5030 - let us know what you find out with the scales. Did your RV dealer setup the Hensley configuration for you?

Rob - From my understanding, the recall to specifically E range was due to the fact there is a significant difference in capacity ratings between tires. So - Ford can't rely on the average consumer to get a good weight rating on each corner. I'm towing a 10000 boat on D's with no issues - no wander and no stability concerns.

 

Just a suggestion... When you go to the scales, unhook the trailer and get the actual dry weight. My Outback weighed almost 1000#'s more than the stated dry weight. My actual tongue weight was 150#'s more than was stated. Most rv manufactures don't include appliances, ac, awnings, etc into the actual dry weight of the unit.

 

THanks Stewart!!,
I have only been on the FTE board a short while, but already have found lots of things here that are not on TDS. I was not aware of the documentation on the Ex page, but I have the V's and "caryt" modified B's with Summit Leveling kit and 350 rear blocks on my EX. I also have the Landyots (weld on version) as well as the 33mm camperspecial rear sway bar. I love how my Ex handles now, and it tows my 32' TT GREAT!!! Also love my Dual-cam hitch. Wouldn't pull and long trailer again without it!!
I hope this helps our OP with his problems of towing, I used to be a white knuckle driver towing with my EX, but not any more!!
Garry in Alaska

 

The allure of the Hensley Arrow hitch is no sway. Nothing more. It's not sway control. It's sway prevention.

 

You're welcome. And welcome to FTE.

I obtained the well known Excursion spring chart from Bruce only after I'd done my spring swap years ago. Back then, W codes weren't really mentioned and the modified B's weren't well known. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with W codes up front and B codes out back, with the tapered blocks, RAS, Hellwig, and Bilsteins on all four corners.

Stewart

 

Prior to purchasing this hitch and trailer, I had posted under a thread called "RAS and weight distributing hitch requirements". While in this thread I accidentally stated that I had RAS installed when I should have stated that I had ordered the RAS, one of the posters wrote of his horrible experience post-RAS install. This post prevented me from installing it prior to the trip (given that I needed a WD hitch just anyway).

Now that I have 600 miles of towing under my belt without the RAS installed, but with the Hensley Arrow hitch with built in WD capabilities, I am convinced that there has to be a better solution. I purchased the hitch from an individual, not a dealer. I installed the hitch myself, meticulously following the directions. I measured the front and rear bumper heights before hooking up and ensured that the front didn't pop up into the air, nor did the rear sag after WD was applied. Using the built-in adjustments to the Hensley struts on either side of the hitch, I ensured that the hitch was installed square to the front of the trailer within 1/16". While the next step is indeed a trip to the scales, I don't know what more I could do other than start replacing things. The truck sits perfectly level with the Hensley installed and WD tension applied.

I cannot imagine that E range tires will prevent my front end bouncing when I have a full tank of fuel, but can see how stiffer shocks could.

I cannot imagine how installing an upgraded anti-sway bar could help when I have no sway.

I suppose the real question is whether there is value in installing the RAS, or whether I should, as X-HEMI-GUY suggests in another post, install the shocks first. I suppose the other question is whether I should just give up now and install the F250 springs along with shocks and the RAS to avoid any and all doubt that there isn't more I could do.

 

As I stated earlier the air bags helped me out. Fill with 35lbs pressure then attach trailer and WD.
And there are those that swear by the RAS.

 

5030, Personnally once you do the springs, you will wish that you had done them sooner!

Stewart, I love my Bilstiens, and think that they were worth the money!
Garry in Alaska

 

5030 - The stiffer shocks will help with overall control but wont give you any 'support' or 'lift' like stiffer springs or air bags. Adding the F250 springs will help with the overall balance of the rig under load and driving conditions. And you're right - E rated tires aren't going to do anything in your case.

 

This is, I suppose, the question. Some have said that the RAS adds 2000# of rear spring strength. It seems that inadequate spring strength has at least some play here since things got so much less stable with the full tank of fuel. Adding the RAS, however, should not (I would think at least) have any bearing on the bounciness of the front end (though that bounce was only exhibited with the full tank of fuel).

 

How can weak rear springs make the front bounce?

Leverage. Tongue weight is a good bit aft of the axle which becomes a pivot point. When the rear dips it makes this worse.

Tighter front shocks may help. See if that makes it OK for you, it's fairly cheap. If not, heavier springs all around, whichever method you choose to do it.

My Ex is kind of a low rider, 4 soft springs and Monroe shocks. It rides great, nice soft ride. It's OK towing 7k. If I had to tow more I would have to replace the springs, and live with a stiffer ride. It's very subjective.

 

I'm planning to try the RAS first (since I own it and just need to install). I am concerned about having to then turn around and pick up a different height hensley draw bar, though, since others have said that I will gain 1.5" in the rear.

Then, of course, if I do that and THEN have to add the F250 springs, I'm guessing I'll be stuck getting a DIFFERENT height draw bar. Argh. Hensley needs to make an adjustable bar. Oh well.

 

My Excursion has Michelin M/S E rated tires and I pull a 9500# car trailer and a 7500# travel trailer. I have no suspension modifications and tow with a standard equalization hitch. I have absolutely no stability issues and the Ex is rock solid when towing. There's a possibility that you don't have enough tongue weight on your trailer and weight biased toward the rear will make for a real nightmare towing.

Also, I once had an E250 Ford work van that had it's original E rated tires replaced with D rated. I made one trip on the Interstate with it and it was all over the road. I took it back and had E rated tires put on it and it was once again very stable.

 

Bill, that too was my experience with the D's, one trip and went back to the E's and no other variables and it was fixed....

but I'm no expert like some, just my experience

 

I vote for air bags since I have them and they make the rear end of my Ex stiff, no drop when I hook up the hauler! They really work outstanding for stiffening up the rear, I keep mine at 80PSI when towing and the Ex is solid while towing! As far as tires go, E-rating is what you want! I don't care if a D has a similar weight rating D's do not inflate up to 80PSI max. A tire at 80PSI versus 65PSI is going to be much harder and not flex simply because of the inflation pressures. As the ratings go up so do the pressures. Pressure and tire design work hand in hand in allowing a tires weight rating to increase! I installed Air bags, Rancho 9000XL's, dual steering stabilizers, Load E BFG's inflated to max PSI, and mine tows great! Before all of those parts mine was seriously horrible to tow with, since all the mods, it's no more white knuckle towing, and I am towing the max 11K with my Ex. If you look in my gallery you can see the stance of my Ex while fully loaded with my Polaris Ranger and half of a tank of water......