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I was out driving today and my heat gauge went to *full hot* so I stopped and popped the hood nothing was hot.
When I got home I checked the thermostat and its working fine -but i lost my heat inside to checked the tailpipe no steam or water so what might be wrong -its a 1978 351-m
My thought would be to change the thermostat, sometimes they stick closed.. or open. they are cheap anyway. Around five bucks and the gasket is less than a dollar. Also the temp sensor may be going out as well. Never have trusted the stock gauges putting in Autometer Gauges in my truck has been the best choice so far I think.
Before you do that,
What did the fuel gauge do?
Did it rise up like the temp gauge?
If it did ,I would remove the cluster and clean all the contacts and the prinetd circuit on the back of it.
I had this problem you are talking about,it happened intermittently.
It ended up being a dirty printed circuit board and it was causing a temporary ground out.
i dont know about the gauge but if you have no heat try this. take off the heater hose's and put a garden hose up to it and flush it out. it may be clogged. if thats ok see if your heater control vavle is working. i just changed mine. if thats ok then you might have an air pocket in the block. the 351m/400 are known for this. i had a ford engine builder tell me when i fill the block take the top heater hose off when filling the block so the air can get out. when water starts to come out put the hose back on. than i always drill a 1/8 hole in the t-stat to let trapped air get out when it is closed. give that a shot.
Watch the pressure you put on your heater core with a garden hose. I can blow one up easily with the 125psi water pressure I have at my house.
Never expose your radiator system components to a pressure more than 1-1/2 times the normal cap pressure.
If you get a new T-stat get a Robertshaw unit.
Auto Zone part number 333-180 or 333-192 depending on the temp you want.
The RS unit does not have a place to drill a hole but it has a built in bypass port "bump" in the seat area.
The hotter you can get your truck engine to run the better your efficiency will be.
Stant thermostats are junk. I have had way to many fail within a year of installing them, some open, -some closed! Some just fell apart. I have run individual RS stats for 5 years with no problems. They are like Fords... Built Tough!
Last edited by Torque1st; Jan 29, 2003 at 03:47 AM.
My first guess would be it's low on water/coolant. When the water is low, the heat in cab is the first thing to go. Low water could also cause an airpocket at the top of the motor (where most temp sensors are) thus giving you a false reading on the guage. Or it could be low enought to make you actually overheat.
Definetly sounds like the water pump is shot. My 300 did the same thing. I was cruising down the highway and my heater began blowing cold air. I didn't think much of it untill I got home and noticed coolant leaking from the water pump. There was coolant spray all over the engine compartment. A new pump fixed it.
i think i found my problem t-sat was bad put a new one in it but still got a reading of full hot so i took the sending unit out of my 77-highboy and put it in and i get the correct reading now so thanks for all the help-plus the cap was bad