Was out hunting truck was running fine parked and when we came back later the truck would not start. Whether the key is in the ignition set to the on or off position when I have the battery connected everything works, lights, radio, wipers ect... The issue is when I put the key in it is completely loose when I turn the key. I can get to the top of turning it like its going to turn on and there is some tension there like its trying to engage the starter but other then that its loose. I can push start the truck and once its running I cant turn it off have to pop the clutch. I thought it might be the key cylinder but that didnt work when replaced. When I looked into where the key cylinder goes when I had it pulled out the very back was the hole I am assuming the accuator rod or something connects to it was not there. So I am assuming its the rod or a cable that runs from there to the ignition computer. Am I correct in my assumption? If not can you help point me in the right direction

Thanks

 

On the back of the cylinder is a gear, that gear engages a rack setup that in turn pushes/pulls the rod that goes down to the actual electrical switch..I would start by pulling the switch off the column, and making sure the rod moves when you turn the key. Also check that the switch itself has not broken....and that the rod is actually not just sliding around in the switch itself..You will see what I mean when you pull the switch off the column....If the rod does not move with the key, you will need to pull the cylinder and check the cylinder itself, the gear and the rack.. something let go, it has to be one of those 3 components...switch, rod/gear/rack, or cylinder...

Good luck!

 

If you have a tilt sreering column, I'd guess the 90% actuator rod let loose. Going from memory #E9TZ-3E715-B.

 

The ign switch actuator gets my vote too.

 

If I am reading what you are saying correctly do you hear one click under the hood when you get to the end of the turning of the key?
If so I would replace the slip on spade connector down on the starter solenoid (not the fender relay).

 

Well its not a tilt column just a fixed so do you recall what part that would be for the fixed column? Dont think it is engine related since the key is loose like there is nothing connected any more to the cylinder.

 

Talking with some ford service repair places they think its the gear and slide assembly for the rod which is what bchance stated anyone know how hard that is to replace?

 

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


With Key

1. Disconnect the battery ground.

2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.

3. Remove the trim shroud halves.

4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.

5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON .

6. Place a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.

7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.

8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.



Non-Functioning Cylinder or No Key Available
FIXED COLUMNS

1. Disconnect the battery ground.

2. Remove the steering wheel.

3. Remove the turn signal lever.

4. Remove the column trim shrouds.

5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.

6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.

7. Remove the turn signal switch.

8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.

9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.

10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.

11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:

Flange

Lock cylinder assembly

Steering column lock gear

Steering column lock bearing

Steering column upper bearing retainer

Lock actuator assembly


12. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the truck starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.

 

Great post. It should be included in Tech Info. Rep points sent.

 

so the key on my 93 F250 seems to insert just fine, but will not turn at all...does that mean that I have to take the steering wheel off? Or figure out why it won't turn? Or make it turn somehow? Or drill out the pin? ARGH! Thanks

Timm

 

On your 93:
NOTE:
The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken lock cylinder key, unknown key number, or a lock cylinder cap that has been damaged and/or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove steering wheel as outlined.
3. Using channel lock pliers or vise grip pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from the lock cylinder.
4. Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approximately 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of lock cylinder. Remove lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing.
5. Remove retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting.
6. Carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation. If damage is apparent, housing must be replaced.

Installation
1. Replace lock cylinder housing, if damaged.
2. Install actuator and ignition switch as outlined.
3. Install trim and electrical parts.
4. Install new ignition lock cylinder as outlined.
5. Install steering wheel as outlined.
6. Connect battery ground cable.
7. Check lock cylinder operation.

 

I have the same problem as the OP do i actually have to Remove the steering wheel? its a 96 F-150 300i6 4x4 xl non tilt wheel

 

yes you do. Follow the steps given by BChance under "Non functioning Cylinder".

 

Hello,
I have the same problem as OP.

It is on a '96 F250, automatic transmission, no tilt steering, no airbags.

It looks like the pin on the upper ignition actuator arm has dropped off.

I've gotten to step 9 in bchance's guide, and have run into a problem.

The T-Bolts are off, and the assembly starts to pull off, but there is a rod on the bottom that connects the upper assembly to the lower point. There are two pins on this rod (it is more of a long flat piece), one on the upper part of the assembly, and one on the lower. It creates a sort of hinge, but prevents me from pulling the assembly off of the steering column shaft. I am not clear on how to remove the pins holding this hinging mechanism in place, and have not been able to create enough of a gap in between the assemblies to get to the actuator rods.

Any advice?

 

So went out to my truck turn the key turns on went to turn it off doesnt turn off pulled the fuse to get it to stop then disconnected the batter because everything was still on. Changed the ignition cylinder and nothing changed also feels very loose when i turn key almost like there is no resistance