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If the parking lights work then you should have power to the Ignition Switch.
The two Big Yellow wires going into the Ignition Switch should have power on them if the radio works if someone has not bypassed the Ignition switch for the Radio. You may have a bad plug for the Ignition Switch.
Check to see if you have power on the Red wire with a blue stripe (ST) and also the Red wire with a green stripe (I2) with the key in the start position.
Check to see if you have power on the Red wire with a blue stripe (ST) and also the Red wire with a green stripe (I2) with the key in the start position.
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im fairly sure i dont have power at teh key. cause when i turn the key nothing happenes, but if i by pass the solonoid (connect power and starter parts on solonoid) the motor will turn over but nothing happens...is there a way to just N rig the ignition so it can move 3 miles so then i can fix it at my friends house?
no idea...its a huge motor and it looked like the exact same ignition as my ford 351W i cant read any stickers on the motor cause its crammed in this little motor bay...
There are two small push on wires on the starter solenoid. One of then is for the coil of the starter solenoid (red wire with a blue stripe) and the other one is to run the selected fuel pump while the engine is cranking (Pink wire with a black stripe but some diagrams list this as a Red wire with a Brown stripe).
Making this wire hot will bypass the oil shutdown safety switch for the fuel system. It will also run the fuel pump in the default fuel tank I think this is going to be the rear tank. You will have to remove power from the wire to shut down the fuel pump when you are done running the engine.
Now the tank selector valve must also be lined up with the default pump running tank.
You need to put power on fuse #4 with the default tank selected on the dash to run the valve motor to the right tank. Once it is lined up you can remove the power from fuse #4.
Turn on the key and see if you have power on the red wire with a green stripe at the Ignition Coil. If you do put power on the starter solenoid small post that had the red wire with a blue stripe (ST at the Ignition Switch plug in the above diagram) and the engine should crank and start.
If you not have power at the coil then you will have to put power on the red wire going into the Dura Spark II module (I1 at the Ignition Switch plug in the above diagram). May also have to put power on the Ignition coil red wire with a green stripe while cranking to get it started (I2 at the Ignition Switch plug in the above diagram). You will have to remove power from these two wires to kill the engine. Make sure the fuel pump is running before cranking the engine and you have fuel at the carb and it squirts when you move the throttle.
Note the below diagram should be the way it is wired, do not go by the wire colors or the the fuse numbers.
An 1987 Class "C" RV with only one tank???
That would mean a 19 gal tank with a 460. Not good.
And the Ford part might be an 1986. What is the VIN number without the last four numbers?
I am not sure what you are working on, later ones had one big tank but they were a 1989 or newer with fuel injection and EEC IV Ignition systems.
An 1987 Class "C" RV with only one tank???
That would mean a 19 gal tank with a 460. Not good.
And the Ford part might be an 1986. What is the VIN number without the last four numbers?
I am not sure what you are working on, later ones had one big tank but they were a 1989 or newer with fuel injection and EEC IV Ignition systems.
least i think there is only 1 tank...there is only 1 filler neck...
OFF TOPIC: i love my neighbors class A RV its a nice rv lol
ON TOPIC: ill get the vin next time i go to work on the RV but what about the kill switch? where would it be hidden? cause i know if i was to set one up i would have it connected to the ign and fuel system..not the complete RV..
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