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Fuel pump going bad?

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #1  
crzycrazycarl's Avatar
crzycrazycarl
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Mountain Pass
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From: Perkiomenville, Pa
Fuel pump going bad?

So my truck has been idling kind of crappy lately so I went and checked my fuel pressure. At the schreader valve i am only getting 40psi which I know is about 20psi too low. I checked the pressure a coulple months back and it was running around 60psi. The pump has been leaking out of the weap hole for about a year now and I just keep putting it off replacing it. What i'm wondering is if the pump going bad would decrease the pressure or could it just be the fpr needing to be shimmed? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #2  
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WALJON
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From: THUNDER BAY
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I would change the pump if it is leaking probably the problem
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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fordpride
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From: Livoina,La
you could shim the FPR to buy a little time but i'd say your pump is done
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #4  
crzycrazycarl's Avatar
crzycrazycarl
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From: Perkiomenville, Pa
yea i kinda figured the pump was shot, i can't beleive it has made it this long, i might try the fpr shim though just to see if it works.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #5  
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14psd
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From: troy, Mo
Originally Posted by crzycrazycarl
So my truck has been idling kind of crappy lately so I went and checked my fuel pressure. At the schreader valve i am only getting 40psi which I know is about 20psi too low. I checked the pressure a coulple months back and it was running around 60psi. The pump has been leaking out of the weap hole for about a year now and I just keep putting it off replacing it. What i'm wondering is if the pump going bad would decrease the pressure or could it just be the fpr needing to be shimmed? Thanks in advance.
I would just change the pump and be done with it. I also changed the high pressure lines also because they were dry rotted and cracked. I went to stealership and choked on the price they wanted. Then went to NAPA and had them redesign them a bit and now the driver's side 180* turn is all steel and not rubber like the last one. The cost for both was less than 1/2 the cost for one from ford! Oh one last thing I don't us a box wrench to take the banjo bolt off. I use a 1 1/4" socket to get it off and that works much easier/better for me.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:18 AM
  #6  
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FARM69
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From: Kearney, Nebr
Originally Posted by 14psd
I would just change the pump and be done with it. I also changed the high pressure lines also because they were dry rotted and cracked. I went to stealership and choked on the price they wanted. Then went to NAPA and had them redesign them a bit and now the driver's side 180* turn is all steel and not rubber like the last one. The cost for both was less than 1/2 the cost for one from ford! Oh one last thing I don't us a box wrench to take the banjo bolt off. I use a 1 1/4" socket to get it off and that works much easier/better for me.

Yep. You might as well replace all the hoses in the valley while you have the pump out.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:52 AM
  #7  
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Jacksfirstdiesel
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Originally Posted by 14psd
I would just change the pump and be done with it. ...Oh one last thing I don't us a box wrench to take the banjo bolt off. I use a 1 1/4" socket to get it off and that works much easier/better for me.
Me too. A 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, wobbler and an extension and you can get it from behind the turbo pedestal. Yes-do the blue fuel lines too. Might as well pull the FPR and filter bowl out and clean everything while you are there. stuff rags in the intake plenums so you don't drop a bolt in the intake!
 
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