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What year model rearend can be swaped for my factory 49 F-1 rearend? I want to drive it up n down the interstate at 70 miles an hour. The 411 gears makes the truck tach to much to do that. So I was wanting like 327 or 355 gears in it. Please help I leave for training to go back to Afghanistan again in May, and need to have the rearend to the guy so while I'm gone he can finish my truck.
The closest thing to a bolt-in replacement is a Ford pickup 9 inch from 57-72. It will require some fabrication on the drive shaft and shocks but otherwise fits right in. These rears have a wide variety of ratios. If you are running the original engine I would think that something around 3:25 would be ideal...
The closest thing to a bolt-in replacement is a Ford pickup 9 inch from 57-72. It will require some fabrication on the drive shaft and shocks but otherwise fits right in. These rears have a wide variety of ratios. If you are running the original engine I would think that something around 3:25 would be ideal...
ok thanks man. yea I'm running the original flathead. I got a 5 speed to go in it so I already have to get another drive shaft. whats mods to the shocks are needed? I want it so It can go back to stock with as little headach as possible.
The 9 inch has a three inch diameter housing so your original U-bolts and lower shock mounts won't fit. If you could find a pair of F-2 or F-3 shock mounts they should fit the 3 inch housing, otherwise you need some weld on lower brackets. I believe you can get some at Summit or Jegs.
Make sure that if you go that route that you remove the existing shock bracket, get new round bottom U-bolts made and a holding plate to bolt down on top of the springs.
My PO tried to split and weld a spacer into the shock brackets to fit the larger tube. They won't hold.
When I went to have the lifting blocks removed from the back, my spring guy went to tighten those down and one broke on that weld - they are cast.
He told me I was lucky to be alive.
I just had new back springs put in the truck and am breaking them in (yes driving with NO shock absorbers at all in the back). In a few days, he is going to make new shock mounts and install them so they will be in the most advantageous position. He says the shock do nothing with the way they are mounted in the OEM configuration. And this guy knows what he's doing!
If you want to wait until then and remind me with a PM, I'll take pictures of what he did and send them to you.
Julies Cool F1 - I have a follow up question for you...
I have a 49 F2 that I want to put a 9 inch rear end in. Is there a rear end that will fit without the need to shorten axles etc? What about the shock mounts? Will I need to modify those as well?
I will be using a 351W/AOD setup in the truck, so I will also be getting a new driveshaft made.
Welcome to the forum, my question to you is, did you not read any of the thread before you posted? Your answer lies within, or you could do a search or read this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-for-fte.html
Forget about the search engine here really sucks!!!
I used a 1970 F250 rearend that was a DANA 60. Its the right size. It was basically a bolt in. Needed some shims to change the pinion angles, used my original shock mounts (ground off the ones from the 1970 DANA 60). Needed longer U-bolts, and a longer leaf pack bolt. I used the leaf pack bolt to mount a pinion angle shim. You may also need to check drive shaft and center drive shaft bearing. Your should have a two piece drive shaft.
After the install I could keep up with traffic, except my center bearing did not like the 70 mile an hour speed, an started to fall apart. I then limped home after puting it back together. Also may want to check toe in. The truck vibrates from 70 up. Got it fixed an it went away.
I used a 1970 F250 rearend that was a DANA 60. Its the right size. It was basically a bolt in. Needed some shims to change the pinion angles, used my original shock mounts (ground off the ones from the 1970 DANA 60). Needed longer U-bolts, and a longer leaf pack bolt. I used the leaf pack bolt to mount a pinion angle shim. You may also need to check drive shaft and center drive shaft bearing. Your should have a two piece drive shaft.
After the install I could keep up with traffic, except my center bearing did not like the 70 mile an hour speed, an started to fall apart. I then limped home after puting it back together. Also may want to check toe in. The truck vibrates from 70 up. Got it fixed an it went away.
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