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Ignition Switch Tumbler Issue

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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:41 AM
  #16  
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Did you try lifting up on shifter when turning back? Those ign seem to be pretty pricey mine was about ten bucks
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 01:35 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Lazy K
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ition-fun.html Read here. The post by BChance gives a diagram of the assembly and the proceedure to get at it.
Thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by deeznuts822
Did you try lifting up on shifter when turning back? Those ign seem to be pretty pricey mine was about ten bucks
I tried that and moving/wiggling the shifter up and down, there was no difference. Yeah, I know that I can get one for 15-20 bucks, but I would rather get a Motorcaft one.

I'm going to replace the lock cylinder soon. Hopefully, that fixes it.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 08:08 AM
  #18  
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Mine is doing a similar thing. Its really hard to turn forward some times, like the wheel lock is engaged so I have to back up to off and then go forward again to start it. However when I get out it dings like its in ACC position still,so I have to move it a bit with the keys out to get the dinger to stop...
however the other day I thought I would try turning it with out the key in to see how far it would go. I could start the truck with no key in the ignition. I plan to replace mine because if some one breaks in to take my cd player, and decides to try turning the tumbler....they get my truck to.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:00 AM
  #19  
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What do you mean dings like in the ACC position. The door chime should only ding when the keys are in the ignition and the door is open.

Mine has started initiating the door chime even when there are no keys in it.

That sucks about the no key start. Mine doesnt do that.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:33 PM
  #20  
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My new ignition lock cylinder arrived today. I got a Motorcraft set from NPD for the ignition and doors. I have an issue with the passenger side door lock and I didn't want to have to have 2 keys for the truck anyway. Later tonight, I will probably change it out and see if it fixes the issue. Fingers crossed.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 03:40 AM
  #21  
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I replaced the ignition lock cylinder and everything seems to be normal now. Hopefully, that was the issue.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 01:28 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TexasGuy001
If I buy a new one, I'm getting a Motorcraft one.

Does anyone know the difference between the 6 different lock cylinder part numbers on Rock Auto? Orielly is the same way.

Search for 'ignition lock cylinder' | O'Reilly Auto Parts

RockAuto Parts Catalog

MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2398 {#F3DZ11582C}
No. 3 Cut Letter C

$48.79 $0.00 $48.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2399 {#F3DZ11582D}
No. 4 Cut Letter D

$48.79 $0.00 $48.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2400 {#F3DZ11582E}
No. 5 Cut Letter E

$50.79 $0.00 $50.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2396 {#F3DZ11582A}
No. 1 Cut Letter A

$50.79 $0.00 $50.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW2397 {#F3DZ11582B}
No. 2 Cut Letter B

$50.79 $0.00 $50.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW6383 {Includes Tumbler #1L3Z11582A}
From 8/30/95

$58.89 $0.00 $58.89
Did anyone ever figure this out? I'm looking at getting a new tumbler as well but dont know what all the options are.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:44 AM
  #23  
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I don't know either, but this is what was in the box when I changed mine. Note the description at the head of key:

 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 11:58 AM
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So I'm guessing it's just the amount and depth of the tumblers making the key cut more complex?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:08 PM
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Beats hell outa' me. But it would "seem" so. This thread is the first I've seen where a parts supplier has called out those specifics. The locksmith I use & would ask is 20 miles away & too busy to call, but one these days I would ask if at the counter.

I just know those first 5-6 "stations" correspond to the ignition & the remainder are the doors.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 05:42 PM
  #26  
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its only 20 bucks.
 
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