Calling Engine Gurus, Help with 302 Explorer Engine
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
D4 on the block means it's at least a '74 motor, but no the intake and distributor are 302 specific and will not transfer from the physically larger 351.
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
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A little info for you:
Your original engine block casting number decoded:
D4=1974
D=Maverick/Granada (actually anything that used a 302)
E=Engine
AA=2nd revision of the original core
3C18=casting poured 3/18/73
Most definitely a 302 car/truck/industrial/marine engine
Now, some thoughts for your new engine:
With the Edelbrock or Weiand intakes, my hallucination is that you should make around 250shp at 4,800rpm and have a completely reliable rig.
Have fun!
Larry
Your original engine block casting number decoded:
D4=1974
D=Maverick/Granada (actually anything that used a 302)
E=Engine
AA=2nd revision of the original core
3C18=casting poured 3/18/73
Most definitely a 302 car/truck/industrial/marine engine
Now, some thoughts for your new engine:
- GT40P heads are excellent for marine use.
- Explorer cam should be perfect for marine use. You want strong mid-range torque in the 3,000 to 3,500 rpm range for cruise and good power up to about 4,600 to 4,800 rpm WOT.
- If you are using this in anything other than fresh water, install brass freeze plugs in the block and heads or install fresh water cooling system $$$.
- In my opinion, fuel injection is way too complicated for a boat. You will need to install a fuel cooler or a fuel return to the tank. The marine distributor and ecu for the marine engines (OMC Cobra and Volvo) are hard to find and expensive as can be. I would use a carburetor like all of the ski boats do that use the small block Ford engine. If you operate in salt water, use a production Ford 4V cast iron manifold from a 289-302 non-egr engine. Your original manifold and carb should work fine if it was a 4 barrel. If not, you can generally find these on ebay pretty easily. If in fresh water, you can use an Edlebrock Performer 2121 or a Weiand Action +Plus 8124. Use a Holly 450CFM marine carb PART #: 0-80364 which is made specifically for the 302 Ford marine engine. Make sure you use the a PCV carb spacer, again, ebay is a good source for these.
- Use a Mallory 512CV marine distributor set at 10 degrees BTDC. You might want to use a Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower II coil to get the best ignition performance. Open the spark gap to 0.040" with that coil. If you use the roller cam, BE SURE TO INSTALL THE STEEL DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR on your distributor. Use the firing order for the new engine.
- Use a Barr Marine center-rise exhaust system with 4" risers. These are a good match for the heads and your Volvo drive.
- Make absolutely certain you use a marine fuel pump, alternator and starter/solenoid to prevent any risk of explosion. These should be usable from your old engine.
- Use your old cast iron timing cover with a new marine water pump.
- Use a new raw water pump, or at least a new impeller.
- Finally, the new engine is a 50 oz. externally balanced so you will need a late 157-tooth flywheel, Ford Racing M-6375-B302. Your new harmonic balancer should already be 50 oz. You may need to play with the crankshaft pulley and belt alignment I think there was a 3-hole vs. 4-hole pulley, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
With the Edelbrock or Weiand intakes, my hallucination is that you should make around 250shp at 4,800rpm and have a completely reliable rig.
Have fun!
Larry
Last edited by webeguessin; Apr 26, 2010 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Not complete
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