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we bought this truck from a guy who used it as a farm truck and i started reading on here about block cavitation (spelled wrong) and now im scared.... i dont know how long that antifreeze has been in there. how long does it take for this to happen.... needless to say i will be flushing this weekend well tomorrow. but what happens? are there any obvious signs? what are the remedies? i dont really know what to ask all i know is this scares me because we just rebuilt that front end ($1500+) and payed $1000 for the truck
When my 90 7.3 died the first sign I had was hydro locking when trying to start, depending on where the piston was when shuting the engine off. Another easy check is to loosen the oil drain plug and see if any coolant drips out, water is heavier than oil so the coolant will be on the bottom.
I have the same worries as you man....the guy I bought my truck from used it as a mud toy and really worked it hard..(he never really took care of it)..but when I got the truck the engine was already torn down (from a bad head gasket) just needed put together....so I really have no clue how it is going to run or if it has cavitation.....I guess if I get it together and it doesn't run or blows up I'll just go get a Detroit diesel or a DT360.
this stuff is nuts.... the truck runs but i dont want any issues.... ive wanted a diesel since i was old enough to ride in the semi with dad and now 15 years later i finally bought my own only to find out theres several easy ways it can become permenantly crippled (again i cant spell)
I know what you mean.....I had to have a diesel, even though I saw some big block fords for 1000 and where running I still didn't buy them, instead I bought a rough old diesel that didn't even run...but when it's up and going strong it will be worth it.
does anyone know the price of prestone heavy duty antifreeze concentrate not 50/50 at carquest? i know its different by region but roughly would be close within 2 or 3 dollars..... carquest sight sucks.....
i know i cant wait to get it on the road but im not going to insure it tell she's fully ready..... then gonna drive around town and show off in front of all the guys that thought id never finish it..... ahhhh motivation
ahhh thats not what i want to hear lol i know orielly sells there fleetguard for about 13 dollars concentrate and im hoping i can find some a little cheaper somewhere around here
first off don't buy the 50/50, get the straight antifreeze $9.00 a gallon. and mix it yourself. if you buy the 50/50 you paying about $8 a gallon for water and getting less antifreeze. if i remember right the 7.3 radiator holds 28L of fluid. Check on that number but if that is right that is equal to 7.4 gallons. That means you need 3.7 gallons of antifreeze and 3.7 gallons of water. If you buy the 50/50 you will have to buy 8 gallons at $13 a gallon for $104 or you can buy 4 of the good stuff for $36 and add your own water. Seems brainless to me. Also get those strips. Very inexpensive and you can get them anywhere. If the antifreeze is good i wouldn't change it but that is just me. Get some SCA and add that.
if the anifreeze is good, you are looking at about $30 for more test strips than you will use in the lifetime of the truck, and SCA. You can get the test strips and SCA at NAPA.
I would relax about it. I freaked out about cavitation when I learned about it too, but unless you have problems there is litterally no way to know affected your engine is by cavitation. It's kinda like eating steak, sooner or later you will probably have a heart attack, but no one can tell you exactly when, or even if.
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