I use Motorcraft Single Platinums just because they last longer than the Coppers and don't cost but about a buck more each. I think I pay under $3/plug for those. The Ford Motorsport wires are the best you can get for the Winsor V8 IMO and are not terribly expensive. I wish they made a set for my 300 Six.

This is very good advise.

 

I love MSD products too! If I still lived near a Summit Racing warehouse I'd probably run those on my I-6. I had the whole Pro-billet distributor, 6A, SD wires and Blaster coil on my old 302 and LOVED it.

My 300 is my "keep it simple" motor that gets the most miles/dollar of anything I've ever owned.

 

I like my 302, but 300's are very tenacious w/ just a little TLC. I like the 302's top end, but my 300 liked pulling heavy trailered stuff better! I just wasn't getting very many miles out of other wires till I bit the bullet & got the Superconductors. The spark pulse from a low ohm, 60k coil is kinda like an 800lb. Gorrilla!

 

Maybe you can answer this question that's been bugging me. I was reading this article (FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs) and I couldn't figure out why they were saying that in order to bump the timing you needed to have a larger cap. Why does plug type or gap affect the ability for timing change?

 

Actually, there's 3 things being done on the link that compliment each other.

A timing bump by itself only requires a sound, healthy ignition system, assuming the rest of the engine is up to it as mentioned below. The Ignition system upgrade is to allow the gap stretch to provide consistent, adiquate firings w/ larger spark kernels.

The problem w/ double Platinum plugs is they create more heat from the extra resistance created by the platinum plate (how they self clean). It is less conductive than copper & once the heat is created in the cylinder, the platinum's insulative properties inhibits that heat from being drawn out through the plug. This lends itself to ping. That's the last thing you want for a timing bump. The coppers create less heat to begin with & more effectively draw heat away. I can't get a comfortable 16 BTDC w/ 87 octane using double platinums. Occacional Ping under load! Coppers cores, no problem! I can get 18 BTDC w/ coppers but don't see enough gain in the extra 2 degrees in an otherwise stock engine to warrant running it there.

The link specifies a higher voltage(48-60k) low ohm (.35-.45 ohm) coil, lower resistance superior insulated wires to contain the spark impulse all the way to the plug, which now can have a 25% larger spark kernel exposure to more effectively ignite the atomized fuel. Because now your able to run w/ a .056 gap, rather than a stock .044 gap. A brass cap & rotor are required to provide dependable dispensation of the spark pulses. A high output coil would destroy a stock Cap & rotor set in short order. 16 BTDC seems to be the sweet spot for an otherwise stock engine. Not enough additional benifit to warrent going w/ any more advance. Once again Copper core plugs, requiring less resistance to be overcome to initiate spark, is the best choice for larger gaps than Double Platinums.

Your engine's ducks have to be in a row for a successful timing bump. No active codes. No combustion chamber deposits (Seafoam), Desludge the engine (Seafoam), effective coolant system(flush), no unmetered air or Vac leaks. Healthy fuel delivery system (Pressure & clean injectors) . compression doesn't have to be impressive, just balanced. Synthetic oil w/ a stabilizer (Lucas)is strongly advised. Your asking it to produce a higher rate of compression, so it deserves & should have it. I also suggest after flushing the collant system, to switch to Distilled water/antifreeze to corrosion, hard particle & scale build up. And switching, at least to a 180F thermostat is beneficial.

The less of these duck in a row, the less additional advance will be tolerated before ping is observed. Most people and up at 13-14 BTDC. Advance base timing incrementally from stock 10 BTDC till ping is observed under load, then retard 2 degrees. On gap stretching, increase incrementally till miss is observed under load, then bring gap in .002. Whatever you do, resist the urge to increase octane. Eventually, it will only come back to bite you in the ***! These engine's are engineered to run on 87' octane, even w/ the timing bump (although OBD2's seem to be able to adapt to a slight increase/ I'm guessing MAF & sequential injection helps).

Then there's a very few that do everything right in prep & parts, & can't seem to get past 14 BTDC. Beat's the ***** outta me! I wish I knew what their glitch. I'm thinkin something below the surface, like a failed air intake gasket, but that normally affects idle.

 

Thanks, this is really good info. I'm learning quite a bit here. Also, the guy in that article said he was experiencing 1.25 seconds improvement in his 0-60. That seems like an awfully big improvement for such a simple mod. Do you think that it really could make that much of a difference?

 

Yep. And he only advanced to 13.5 BTDC. 16 BTDC is the sweet spot. When I retard back to 10 BTDC for smog tests every other year, it feels like I'm pulling a 3k trailer comparatively. Plus, w/ the Igniton upgrade, gap stretch & base timing bump, I get 23mpg @ 65mph. 87' 302 (MAP) But your asking more of the engine so you need those ducks in a row! The only other mods are a K&N drop in filter & all fluids are synthetic. Coolant system is antifreeze/ distilled water & a 180F thermostat. At 10 BTDC w/o the ignition upgrade & gap stretch, when you step on the accelerator, you speed up. At 16 BTDC w/ ignition upgrade & gap stretch, when you step on the accelerator, you are really accelerating!

 

Awesome- I did the same thing this year! Run up up and down the freeway with the timing back to 9 (Initial) and blew clean. Booyah.

Fuel economy is definitely better with more advance, up to 16, anyways.

 

16's the sweet spot!