Hard Starting/Chugging
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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Hard Starting/Chugging
2004 Excursion Ltd, 6.0 PSD, ~ 98,000 miles, out of warranty for time in service.
I've got the dreaded cold start problem. Chugging, lots of smoke, won't start for the first several tries, then when it does I have to let it warm up a few minutes before it has enough power to drive. Once it's warmed up it drives fine and as long as it hasn't been shut down long it starts ok.
I thought oil level might have been low but it's fine.
I'm going to change the fuel filters and I've read a lot of the threads and am confident I can do it.
Question: When you remove the cap from the primary fuel filter (the one under the body, mounted on the frame rail), does a bunch of fuel dump out, or is that component drained in the first step when you pull the water sump plug?
Anything more complicated than the fuel filters and I think I'm gonna have to drive/drag it to the dealer...sigh...
I've got the dreaded cold start problem. Chugging, lots of smoke, won't start for the first several tries, then when it does I have to let it warm up a few minutes before it has enough power to drive. Once it's warmed up it drives fine and as long as it hasn't been shut down long it starts ok.
I thought oil level might have been low but it's fine.
I'm going to change the fuel filters and I've read a lot of the threads and am confident I can do it.
Question: When you remove the cap from the primary fuel filter (the one under the body, mounted on the frame rail), does a bunch of fuel dump out, or is that component drained in the first step when you pull the water sump plug?
Anything more complicated than the fuel filters and I think I'm gonna have to drive/drag it to the dealer...sigh...
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Get it code scanned. Clean the EGR. Sounds like injectors to me, but that's just a guess. It is normal for quite a bit of fuel to come out when you remove the primary fuel filter as the water separator plug is a separate chamber IIRC.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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I'll pull and clean the EGR this weekend. I have access to a solvent tank at work.
Is this something I can just dump into the tank for a while and pull out later or will it damage something?
I guess the next purchase will be a code puller to check those.
When I was at the dealer to buy the fuel filters, I spoke to the service manager I usually deal with and he's betting it's the FICM...grrr... I guess there's a way to check the voltage it's supplying to the injectors during the crank cycle. He said it's supposed to be 48V, but a failing FICM will be down around 20 - 24v and slowly climb up to 48V at which time it fires the injectors.
Is it hard to check the FICM voltage? Simple as using a multimeter or do you need a computer hooked up somewhere?
Thanks for the quick reply!
Is this something I can just dump into the tank for a while and pull out later or will it damage something?
I guess the next purchase will be a code puller to check those.
When I was at the dealer to buy the fuel filters, I spoke to the service manager I usually deal with and he's betting it's the FICM...grrr... I guess there's a way to check the voltage it's supplying to the injectors during the crank cycle. He said it's supposed to be 48V, but a failing FICM will be down around 20 - 24v and slowly climb up to 48V at which time it fires the injectors.
Is it hard to check the FICM voltage? Simple as using a multimeter or do you need a computer hooked up somewhere?
Thanks for the quick reply!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,085
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ca.
The first few posts in the tech folder have all kinds of FICM info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
Don't dunk your EGR valve.....use a can of carb cleaner and a little brush. Be careful not to get any liquid inside the two holes in the base.
Don't dunk your EGR valve.....use a can of carb cleaner and a little brush. Be careful not to get any liquid inside the two holes in the base.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,894
Likes: 3,613
Here is the tech folder post:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...egr-valve.html
One thing - Ford states to NOT use brake cleaner, but to use carb cleaner (seal compatibility). Gearloose is tryiing to clean his and is not getting it clean w/ carb cleaner, but I did with mine (and a brush). Mine was pretty bad - as bad as any picture I have seen.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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Not rude at all!!
No worries bismic...
I know better and should have looked around a bit. I frequent a couple other forums (boat and motorcycle) and I just did what drives everyone crazy, ask a question that's been asked and answered numerous times.
I gotta say, though, the tech folder part(s) of this site are particularly detailed and helpful, way better than the other foums I haunt.
I know better and should have looked around a bit. I frequent a couple other forums (boat and motorcycle) and I just did what drives everyone crazy, ask a question that's been asked and answered numerous times.
I gotta say, though, the tech folder part(s) of this site are particularly detailed and helpful, way better than the other foums I haunt.
Last edited by hrkdrivr; Apr 24, 2010 at 07:52 PM. Reason: typo
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
No worries bismic...
I know better and should have looked around a bit. I frequet a couple other forums (boat and motorcycle) and I just did what drives everyone crazy, ask a question that's been asked and answered numerous times.
I gotta say, though, the tech folder part(s) of this site are particularly detailed and helpful, way better than the other foums I haunt.
I know better and should have looked around a bit. I frequet a couple other forums (boat and motorcycle) and I just did what drives everyone crazy, ask a question that's been asked and answered numerous times.
I gotta say, though, the tech folder part(s) of this site are particularly detailed and helpful, way better than the other foums I haunt.
If you can't find it on this site about a Ford truck it might not exist
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Also, in reading hte forum, you may want to load test your batteries and check your alternator outputs and clean your battery posts, all 4, check all your ground and pos cables for rot. If you are not geting the voltage to the FICM, it cant jump it up to 48v, and this could be an early sign before you take the FICM for a crapper. Just a suggestion, my before start voltage in cab is 12.8 volts, my post start is 12.8, rises to 13.2, my alternator pos cable will read 14.4 to 14.6 just after start (once glow plugs are off and it excites). These are all good places to check. You may have a battery on the way out, all it takes is one cell, you may have a weak alt, so, good insurance to check and replace or address cables or dirty posts before testing voltage at teh FICM IMO. you are right, this site is much more detailed and folks will help. Keep plugging away at this yourself and asking questions and you can learn a lot, I know I have.
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Cross-Country
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mhoefer, I just got two new batteries about 4 months ago, conatacts are tight and clean, but I will check the voltages across the batteries and at the alternator. I'm confident the batteries are good but the alt might be weak.
Just bought a code puller, a little cheapo at AdvanceAuto. No codes present but it showed three maintenance monitor notes: "misfire;" "comp;" "EGR." The "comp" is Comprehensive Components Monitor. Not sure what these notes tell me other than the motor misfired at some point (duh), might have an EGR problem (will pull / clean that tomorrow), and don't know what the implications of "comp" are...
Just bought a code puller, a little cheapo at AdvanceAuto. No codes present but it showed three maintenance monitor notes: "misfire;" "comp;" "EGR." The "comp" is Comprehensive Components Monitor. Not sure what these notes tell me other than the motor misfired at some point (duh), might have an EGR problem (will pull / clean that tomorrow), and don't know what the implications of "comp" are...
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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Checked voltages across the batteries (individually) and at the FCIM. Batteries are ok, but unfortunately the FICM isn't.
Voltage at the FICM at key-turn-on was ~19.5V and didn't change during a crank cycle. I did not let the engine start since I had the air cleaner / plumbing removed all the way up to the turbo.
I got a guy at work who might be able to float the solder joints so I may try that.
I've read in some of the Ford manuals in the tech folder that a new FICM doesn't come programmed. So if I buy one from Ford will I need to install it and then drag it to the shop to be programmed?? If I get one from one of the aftermarket companies, will it arrive programmed?
I haven't pulled the EGR yet. I'll do that after I get the FICM out and either sent in for core or while my friend is working on it.
Voltage at the FICM at key-turn-on was ~19.5V and didn't change during a crank cycle. I did not let the engine start since I had the air cleaner / plumbing removed all the way up to the turbo.
I got a guy at work who might be able to float the solder joints so I may try that.
I've read in some of the Ford manuals in the tech folder that a new FICM doesn't come programmed. So if I buy one from Ford will I need to install it and then drag it to the shop to be programmed?? If I get one from one of the aftermarket companies, will it arrive programmed?
I haven't pulled the EGR yet. I'll do that after I get the FICM out and either sent in for core or while my friend is working on it.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
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I'm pretty pleased with myself...
I managed to get the FICM and the EGR removed today... 
Pictures of the EGR.
The truck has 98,000 miles; I've owned it since about 44,000 miles. I've never used any fuel additive because until I read about it here I didn't know any better. The carbon buildup is dry and flakey and it was falling off in chunks as I carried it into the house to take pictures. I'll clean it tomorrow at work, w/brake cleaner.
Pictures of the FICM guts.
I got a little overzealous removing the amber glue stuff and stripped the covering off some of the capacitors (?) on the board. Is this a problem (have I removed some electrical insulation?) or is the covering just a labeling/identification method? If it is a problem, can I just replace the amber, non-conductive stuff to seal them bck up?
Reading through the FICM repair procedure, you're supposed to re-flow some solder connections. I don't see any cracked or broken solder. Is it possible reflowing will still help?
Thanks again gang!!!
Pictures of the EGR.
The truck has 98,000 miles; I've owned it since about 44,000 miles. I've never used any fuel additive because until I read about it here I didn't know any better. The carbon buildup is dry and flakey and it was falling off in chunks as I carried it into the house to take pictures. I'll clean it tomorrow at work, w/brake cleaner.
Pictures of the FICM guts.
I got a little overzealous removing the amber glue stuff and stripped the covering off some of the capacitors (?) on the board. Is this a problem (have I removed some electrical insulation?) or is the covering just a labeling/identification method? If it is a problem, can I just replace the amber, non-conductive stuff to seal them bck up?
Reading through the FICM repair procedure, you're supposed to re-flow some solder connections. I don't see any cracked or broken solder. Is it possible reflowing will still help?
Thanks again gang!!!