Hey, on my 95 F150 (6" suspension lift) is the spring supposed to be sucked down tight to the axle w/ that center nut/bolt, or will it be able to move after everything is put together tight? Reason I ask is Ive taken the whole front axle pretty much out replacing the center and radius arm bushings, and my springs are NOT tight to the axle, they are able to spin and move around, even though the bolt is tight in the center... So, do I have a problem, or is it supposed to be like this? I looked on some parts websites, and no one seems to sell a replaceable bushing for down there.... Thanks for any help!

 

Anybody???

 

the springs should not be spinning around on the bottom isolator with it bolted down tight. When you put them back in you wont need a compressor with a lift like that) put the bottom nut on finger tight (sequence should be axle, stud, isolator, isolator bushing, coil spring, retainer cup, nut) then lift the axle back up until the top of the coil locks into the coil/shock tower, then you tighten the bottom down nice and snug. LMC truck sells everything you need for this job on page 128. The metal isolators never go bad...so don't wast your money unless they are cracked. The bushings are cheap and worth replacing. Good luck with it.

 

ya coil should not be spinning we are doing a 6 inch in my buddies f150 right now and i have a 6 inch in one of my Ford trucks and never had the coil spin on me after the nut and washer where tight.. also did you take the coil off or was it loose when u dropped everything out?

 

Thanks for the replys guys.
I have not taken the coil off the axle, it was loose like this when I dropped it down from the truck. And I dont know if theres gonna be anything I can do to fix it either, I dont have access to any air tools right now, and I cant get that center nut to budge, even with using a torch to heat it up

 

Even if you can't unbolt it heat it up red hot, be sure your heating it at the base (on the flat plate of the axle) you can also try and loosen up the front bracket and see if that works out. You won't be able to get a socket on it because of the length. If its really rusty especially in the threads just replace it, they cost 10 bucks. Cut about an inch of the top of the stud and then your deep socket will fit. I wouldn't use an impact tool on this because you wont be able to feel if the stud is about to snap off.

It takes a 1 1/8th size wrench or socket. Use some good penetrating oil, either PB blaster or an industrial penetrating oil that has Moly 855 in it (if there is a CLARK Forklift dealer around they will have it). Spray it liberally around the base of the stud and use the straw to get it under the stud through where the axle shaft is. Let it sit about a 1/2 hour, then reapply. Hit it with a Butane or Propane torch, acetylene if you have it. use the 12 point side of the box end and use a pulling motion; these studs have blue thread locker on them so they are hard to break loose but once you break it, it will come out. Try using a block of wood and a sledge hammer and bang it some.

Another trick is to get a wax candle and as you heat the stud up melt the wax right into the lower part of the stud. I know it sounds insane but it actually works as a lubricant. If you can post a pic in your next post so can see exactly how bad it is.