E-brake cable boot needed for repro
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,773
Likes: 169
From: Pt.St.Lucie , Fla.
E-brake cable boot needed for repro
Stopped by my buddy's machine shop thur.He has the precise machine to make the inside mold ( buck ) for the e-brake cabel boots . A 4 axis CNC .Here is the catch . I do not want to destroy one of the boots from a set of NOS e-brake cable boots that I have . One set is for the 1ST-RIDE & the other NOS set is for the stock truck.So I need some help . Does anyone out there have an e-brake cable boot in decent shape that I could have for the repro process .In exchange I will gladly give you one of the 1st sets of repro boots.This is the only thing holding up the repro process .Have all the other materials ready to go .
Thanks , Denny
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hey Denny!
I might! Are those the boots that are down under the truck where the cable splits and goes to the wheels?
I have two rubber boots on the trailer cables down there that I certainly don't need, and I think they are in OK shape.
Let me know.
I might! Are those the boots that are down under the truck where the cable splits and goes to the wheels?
I have two rubber boots on the trailer cables down there that I certainly don't need, and I think they are in OK shape.
Let me know.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,773
Likes: 169
From: Pt.St.Lucie , Fla.
Yes those are the parts in question .The picture makes them look larger . They are 3 " long and 7/8 " in dia. on the big end . They go over the clevis ends where the cable splits on the e-brake cable bell crank on the frame cross member .This is located rear of the cab on the frame . You would be the saving grace . Would owe you one big time . Maybe a new repro set for your truck ? Thanks , Denny
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hmmmm, I may be lying because after looking at the ones I have again, it's WAY different then th eone you are showing! I'm wondering if it was something added on as a substitute.
It appears that the cone section has been sucked back into the main part and it is about an inch in diameter. But it is not accordian like.
Here's a picture:
It appears that the cone section has been sucked back into the main part and it is about an inch in diameter. But it is not accordian like.
Here's a picture:
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: Gunbarrel, Co.
Stopped by my buddy's machine shop thur.He has the precise machine to make the inside mold ( buck ) for the e-brake cabel boots . A 4 axis CNC .Here is the catch . I do not want to destroy one of the boots from a set of NOS e-brake cable boots that I have . One set is for the 1ST-RIDE & the other NOS set is for the stock truck.So I need some help . Does anyone out there have an e-brake cable boot in decent shape that I could have for the repro process .In exchange I will gladly give you one of the 1st sets of repro boots.This is the only thing holding up the repro process .Have all the other materials ready to go .Thanks , Denny
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,773
Likes: 169
From: Pt.St.Lucie , Fla.
Julie ,thanks for the effort . The search continues .
Martin , he needs a mold of the inside , mill it in half then scan the profile of the inside into his CNC .If a good old one does not surface I my insert a 1/4 -20 threaded rod into a boot , fill the space around the small end with wax and fill it with REPRO -10 after coating he inside with a very light weight oil .That still does not gurantee that he mold will slip out of the NOS boot with out some type of damage . No way to determine if there is enough draft to release the mold and slip it off from the boot .
Making a mold of the outside profile is a piece of cake .Then one would still have to measure the wall thickness . The outside mold is made in 2 parts . Have that cradle figured out .
Any other input, ideas, and etc. would be welcome . Thanks for alls help so far, Denny
Martin , he needs a mold of the inside , mill it in half then scan the profile of the inside into his CNC .If a good old one does not surface I my insert a 1/4 -20 threaded rod into a boot , fill the space around the small end with wax and fill it with REPRO -10 after coating he inside with a very light weight oil .That still does not gurantee that he mold will slip out of the NOS boot with out some type of damage . No way to determine if there is enough draft to release the mold and slip it off from the boot .
Making a mold of the outside profile is a piece of cake .Then one would still have to measure the wall thickness . The outside mold is made in 2 parts . Have that cradle figured out .
Any other input, ideas, and etc. would be welcome . Thanks for alls help so far, Denny
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Spray or wipe the inside of the rubber boot with silicone spray. Fill it with casting plaster and peel the rubber boof off after it cures, shouldn't hurt the boot. Need something even more durable? Use a filled casting resin. Mix the resin with equal part of filler like microballoons before adding hardener. Go easy on the hardner so it doesn't get too hot.
If the inside of the boot didn't have enough draft and the rubber flexible enough, they wouldn't have been able to make them in the first place.
If the inside of the boot didn't have enough draft and the rubber flexible enough, they wouldn't have been able to make them in the first place.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: Gunbarrel, Co.
Julie ,thanks for the effort . The search continues .
Martin , he needs a mold of the inside , mill it in half then scan the profile of the inside into his CNC .If a good old one does not surface I my insert a 1/4 -20 threaded rod into a boot , fill the space around the small end with wax and fill it with REPRO -10 after coating he inside with a very light weight oil .That still does not gurantee that he mold will slip out of the NOS boot with out some type of damage . No way to determine if there is enough draft to release the mold and slip it off from the boot .
Making a mold of the outside profile is a piece of cake .Then one would still have to measure the wall thickness . The outside mold is made in 2 parts . Have that cradle figured out .
Any other input, ideas, and etc. would be welcome . Thanks for alls help so far, Denny
Martin , he needs a mold of the inside , mill it in half then scan the profile of the inside into his CNC .If a good old one does not surface I my insert a 1/4 -20 threaded rod into a boot , fill the space around the small end with wax and fill it with REPRO -10 after coating he inside with a very light weight oil .That still does not gurantee that he mold will slip out of the NOS boot with out some type of damage . No way to determine if there is enough draft to release the mold and slip it off from the boot .
Making a mold of the outside profile is a piece of cake .Then one would still have to measure the wall thickness . The outside mold is made in 2 parts . Have that cradle figured out .
Any other input, ideas, and etc. would be welcome . Thanks for alls help so far, Denny
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 956
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From: Bend, Oregon
Hmmmm, I may be lying because after looking at the ones I have again, it's WAY different then th eone you are showing! I'm wondering if it was something added on as a substitute.
It appears that the cone section has been sucked back into the main part and it is about an inch in diameter. But it is not accordian like.
Here's a picture:
Attachment 22409
It appears that the cone section has been sucked back into the main part and it is about an inch in diameter. But it is not accordian like.
Here's a picture:
Attachment 22409
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