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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #1  
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Big power loss

Ok I just put a wicked wheel in this weekend thanks to Nick (weekendwarriorfs32) for his help. Today I hooked up the trailer just to see if EGT's would be lower. It felt like my truck had a lot less power and was working harder to pull my 26 foot travel trailer that at most might be 6000 lbs fully loaded it is 4700 dry. The EGT's seemed to be a litter lower and all my surge is gone. What am I missing? What else can I look at? The truck runs perfect empty. I am starting to thing I might have an issue wth my trailer but it is only two years old please help this is driving me nuts. Just had the wheel berings repacked in November. What else could it be? Oh and i am using the 80T tune.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by renyren
Ok I just put a wicked wheel in this weekend thanks to Nick (weekendwarriorfs32) for his help. Today I hooked up the trailer just to see if EGT's would be lower. It felt like my truck had a lot less power and was working harder to pull my 26 foot travel trailer that at most might be 6000 lbs fully loaded it is 4700 dry. The EGT's seemed to be a litter lower and all my surge is gone. What am I missing? What else can I look at? The truck runs perfect empty. I am starting to thing I might have an issue wth my trailer but it is only two years old please help this is driving me nuts. Just had the wheel berings repacked in November. What else could it be? Oh and i am using the 80T tune.
Whenever something doesn't work the way it should, I go back to the last thing I changed! Did your boost change? There not much a trailer can do. You can unplug the seven pin and see if it makes a difference and jack it up and spin the wheels, but I suspect your trailer is an innocent bystander.

Steve


Steve
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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I just did a run up the freeway 10 -12 miles with it unpluged and it seemed to run with less effort. Then on the freeway back I pluged the trailer back in motor was working harder high boost and rpm to maintain the same speed. Boodt numbers with the wicked wheel and adjusting the wastegate are up to 26. Starting to think maybe one of the braked is binding up. Any other suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by renyren
I just did a run up the freeway 10 -12 miles with it unpluged and it seemed to run with less effort. Then on the freeway back I pluged the trailer back in motor was working harder high boost and rpm to maintain the same speed. Boodt numbers with the wicked wheel and adjusting the wastegate are up to 26. Starting to think maybe one of the braked is binding up. Any other suggestions?
If you have an electric brake that is activating without the brake controller being activated, if you take an amp draw on the blue lead from the seven pin when hooked up, but leaving the brake controller alone. You should be able to see it immediately. Since you say it does not happen unless hitched, the truck would have to be providing the power. If it were something to do with the trailer, you should have felt it running both ways in your test run. This would be a very unusual situation!

Steve
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 09:59 PM
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Any chance you tripped the emergency brake switch on the trailer? Say it's tripped, the battery is dead, and then gets charged from the truck once it's connected, so your brakes are being applied. Beyond that, maybe a defective controller?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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brake controller is new last year after trailer place told me mine was bad. Its a prodigy. If emergency brake was tripped wouldn't the brakes be locked up?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:55 PM
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> If emergency brake was tripped wouldn't the brakes be locked up?

Like the person mentioned, not if it is dead. If the battery is bad, it may not even take a charge. You turn the truck off or disconnect the cable and it falls to 9v or less so the brakes/magnets release.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rebocardo
> If emergency brake was tripped wouldn't the brakes be locked up?

Like the person mentioned, not if it is dead. If the battery is bad, it may not even take a charge. You turn the truck off or disconnect the cable and it falls to 9v or less so the brakes/magnets release.
Add to that, when you plug it back in, you won't get full current through the charge line to the trailer, so the brakes won't be locked, but there may be enough current to put some drag on them.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 06:30 AM
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Pretty easy to see if the "break-away is pulled.

Steve
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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on a recent trip to Florida, my trailer felt significantly heavier on the way back than it did on the way down, and we didn't buy that much stuff. On a subsequent trip to Florida a few weeks later, the trailer still felt heavier than normal. I have also noticed the RV axles are leaking a decent amount of grease. Probably something I need to have checked out???? And could be a similar issue to OP???
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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Need to add, when the break-away is pulled 99% of the time you get more than enough to lock the wheels. I go through that all the time on the lot. Transporters drop our trailers sometimes in the middle of the night and leave with the pin. No battery in the circuit or at best totally dead. Forget to check. Hook up 350 PSD and rag the locked wheels through the gravel.

It is really very easy to tell if the magnets are engaged. Clamp-on meter on lead to brakes on street side of trailer. No or almost no amps, no brakes engaged, when hitched.

Steve
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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ok thank you Monday I am going to have the brakes checked
 
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