When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The NGK V-power spark plug might be the best for our Broncos. A friend who is a Ford mechanic has had better luck with them than Motorcraft copper. He said the NGK V-power is less likely to crack and develop carbon tracking.
Try 'em and tell us all what you think! What is the electrode made out of? I ask because copper is about the sturdiest conductor you are gonna find in a spark plug. Gold would be better if it wouldn't drip out the bottom of the plug from the heat.
And exactly what conditions is he seeing this propensity for good ol' Motorcraft coppers with increased failure rate due to cracked insulators or fouling from carbon tracking... I mean, if you are running the right temp plug you shouldn't be seeing these issues unless you have some other tuning issue or some condition that is preventing the plug from running at its optimal self-cleaning temp. (Which is somewhere in the 500-800*C range).
Guess maybe I've tired of continually trying the "newest thing" when the basic design characteristics of a common spark plug haven't change for the better in 50 years or more. So you can build a better mousetrap.. or is it just shinier and made of something no mousetrap has ever been made of before?
The mechanic was a Ford service manager and now manages a shop for a huge fleet of ambulances. He suggested the V-groove when I asked about my 35 mph, 1,700 rpm light throttle missing. He had seen carbon tracking on Motorcraft and changing plugs solved the problem for someone. I have seen nothing sparking under the hood on a foggy night.
Ok, so we are talking about a part-throttle, under heating issue most likely. That makes sense. If you do a LOT of driving that way, you could try one temp range hotter with your regular plugs as well. At those rpm and that low cruising speed all the time, the tips most likely aren't heating to their "Self cleaning" temp leaving you with the carbon fouling issue. I only suggest it because as I understand it the V-power units aren't inexpensive. But then again, I'm not the one who has to pay for them so I'd say see how they do.
Its funny, in the avaition industry, they make fine wire platinum plugs. I can vouch for them. I think the fine wire (about the size of brush bristle) is made of real platinum. They vertually never foul and never ware out. I've run one set for over fifteen hundred hours. They still look and run good. They cost about 50 bucks a plug which sucks when you need 8 for a four cylinder engine. (duel ignition)
But the platinum plugs you buy for cars look nothing like them. Maybe the platinum is just a name. You cant get the avaition plugs for cars, so I run Boash. I dont think they are any better than stock, but they are the shortest plugs. That makes them good for shorty headers.
Consider the fact that with the cost of platinum, and you KNOW your aviation plugs have a pure platinum core... what do you think the likelihood is that the automotive plugs have a pure platinum core as opposed to a platinum plated core of some other less conductive metal? Or perhaps a platinum tip with some lower grade metal between it and the top? They can claim platinum... they don't necessarily have to tell you how MUCH of it.
I never tried them in any of my trucks,but have always used them in my motorcycle/jet ski and boat engines with great success. The ability to clear them self once they load up with fuel and not just foul out is the reason I stick with them in those applications.
Well I gambled today and tried the NGK V-Power (copper) plugs. I have been chasing a 1700 rpm light throttle miss for years and it cured 90% of it. Now, there is a reason it ran so bad. I checked gaps on the Motorcraft coppers as I removed them and found one .0050, two .055, one .053, one .054, two .055, and one .058. The .053 and wider are not as pretty as the rest and show some carbon.
The NGK came gaped at .035 and I changed them to about .048 for my coil and wires. My sticker shows .044.
The result is the best thing I have ever done except replacing the oxygen sensor. However, the passenger side plugs become less fun as I get older.
Now it is hard to hold 35 mph 1700 rpm because it wants to shift to 35 mph 1300 rpm. The engine likes the new plugs and the exhaust is not as rich smelling. Highway test coming Saturday.
Now, I am not worried about making it with the generators for the Whispering Farms Music Festival Saturday. If you are the area it is for a great cause. There will be eleven musical groups and all the crawfish you can eat. Login | Facebook
I always run motorcraft/autolite plugs in my fords, Bosch seem good too, never had luck with NGK's in one, always seemed to have a miss. Ngk's always work great in a jap car or atv though, kinda strange.
TxFireFghter, Yes. One observation on the NGK, when setting the gap, the ground electrode is easy to bend. Motorcraft are hard to bend. I'm also wondering if the tips of the "V" will wear faster than a standard plug and I will report on that when replaced. Before replacing the plugs I changed the timing from 11 to 10 and then to 12btdc and it ran a little better. The plug change (any plug would be an improvement) made a HUGE improvement.
I still have a miss (not near as bad now) at 1700 rpm in neutral, at 35mph and the missing at 52mph is almost gone now. Don't know if it is sensitive to that rpm or maximum vacuum. Would the fuel pressure regulator cause that? It only has 190K miles on it.
Would the fuel pressure regulator cause that? It only has 190K miles on it.
ONLY 190K? I dunno, you think that little vinyl diaphragm has gotten a lil' brittle over the thousands of gallons of fuel passing over it? I'm not one to tell anyone to replace something that is still working properly but if that is the one part of the system that remains that old, there certainly is a distinct possibility that replacement might help if the miss gets to be too annoying.
Yes, the FPR and the MAP are all that are original..and the fuel pump. I'll let the computer "learn" about the new plugs awhile then decide on a FPR. The fuel pressure gauge readings looked good a year ago. Another check may be in order.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.