Front end whine
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
Front end whine
Alright, a long time gone and needing some help.
93 F-150 4x4. Auto hubs. Whine is starting in the front end (I think), pitch seems to match with road speed but will lessen in intensity when my foot comes off the throttle.
Stuck hub(s)? I have used 4x4 recently and intermittently.
Low oil in differential? And does the differential oil also lube the shafts and or hubs?
After driving in 2wd for about 30 minutes then using hte 4x4 for about 10 minutes on a steep dirt road, the front hubs were hot to the touch. On the way home, after 20 minutes highway driving, they were very warm but not as hot.
Tips on where to start?
Thx...
93 F-150 4x4. Auto hubs. Whine is starting in the front end (I think), pitch seems to match with road speed but will lessen in intensity when my foot comes off the throttle.
Stuck hub(s)? I have used 4x4 recently and intermittently.
Low oil in differential? And does the differential oil also lube the shafts and or hubs?
After driving in 2wd for about 30 minutes then using hte 4x4 for about 10 minutes on a steep dirt road, the front hubs were hot to the touch. On the way home, after 20 minutes highway driving, they were very warm but not as hot.
Tips on where to start?
Thx...
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 2
The gear oil only lubes the differential on your front axle. I would start by checking out your wheel bearings. I have seen bad wheel bearings cause the problems you are describing. Check the wheel bearings, that's what I would suspect is causing your problem.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: PA, USA
Hot hubs are definitely not good. Warm are OK and probably even normal, depending on what you think warm is. If they are hot enough to make you jump when you touch them, that's too hot. Can you identify anything that's changed to make them run hot now? I mean, like did you recently service the hubs and put them back together too tight? Take the hubs apart and inspect bearings, races and spindle very closely. Be careful of possible sharp edges as you feel the races with your finger. Reinstall according to spec, don't just do it by feel. It's easy to get them too tight, which will make them run hot and possibly eventually fail.
Auto hubs are OK as long as they are working, but don't be surprised when they eventually fail, which they all do. I just finally replaced my autos at 105k with manual Mile-Markers. Love the manuals. No more unexpected "clunk" of the autos trying to engage at the wrong time which makes you feel like your front end is going to fall apart.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Auto hubs are OK as long as they are working, but don't be surprised when they eventually fail, which they all do. I just finally replaced my autos at 105k with manual Mile-Markers. Love the manuals. No more unexpected "clunk" of the autos trying to engage at the wrong time which makes you feel like your front end is going to fall apart.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: FORD COUNTRY --TEXAS--
I had the same problem with my truck it ended up being the u-joints so I replaced them all including the center bearing. That took care of the whine but the weird thing is testing out the u-joints (looking for endplay up and down side to side) showed they were fine and tight apon removal things were a totally different story they were all chewed up and had major scaring and pits. So beware that visuals are not enough.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
I had the same problem with my truck it ended up being the u-joints so I replaced them all including the center bearing. That took care of the whine but the weird thing is testing out the u-joints (looking for endplay up and down side to side) showed they were fine and tight upon removal things were a totally different story they were all chewed up and had major scaring and pits. So beware that visuals are not enough.
Get this...he said to just keep driving it, cause he's heard that sound before and nothing happened. I think I need a new mechie for the truck. He's been a wizard with the Taurus though.
Since the sound is new, definitely related to road speed and not engine speed, I'm thinking trans output or u-joints. Since u-joints are obviously the cheapest thing to throw money at, that's where I'm likely going next. It's been about 30 years, but I think I remember how to do them.
I'll be sure to post any updates or solutions. If anyone else has ideas, they're welcome to chime in.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
Update
Well, I took the beast in to a 4WD shop thinking that they would have expertise with damaged drivelines. The guy seems to know his stuff, drove it, put it on the rack and played with/inspected all the usual suspects, and used a needle type stethoscope to listen.
His conclusion is that the rear(!) pinion is worn or slightly damaged, and that the sound only appears to come from the front as it travels and echoes through the shafts.
He said I could drive it for a while as long as I don't do heavy towing, and listen to be sure the sound isn't getting worse. Quoted me $700 for a rear end rebuild.
At that price, I think I'll find the time to do the u-joints just in case, as they have the same miles as the rest of the driveline, and maybe I'll get lucky and he's wrong. If not, I'll be saving $50 a month for the rear end.
If anyone has more insight, I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, I'll keep updating as things occur.
Erik
His conclusion is that the rear(!) pinion is worn or slightly damaged, and that the sound only appears to come from the front as it travels and echoes through the shafts.
He said I could drive it for a while as long as I don't do heavy towing, and listen to be sure the sound isn't getting worse. Quoted me $700 for a rear end rebuild.
At that price, I think I'll find the time to do the u-joints just in case, as they have the same miles as the rest of the driveline, and maybe I'll get lucky and he's wrong. If not, I'll be saving $50 a month for the rear end.
If anyone has more insight, I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, I'll keep updating as things occur.
Erik
Alright, a long time gone and needing some help.
93 F-150 4x4. Auto hubs. Whine is starting in the front end (I think), pitch seems to match with road speed but will lessen in intensity when my foot comes off the throttle.
Stuck hub(s)? I have used 4x4 recently and intermittently.
Low oil in differential? And does the differential oil also lube the shafts and or hubs?
After driving in 2wd for about 30 minutes then using hte 4x4 for about 10 minutes on a steep dirt road, the front hubs were hot to the touch. On the way home, after 20 minutes highway driving, they were very warm but not as hot.
Tips on where to start?
Thx...
93 F-150 4x4. Auto hubs. Whine is starting in the front end (I think), pitch seems to match with road speed but will lessen in intensity when my foot comes off the throttle.
Stuck hub(s)? I have used 4x4 recently and intermittently.
Low oil in differential? And does the differential oil also lube the shafts and or hubs?
After driving in 2wd for about 30 minutes then using hte 4x4 for about 10 minutes on a steep dirt road, the front hubs were hot to the touch. On the way home, after 20 minutes highway driving, they were very warm but not as hot.
Tips on where to start?
Thx...
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 973
Likes: 2
From: Texas
The sound your describing definably sounds like rear end whine. $700 seems like alot. You may call and ask how much they charge to set up a rear end($300 or so) And see if you can find ring and pinon and a rebuild kit for less then the 400 dollar difference. It might save you a little.
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I had the same sound out of my 95 f150 4x4 with auto hubs. the left front hub locked itself up, and was whining. the right front hub was a complete pile of rubble inside of the hub assembly. Manual hubs fixed that problem.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
Bump/Update
Well, I finally just took it in to the 4wd shop. The good news is that my work is picking up so that I had no time to work on it myself, and also had some cash to pay for repair. The bad news is that it cost $900 to replace pretty much everything in the rear diff except the ring and pinion...the bearings and spider gears were shot and the right axle was scored and was replaced.
But it is quiet, and I swear the truck just plain moves out better. Thanks for all the help guys.
Well, I finally just took it in to the 4wd shop. The good news is that my work is picking up so that I had no time to work on it myself, and also had some cash to pay for repair. The bad news is that it cost $900 to replace pretty much everything in the rear diff except the ring and pinion...the bearings and spider gears were shot and the right axle was scored and was replaced.
But it is quiet, and I swear the truck just plain moves out better. Thanks for all the help guys.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: CA Central Coast
But what goes around comes around...at home I charge $50-$60 per horse for a barefoot trim, but right now in Southern Oregon I'm at a ranch doing them for $25. Some farriers charge even less.
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