them done?
You have an EFI engine. Those engines are limited to what type of performance parts you can put on, and to what degree of performance the part are to have, because of your computer. With an EFI engine, you are limited to computer compatible cams, which are mild. Simply putting in a cam will give you very small gains that you may not even notice. For the amount of work it takes to change the cam, and the cost, I don't think it is worth is. But that is certainly up to you.

The head: Why did you remove it? To stop the ticking caused by a lifter? Since it is off, if it was me, I would take it in and have a valve job done and have it magnafluxed to check for cracks. But that is just me. I don't like to do things twice, so I try to cover all bases before reassembly.

Are you sure it was just a lifter clicking. And if so, why did you pull the head?
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 06:08 PM
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well i guess you are right about the cam. now what are anti pump lifters(i think they are called)?
i am going to get a valve job done. if i ever have to remove a head i would probably get a valve job done cause then you wont have to do it later on. just did it to kind of check everything out cause i had a Throttle Body gasket get sucked into the engine. and i wanted to make sure their is no scoring of the walls. and i am pretty sure it was a lifter clicking cause it was only accelerating you could hear it. the one time i went mudding i was going through mud holes in 2wd and was at high rpm's which was not good either and after that that is when the sound started


after i pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds off i noticed in the intake it is still wet with gas is it running that rich i am guessing.

LMC Truck Parts - Page 103
and as i pulled off the AIR tube(thing on top of page on the website) on head one of the thins was broke off on and that is why i had the exhaust ticking noise. do i actually need this or can i just plug them with bolts cause the #6 the one that broke off is still threadded in their cant get it out.
 
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Old May 1, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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can you help point me in a good direction of lifters? cause if i just use stock cam their will be differences in lifter wont their>? that would be great



how would these do?
Rhoads Lifters 9006X - Rhoads V-Max Flat Tappet Lifters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
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