I was driving down the road today ( a nice 70 degree ) and I turned the A/C. The air coming out of the vents was not cold at all. I let it run a bit to see if it would get cooler but it did not happen the I started to smell a burning smell so I turned it off and when I got home and opened the hood while idling I tried to turn on the a/c and the a/c clutch would not engage. If the compressor is toast can it be rebuilt??

 

Most likely just needs a shot of freon ...

 

Like action said ,might just need freon.There is a low pressure switch that keeps the clutch from engageing when the freon is low,this protects the compressor.Yes you can buy rebuilt compressor.
Jim

 

Put in the freon w/ dye so when (not if) it leaks out again you can see where it's leaking from. Some have a bright yellow dye visable to naked eye, & some you need a special light & glasses to see. Then you'll know what connection, gasket, seal, or O-rings to replace.

 

If you smelled a burning smell then that sounds like the clutch on the compressor fried. Those things will really put out some smoke when they do.

To test it, turn on the ac and pull the wire connector off the low pressure switch then jump it with a paperclip for a couple seconds. The clutch should engage if it's working right. If not then it's either bad wiring or bad clutch. If it starts smoking again then bad clutch. You should make sure the compressor can turn by hand before doing this.

 

Another way to test is to turn the clutch by hand, with the engine off of course. If it's seized, you'll have to replace. I've heard they're rebuildable, but don't know how compilcated it would be.
Since you're already there, now's a good time to replace the evaporator, and orifice tube.

 

I would probably put a paycheck on bad connection. If you look at the compressor, on the top of it is a plug with some wires in it. That connection at the plug is notorious to loose it's connection. Take the plug off and clean both sides. Tighten up the female side if you can and put it back on.

Mine did the exact same thing as what you described but sometimes mine would work then quit then finally it just quit altogether. That connection also gets alot of abuse since it is on the top and is a typical place to rest your hand etc.

Give that a try before you do anything else. Chances are it will be a free fix and no freon!

 

Why would you want to replace the evaporator?
Or the orifice tube for that matter unless you have to open the system for some reason. You don't have to dump the freon to change the clutch.

 

Freon is a brand name for Refrigerant made by Dupont. Only replace the evaporator if it leaks somewhere besides the connections. the "orfice" which is also known as the metering device need not be replaced unless it is damaged in some way. the evaporator will go back to working great by cleaning its exterior heat exchanging surfaces. if theyre actually dirty. do not put anything through the tubing other than refrigerant and or compressor oil. water is bad. if even the smallest amount of water or even water vapor gets inside the refrigeration tubing all bets are off. you would have to dehydrate the whole system which is a very complex endeavor requiring specialized tools and large quantities of nitrogen. I would say your problem is most likely a refrigerant leak. typically the compressor shaft is what leaks but since they went with these o-ring connections those tend to leak too. refrigerant leak detector is what you need. "dyetel" or other dyes dont work all that well on small leaks. if your system is completely flat or empty of refrigerant simply dumping a can of refrigerant in might get it to blow cold for a little while. but you need to fix the leak, then pull a full vacuum on the system. then weigh in the correct amount of refrigerant. this is the only correct way. "dumping the freon" is illegal and could get you a hefty fine. if you get liquid refrigerant on your skin it will burn you. by burn I mean freezer burn. it does not feel good at all and will leave a scar. it needs to be pumped out by a recovery machine and recycled. if you dont know what youre doing, this is best left to a pro who is EPA certified to handle refrigerant. this is one thing that is not a DIY project.

 

R 12 is illegal , 134 is not . It can be exhausted to the atmosphere .. Kits for 134 are available to joe public ,everywhere , just like R 12 used to be. (gotta protect that ozone layer ya know)...

 

if you vent R-134a to the atmosphere you would be in direct violation of the clean air act and subject to fines. trust me on this. this is what I do. further if you knowingly introduce refrigerant into a system that you know leaks, it is the same as directly venting it. R12 is not illegal to possess and use. it might however be illegal to manufacture. its no longer made because of the CFCs (chlorinated fluorocarbons) which deplete ozone in the upper atmosphere causing increased ultraviolet light to reach the earths surface. UV causes skin cancer. skin cancer is deadly.

 

Mine has a small leak for 4 years now i have to add a can once a year it's alot cheaper to add the one can than to take the system apart

 

I would also like to add just for safetys sake that most refrigerant is heavier than air and displaces oxygen. you need oxygen to live. if it gets displaced by refrigerant you could suffocate in an enclosed space. also if it gets IN your lungs, being heavier than air, you wont exhale it easily. so with less lung capacity for breathing you could still suffocate. be carefull working with this shlt. it is no joke. if it comes in contact with a flame or heat source it will break down into a toxic gas that could kill you.

 

They sell 134 to the public ...

[QUOTE] Refrigerant Sales Restrictions

The sale of ozone-depleting refrigerant (such as R-11, R-12, and R-22) in any size container has been restricted to technicians certified either under the program described in Technician Certification above or under EPA's motor vehicle air conditioning regulations. The sales restriction covers ozone-depleting refrigerant contained in bulk containers, such as cans, cylinders, or drums.

The restriction excludes refrigerant contained in refrigerators or air conditioners with fully assembled refrigerant circuits (such as household refrigerators, window air conditioners, and packaged air conditioners), and HFC refrigerants (such as R-134a and R-410A).[ /QUOTE]

 

You are going to need to show me where it is the law as it pertains to 134 (you are sadly mistaken ) that is why it was developed ...R 12 is still being produced all over the world , just not here ...Prove it ....