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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
Id sit a bed on there to check stuff out before drilling the holes and bolting it up.

the shackle angle will change with the extra weight.
I was wondering how long it would take for you to chime in.



Did the 460 swap catch your attention?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 75F350
Have you considered moving the leafs under the frame like a Yota? This will eliminate the bulky hangers, and will keep a clean transition to the spring. Some spring pockets or hangers can be made, and you can kill a ton of rate by moving the spring in towards the center of the axle.
Mucho flex can be achieved, and you will be able to run a killer long shackle. This will allow some killer compression and extension figures.
Heak this would even provide some lift, so you can eliminate the factory block.
The win win is the lack of axle wrap, improved articulation, and some simple attachment.
Downside is the small amount of time it will take to create the spring pockets in the frame, or fabricate the hangers, and shackles.
Might even be able to use a bone stock chebby 64 inch rear leaf pack with no block.
You will have all sorts of axle control without axle wrap and mad flex!
I can guarantee that you will have sooooooo much flex that you wont be able to mount a shock without cutting the bed floor to accomodate all of the travel.

I had never even thought of this. It is a good idea though! I'd like to do something different some time down the road, maybe this is it. Like to have it back together by the end of this month for a bog, then do the motor swap.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #33  
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Hardware.



Front hanger mounted.


 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #34  
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Hey Ed, how does that setup eliminate axle wrap?

I understand more leverage effectively makes the spring "softer" because they're inboard, but you lost me on no axle wrap.

Edit: Oh, do you mean because of eliminating the block?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:12 PM
  #35  
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negative ghostrider the pattern is full.


I dont know how this pertains to the conversation but I was watching Top Gun and felt it necessary to be posted.


carry on!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:14 PM
  #36  
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feeling a little retro homoghey tonight are we? You must have been thinking of your last adventures with Paul...
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ibleedblue1385
want me to take a pic of my nuts?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:23 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 75F350
Have you considered moving the leafs under the frame like a Yota? This will eliminate the bulky hangers, and will keep a clean transition to the spring. Some spring pockets or hangers can be made, and you can kill a ton of rate by moving the spring in towards the center of the axle.
Mucho flex can be achieved, and you will be able to run a killer long shackle. This will allow some killer compression and extension figures.
Heak this would even provide some lift, so you can eliminate the factory block.
The win win is the lack of axle wrap, improved articulation, and some simple attachment.
Downside is the small amount of time it will take to create the spring pockets in the frame, or fabricate the hangers, and shackles.
Might even be able to use a bone stock chebby 64 inch rear leaf pack with no block.
You will have all sorts of axle control without axle wrap and mad flex!
I can guarantee that you will have sooooooo much flex that you wont be able to mount a shock without cutting the bed floor to accomodate all of the travel.
i agree. i did it on the bronco and i love it! no bulky hangers, just hangs off the bottom of the frame!

-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:28 PM
  #39  
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pretty good idea....

maybe use this or build your own of a similar design:
63" Chevy Spring Swap [63swp] - $120.00


save yourself $12 by using PBB10 in the offer code box.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 02:39 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by captain p4
Hey Ed, how does that setup eliminate axle wrap?

I understand more leverage effectively makes the spring "softer" because they're inboard, but you lost me on no axle wrap.

Edit: Oh, do you mean because of eliminating the block?
Yeah bubba. The elimination of the block is what I was getting at.
Since the spring perch woul dhave to be moved, a longer one could be used to further support the spring and again help eliminate axle wrap, the axle could be placed in any position, and the complete package would be a very wise modification.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #41  
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Got the front hanger bolted up, everything is looking good.


Now to shorten the driveshaft...

I also need to find a temporary place to mount my fuel tank or fuel cell until I get a short bed box.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 08:50 AM
  #42  
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1 gal gas can under the hood?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by crazyredneckanyhow
1 gal gas can under the hood?
I've done that before.

I put the 40's on and took it for a spin earlier today. Gas tank is ratchet strapped to the back of the frame for now.

It looks good...pics coming.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #44  
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I still haven't made the cross members yet. Also need to redo the rear brake line, shock mounts, and shocks.

I'm gonna go see if she will flex...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #45  
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nice cobrajet badges, i had em on my 85 f150. told all the hilljacks i went to high school with, that my truck was a special edition f550 cobrajet. what do you have for a drive train in that one?
 
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