Electrical issues...
Electrical issues...
I have been having electrical issues with my rig lately, first off, I've got a dying battery. My headlight are very dim (probably because of the battery) but some other things too, the turn signals don't like to work with the headlights on, and they are sporadic at best with the running lights on. The flasher is new. Normally, (with the battery up to charge) the turn signals and running lights work great. I think thats about it. Could the battery be causing all these issues? Or could the headlight switch also be causing an issue? I know its kinda hard to tell from all this, but anybody had something similar happen?
Sam
Sam
When the engine is running, the entire electrical system runs off the alternator. The battery's only purpose is to crank the engine.
So, if you are having these issues while the engine is RUNNING, the alternator and possibly the regulator are suspect.
I would charge the battery, start the engine and take a reading of the volts at idle and a fast idle (like 2000 RPM) You would be looking at a minimum of 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Something around 14 is ideal. Anything in the 13s is rather low and anything in the 12s is toast.
With all the discharging of the battery it might be on it's way out as well. A good load tester could help determine to keep it or not.
Another alternative is to remove the alternator and battery and take them to a parts store where they can test both for you.
Josh
So, if you are having these issues while the engine is RUNNING, the alternator and possibly the regulator are suspect.
I would charge the battery, start the engine and take a reading of the volts at idle and a fast idle (like 2000 RPM) You would be looking at a minimum of 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Something around 14 is ideal. Anything in the 13s is rather low and anything in the 12s is toast.
With all the discharging of the battery it might be on it's way out as well. A good load tester could help determine to keep it or not.
Another alternative is to remove the alternator and battery and take them to a parts store where they can test both for you.
Josh
Ok thanks, I'll check those grounds, do you think running another ground wire from the body to the negative battery terminal might help?
The truck has a new fresh alternator (and regulator) on there, I think you helped me with some of my questions about the wiring. The main reason I'm suspecting the battery is, its taking a shorter and shorter amount of time to charge it, and discarge it. last time (from dead) it took and hour to recharge (10 amp charge), and I only got five starts out of it, (they were hard starts, but nothing that should tax it) In fact, it died in a friends driveway and we had to jump it to get it home.
Sam
The truck has a new fresh alternator (and regulator) on there, I think you helped me with some of my questions about the wiring. The main reason I'm suspecting the battery is, its taking a shorter and shorter amount of time to charge it, and discarge it. last time (from dead) it took and hour to recharge (10 amp charge), and I only got five starts out of it, (they were hard starts, but nothing that should tax it) In fact, it died in a friends driveway and we had to jump it to get it home.
Sam
Load test the battery after fulling charging it. You can also use one of those bubblers that check the acid for specific gravity if you choose.
If you do need a new battery (which I assume you will) buy the highest capacity you can afford. A 1000 CCA battery will be a lot happier in the long haul than a 650 and so on. Also, do not neglect any warranty that comes with it. I personally buy Wal-Mart Energizer batteries, awesome warranty and no-questions return policy as well.
Josh
If you do need a new battery (which I assume you will) buy the highest capacity you can afford. A 1000 CCA battery will be a lot happier in the long haul than a 650 and so on. Also, do not neglect any warranty that comes with it. I personally buy Wal-Mart Energizer batteries, awesome warranty and no-questions return policy as well.
Josh
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I would check grounds, I did some electrical to my truck this past few days, found out half my fuses didn't have power ( brake lights,signals,hazards,etc) so took off the fuse block looked on the back side of it and there was a big black power wire that suppose to connect to a tab was broken so I took out another bridge connector for the fuses off another fuse block and replaced it.Every thing works now accept back up lights! I'm a little stumped how those work I have a 1974 Ford F-100 with a 289 4 speed in it, not original! How would you wire in the original back up lights to this tranny? Thanks
I don't know if you'd be up for it, but if the battery doesn't solve your issues. You definantly need to check the security of connections related to your problems, and then if that doesn't resolve anthing, start checking your grounds for bad wires (check the resistance end to end) and then finally check your power wires volts traveling to each component, starting with your main power source.
Ok, thanks, yeah, I've got some more serious issues that I need to resolve first, like gas leaks..!
Gas leaks an electrical issues, not a good combination! I might be doing an engine swap too, so theres a lot going on.
Sam
Gas leaks an electrical issues, not a good combination! I might be doing an engine swap too, so theres a lot going on.Sam







