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The Tonka Re-Build Thread

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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #16  
ibleedblue1385's Avatar
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Originally Posted by fatdan460
i was about ask myself wtf was the tonka rebuild thread, and when did i post on it. so your gonna track this as a build thread now?

Yeah might as well.

It's getting a 460 swap as well. Maybe even a parallel 4-link, who knows? When I get bored, things start to transform.


Anyways here are a couple of pics of what I got done earlier today. The bed removed, exhaust taken off, shocks removed, and doing some measurements.



 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #17  
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From: Nixa
The show Trucks on Spike TV did this frame shortening on an old Chevy. You should be able to find the show on their website.
They did it like 79ford4x4 showed.

My 93 is yellow too, they look to be the same exact color yellow.
My frame is flat all the way back, I believe it was originally a cab and chassie truck.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #18  
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The idea is to not have a vertical weld running the entire length. What Alpha posted would work great too. How much are you lifting the truck? Looking at the frame if the lift is enough you might be able to just move the axle forward. The thing that comes to mind with that way is if you twist the truck enough, you might have some contact issues without the notch section right above the axle. Are you keeping the stock tank and location?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #19  
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Alright I've pretty much decided to just move the rear axle forward. MUCH easier in my mind and no welding to worry about. Couple reasons being that I am going with a fuel cell so the stock tank/location does not worry me. Also the truck is lifted enough (about 9") to not have to worry about the arch in the frame. I will also be making my own cross member for the last two on the frame, and boxing in much of the frame as well.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #20  
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Here is a quick snapshot of about where the axle will be located after the hangers are bolted up.

 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #21  
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FORD MUD TRUCK


you could have gone that route.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:16 PM
  #22  
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From: raymond alberta
Originally Posted by alpha/omega
I think I drew this up for Cheet-hoe or someone on here YEARS ago

Originally Posted by 79Ford4x4
The idea is to not have a vertical weld running the entire length. What Alpha posted would work great too. How much are you lifting the truck? Looking at the frame if the lift is enough you might be able to just move the axle forward. The thing that comes to mind with that way is if you twist the truck enough, you might have some contact issues without the notch section right above the axle. Are you keeping the stock tank and location?

QFT go this route keep you suspension where its meant to be...if you arent a good welder have someone do it for you...this would probably be easier to do because there would be no geometry to worry about and you arent introducing a ton of open holes in your frame...

but if you MUST move that axle forward fill any and all bolt holes by either welding them in or putting properly sized bolts in them, just to help you get some of the strength back
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #23  
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Your really not going to lose much strength in the frame having a few bolt holes here and there. I don't really know how hard the truck is wheeled, but for the most part it should be fine. Hell, i've seen trucks that have more holes than you can imagine and they held up.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #24  
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From: utica il
like 80-83ish fords with swiss cheese weight saver frames
 
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #25  
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I figure it will be plenty strong enough with some beefy cross members and boxed frame. There is plenty of holes though...don't imagine I will fill ALL of them.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #26  
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Made some minor progress today. Got the axle exactly where it needs to be, just need to run into town tomorrow and get the hardware to mount it all.

Also rear section of frame cut off.




 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #27  
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Id sit a bed on there to check stuff out before drilling the holes and bolting it up.

the shackle angle will change with the extra weight.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
the shackle angle will change with the extra weight.
much like the angle my mule changes when it slips out and slams your womans taint.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:40 AM
  #29  
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Mule?

She called it a miniture donkey
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:52 PM
  #30  
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Have you considered moving the leafs under the frame like a Yota? This will eliminate the bulky hangers, and will keep a clean transition to the spring. Some spring pockets or hangers can be made, and you can kill a ton of rate by moving the spring in towards the center of the axle.
Mucho flex can be achieved, and you will be able to run a killer long shackle. This will allow some killer compression and extension figures.
Heak this would even provide some lift, so you can eliminate the factory block.
The win win is the lack of axle wrap, improved articulation, and some simple attachment.
Downside is the small amount of time it will take to create the spring pockets in the frame, or fabricate the hangers, and shackles.
Might even be able to use a bone stock chebby 64 inch rear leaf pack with no block.
You will have all sorts of axle control without axle wrap and mad flex!
I can guarantee that you will have sooooooo much flex that you wont be able to mount a shock without cutting the bed floor to accomodate all of the travel.
 
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