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that applies to Hermetic (completely sealed with no access ports for adding or removing refrigerant) systems that are manufactured with the refrigerant already in them and are not serviceable. you dont have to belive me Action4478. you do what ever you want cause you are a smart guy. have fun.
that applies to Hermetic (completely sealed with no access ports for adding or removing refrigerant) systems that are manufactured with the refrigerant already in them and are not serviceable. you dont have to belive me Action4478. you do what ever you want cause you are a smart guy. have fun.
that applies to Hermetic (completely sealed with no access ports for adding or removing refrigerant) systems that are manufactured with the refrigerant already in them and are not serviceable. you dont have to belive me Action4478. you do what ever you want cause you are a smart guy. have fun.
Wow did not think this topic would get that much response to it !! I think it is my clutch that is seized. When I turn on the A/C the clutch does not engage and the burning smell is the belt being slid over the pulley that is not turning. I tried to fill it with some freon but it said pressure of system was OK.
Sounds like your problem, good find. At first I was going with Neil because that's exactly what mine did. I cleaned the plug and repositioned the wires and it has worked fine ever sinse.
Wow did not think this topic would get that much response to it !! I think it is my clutch that is seized. When I turn on the A/C the clutch does not engage and the burning smell is the belt being slid over the pulley that is not turning. I tried to fill it with some freon but it said pressure of system was OK.
It sounds more like the pump seized . If the belt only burns when you engage the clutch..
Make 100% sure that the pulley is not turning. The clutch can be disengaged and the front of it will look like the pulley is not turning. The pulley is behind the clutch. You may have to make a mark on the grooves on the pulley then watch that mark with the enging running. You will be able to tell for sure.
Now if in fact the pulley is definately not turning and the belt is slipping and squeeling then it is not the clutch. It is the compressor.
If the pulley is turning then and the clutch is not it could be your clutch. If so the first thing I would do is what I described in my last post and clean/tighten the contacts on the connection of the plug. This happens an awful lot. Very frequent problem.
If that doesn't fix it I would verify it is not a bad connection. Then you probably need a clutch.
I still put money on the connection. Have you tried that yet?
P.S. Rick, Were you trying to start a fight back there? LOL
Started getting a bit off topic. Back on now. Man I like busting your chops. LOL
It is illegal to knowingly dump ANY refrigerant containing Chlorine, basically any refrigerant except on some old time refrigerators and camper refrigerators made today. Then you get into other laws concerning those. The new 134A contains flourine which is covered under the same laws as ones containing Chlorine and it's use and disposal is governed by the EPA.
With mobil air conditioning systems you are allowed to have diminimus loss like when you have a little squirt taking off your hoses or purging air from the manifold hoses but that is it. You are not allowed to dump any refrigerant into the air. All of it used in cars is to be recovered with a recovery machine. That is the law. I've got an EPA universal certification, Imaca and ASE and have taken the tests. I've also had to take CEU's over the years to keep my epa license current. You guys really need to know the law before jumping on someone here saying they don't know what they are talking about. That's just not cool.
Ken, I think it was you that said water is bad, I agree, but you also said you need expensive equipment and nitrogen. Well, not really. Nitrogen really only needs to be used to check for leaks on big systems like huge reefer units that hold more than 2 or 3 pounds of refrigerant. I worked on a lot of them that held more than a hundred pounds and we always tested the system overnight with nitrogen.
On small Mobile systems like in cars the diminimus loos rules apply. You can do a small charge of the right refrigerant and test with normal leak detectors. But you do still have to pull a vacuum, hold it for the required amount of time and all that. This reason alone is why I get so bent out of shape with people just adding cans to their system. Every time they do they introduce air to it. Air containing moisture. It's amazing how much better the ac would work after it's been recovered down, vacuum pulled on it to remove all the air and non condensables and then recharged properly. You should be ale to darn near hang meat in these trucks if everything were right on the ac systems. I know you can in mine. Even at idle.
As for buying 134 over the counter it may be legal to buy the small cans and I believe even 30 pounders now without a license, Anyone that tries to recharge one at home though is stepping on so many epa laws that all it would take is a stupid neighbor calling and turning you in. Noone wants to tangle with the EPA. I've seen small shops get fined before for not having a working recovery machine and I've seen military get huge fines before over stupid stuff. They don't care who they go after.
funzjb1, How did you try to fill it with freon if the compressor wasn't turning? Man I really don't recommend that. You have to get some in it if it's empty but if it's empty you need to get a good vacuum on it first too. Charging it you go by those gauges red blue and green marks or good or bad either. You really need to know the high and low pressure cutout settings and where the relief valve blows on these things and charge it right. I think that valve blows around 400 on the high side. Or 425. Something like that. On a hot day with a proper charge it gets up in teh 350-400 psi range so it runs pretty close already.
Just don't over charge it is all I'm saying. Please verify that problem and fix it first. I don't want to see you get a face full of 134 when the valve blows.
And always charge it with the engine and ac running and ambient temp at least over 70. Preferably over 80. The higher your ambient temps go the higher the system pressures go.
The problem may be that , it is illegal for a certified , licensed tech to vent to the atmosphere , but does not apply to a shade tree (for lack of a better word)mechanic or home owner . Most likely due to the potential volume difference .
Florine does not contribute to the destruction of the ozone layer , more likely causes increase in green house gas & increased acid rain . BTW,,I have looked into the law ...
It is illegal. I would not post what I did if I wasn't looking out for you people.
I never said fluorine was harmful to the ozone, it isn't, but it is harmful to you. Don't breath too much of it or else. I personally don't believe in R12 causing damage to the ozone either but to talk about that gets into politics and politicians looking for ways to steal more of our money. I would not do that on here. It's against the rules I think.
I was in my engine room once when the halon system was accidentally set off. 6 other men were down there too. It is several big banks of bottles containing halon 1301 (triclorotriflouromethane) I believe. When the system is activated all of them dump instantly to smother the fire. It's a refrigerant that is also very good at smothering fires because it has a tendency to completely displace oxygen. Well, instead of hauling my butt out the hatch I took a deep breath and felt my way to the lower level because I heard someone yelling down there and then get quiet. We couldn't see squat. In about 15 seconds he was already unconscious. If I hadn't been so good at holding my breath I would have been too. Hauling him out only took about a minute but I couldn't hold it running and dragging someone else. I had to take a breath and right away started feeling dizzy. The stuff gets right into your blood through the lungs and even screws with the oxygen there.
It's just bad. Any refrigerant is. Just don't breathe it.
Google breathing fluorine gas and that stuff seems even worse. It can permanently burn your lungs. The nazzis used to use it in bombs in ww1 and 2. So did Saddam in Iraq against the Kurds.
Oh, one last thing. It's legal to buy bullets too. That doesn't mean you can load them into a gun and shoot yourself in the head. That is illegal. Just like improperly using refrigerant. I used that analogy in every class I ever taught on the subject. Those guys always had the same argument as you that it's legal to buy so you must be able to do what you want with it. It's just not so.
Oh ya know what happens to most refrigerants when they come into contact with something hot. Like fire or an exhaust manifold?
They convert to a nasty little gas called phosgene.
Nasty stuff. And it will kill you real fast.
These kinds of things are why a license is required to work on air conditioning. No matter what kind of refrigerant is in it.
After some reading through 608 , I finally found something that was clear ,
EPA has finalized a rulemaking (69 FR 11946; March 12, 2004) that does not include a restriction on the sale of HFC refrigerant R-134a. EPA has limited the sales restriction to refrigerants that contribute to depletion of the stratospheric ozone layer, including HFC blends containing an ozone-depleting substance (e.g., FRIGC FR-12, Free Zone, Hot Shot or R-414B, GHG-X4 or R-414A, and Freeze 12). While EPA does not restrict the sale of pure HFC substitutes, it remains illegal to knowingly vent HFC substitutes during the maintenance, service, repair, or disposal of air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment (i.e., appliances).
Since 2004
I owe Ken C an apology..
The info I had was outdated (obviously ) . Much has changed since then.
Since I don't vent it , I haven't paid much attention..