I got a DUI dizzy from Performance Distributors, and I was wondering if anyone had any good ideas on where to hook it up to power.

It needs a switched 12v source non-resisted (so that leaves stock ignition wire out of the question) in the run position. I don't want to "spade" it to the front of the fuse box either, thats cheap to me. Could I unscrew the fuse box and hook into the back of that for a more permanant reliable hookup? Or anywhere on the starter relay (besides the starter terminal obviously ). I'm thinking either the R or I terminal?

 

Common, I know there are hundredes of gurus on here
Did I mention I'm asking because my hot naked wife needs to know?

 

Do you know how much current it's going to draw? Is the coil going to draw power from the same source?

 

Have you asked the folks at Performance Distributors? They might know...

 

They said just hook it up to your starter relay, but I read on here that Torque1st said not to hook it up there, but where was never stated. I thought I would try here since it's a 78 f150, that someone may know of a good place to hook it up to that would be clean, or had any good ideas.

I don't know the current, but it needs a full 12v and they say to use a 12 guage wire the enire length.

 

I have mine hooked up to the starter solenoid, whichever one was the switched terminal, works great.

 

As per DUI's instructions...

There are two methods we recommend for supplying power to the distributor. Your new DUI distributor requires a full alternator voltage. For those converting from a breaker point distributor, as in most cases, you must eliminate any ballast resistor or OEM resistance wiring to supply full alternator voltage. For full RPM operation, the DUI distributor requires 14.5 volts.

The first method requires running a 12 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the "BATT" terminal in the distributor. Make sure to connect to the correct terminal on the ignition switch, so that the power is supplied only when the key is in the ON position. Also make sure you have full alternator voltage and that any resistance is removed or eliminated.

The second method uses a relay, the old coil HOT wire, and a new 12 gauge wire to the positive side of the battery. With this method, you don't need to worry about removing or eliminating the old ballast resistors or resistant wiring. When the ignition is turned on, power is supplied to the relay, which activates the relay and sends full alternator voltage to the distributor via a new 12 gauge wire connected directly to the battery.
<TABLE border=0 cellPadding=0 width=307 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD width=303>


</TD></TR><TR><TD height=28>Stock wiring diagram




</TD></TR><TR><TD height=136></TD></TR><TR><TD height=14>DUI wiring diagram with relay


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Install a 12V-15A weatherproof relay to the firewall or inner fender. Connect the old coil HOT wire (usually red) to the proper relay terminal. Run a 12 gauge wire from the positive side of the battery to the correct terminal on the relay, and another from the relay to the "BATT" terminal on the distributor (using the clips supplied).
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width=385 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD width=381>

</TD></TR><TR><TD>Relay wiring diagram

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Awesome, thank you.

One clarification though, because I have already removed my ignition box and wiring with it.

There were 4 wires running from the ign. box (not counting the 2 wire plug from the ignition switch), 3 of those wires ran to the pick up, and the 4th went to the neg side of the coil correct? I ask this because I want to be sure that the wire I am thinking of that I am almost 100% positive ran to the hot side of the coil, is still in the truck, and that it wasnt removed with the ignition box. I like the relay way.