Cluth Flush
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
There is no compelling need except for removing water laden fluid which absorbs water over time.
I would. Drain the old fluid... then just refill and get all the air out.
Or for the lazies... open the drain at the bottom, and just fill and pump from top until it is clean at the bottom.
I would. Drain the old fluid... then just refill and get all the air out.
Or for the lazies... open the drain at the bottom, and just fill and pump from top until it is clean at the bottom.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
2 questions:
How long do you plan to keep truck?
How much do you mind replacing parts?
If you plan to keep 10 years or more and hate spending money on parts, you definitely want to flush the clutch fluid. The fluid is hygroscopic and is absorbing moisture. All reservoirs are vented, which means they do have at least some access to atmosphere and moisture. After just a couple years, the moisture level will be high enough to start corroding the inside of the master and slave cylinders. By 10 years, you have at least a 50/50 chance of one or both of them being so corroded you have to replace.
I flush every 2 years.
I've never replaced a single master cylinder, caliper, or slave cylinder in any vehicle I've maintained since new, even in the 20 year old/250K mile vehicles.
Flushing procedure is identical to brakes.
Suck fluid and crud out of reservoir
Refill
Open/close bleeder on slave and pump fluid through until clear and fresh.
How long do you plan to keep truck?
How much do you mind replacing parts?
If you plan to keep 10 years or more and hate spending money on parts, you definitely want to flush the clutch fluid. The fluid is hygroscopic and is absorbing moisture. All reservoirs are vented, which means they do have at least some access to atmosphere and moisture. After just a couple years, the moisture level will be high enough to start corroding the inside of the master and slave cylinders. By 10 years, you have at least a 50/50 chance of one or both of them being so corroded you have to replace.
I flush every 2 years.
I've never replaced a single master cylinder, caliper, or slave cylinder in any vehicle I've maintained since new, even in the 20 year old/250K mile vehicles.
Flushing procedure is identical to brakes.
Suck fluid and crud out of reservoir
Refill
Open/close bleeder on slave and pump fluid through until clear and fresh.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Darned good question, actually. Unfortunately all I have is the dumb answer of "I don't know!" because I couldn't find V10 with stick.... I'm stuck with auto.
Most likely, it will be on the side of the transmission near the bell housing. Follow the hose from the clutch master cylinder and it will lead you right to it.
There should be a bleed fitting near the top of it.
Most likely, it will be on the side of the transmission near the bell housing. Follow the hose from the clutch master cylinder and it will lead you right to it.
There should be a bleed fitting near the top of it.
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jgilrfr
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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