I also found out , 134 has a replacement . Changing 2 atoms of fluorine - with 2 atoms of hydrogen ,makes it meet the projected EPA limits .

I'm sure they change that eventually as well ...

 

I'm not sure if that replacement is going to be approved for cars. It's too flammable. The 134A is supposed to be phased out from cars real soon but I don't think it's set yet as to with which one. I'm just glad I have lots of it stocked up. I still have one 80 pounder of r12 too. I need to ebay that one probably. I just converted my kids truck and sold our antique a couple years ago so no need for it anymore.
Now I need to stock up on r22 also. I built my own ac system for the house last year and it's a r22 system. It sure beats the old swamp cooler we had!


Anyway, any word on that clutch yet? Did the OP check it out? I bought a couple of them last year and rebuilt a few compressors but it was with old kits I had. Those rebuild kits and clutches cost a fortune now! It was actually cheaper last fall to buy a complete compressor with clutch at Advance auto parts and Napa. I think it cost me around 140 for the whole thing. They wanted 200 for a clutch!

 

Ok, screw it you guys convinced me to take it to a shop. Neal I will check the connection first.

 

Check and see if you can turn the clutch by hand first.
I can tell you what a shop is going to say.
First more than a thousand dollars.

New compressor, orifice tube and dryer.
Probably a new condensor if they are really slick for another 500 bucks.

If you are going to go to a shop then you might want to take some ky. It eases the pain.

Seriously, it's best to go with as much info as possible so they don't take you to the cleaners.

 

Chlorine destroys Ozone. Its a scientific fact. Not a political one. Its the laws of physics at work. Not some evil politician. Both Elements can be found on the Periodic Table of the Elements. But don't take my word for it. Do your own experiments if you like.

also, we always use dry nitrogen to break a vacuum on a system of any size from a small automotive system all the way up through several thousand tons of refrigeration capacity (The principles of operation of the basic refrigeration cycle are the same just on a different scale.) when it has gotten moisture in it. the nitrogen absorbs the moisture (moisture being bad and all) making it easier to evacuate it from the system. you wanna hang meat? Not gonna happen with a wet system. We also use it to pressurize any size refrigeration systems to assist when using leak detection equipment. Its also good for pressure testing anything because its volume changes very little with a change in temperature. The expensive equipment I mentioned would be a vacuum pump, and recovery machine with a clean tank, a set of manifold guages, a micron vacuum gauge, and access port adapters. im sure these are not the tools typical of most guys here. am I right? and by expensive, I mean mine weren't cheap. like I said earlier I dont think this is a DIY kind of repair. unless its just the clutch.

Just trying to help the lucky SOB whos enjoying 70 degree days so far north. thats windows down weather anyways.

 

Just got through replacing the hoses on my A/C system. Truck was in the body shop (for a month) for its 4th deer - they sure love diesels! While it was in I had them replace the large hose coming out of the compressor which has been dripping yellow fluid (oil) for a couple of years. Still produced cold air but I wanted it fixed since it was in the shop anyway. They ended up replacing both hoses, vacuum testing the system and refilling it ($400+). Got the truck back from the body shop on Wednesday. Tried out the A/C (still winter here) and got nothing. Fiddled with it picking up the kids from school and it worked great. Next day nothing. I figured it was the connection on top of the compressor - now new with the new hose. Put some dielectric compound on it after cleaning the female ends and the A/C is working great. Figured it must be an electrical connection after just being fixed by a competent shop with the right equipment.

Moral of the story, if you are having A/C problems check that connection on top of the compressor. It seems like the most likely place to encounter problems.

 

Today I was driving with the defrosters on and I had that burning smell again so that leads me to 2 questions. 1- does the A/c have anything to do with the defrost/ heat?? I got out and looked under the hood and the clutch and or pulley was smoking from the belt slipping around it and I could hear a belt squeal when it was idling. I disconnected the wires from A/C pump ( front and back) not sure which did what at the time. Now it runs without burning smell and squealing.
2- Can you just replace the clutch assembly by itself ( while A/C pump is still on the motor) and not disrupt the freon??? I see a bolt in the front.

The connections still looked good.

 

The AC will cycle when the defrost is on to make sure to remove humidity from the system .. You most likely need a new compressor ...Used compressors will be under 100.00 usually ..Then you will need the system evacuated & recharged right away to not ruin the replacement ...when you have a compressor failure , most likely the filtering system needs to be replaced as well.. ,You can PM me & I'll tell you what you need to do .If you want to follow the Law , have the system evacuated , then ,replace the compressor , then ,have it recharged . It will still save you more than having someone do it for you ...Leave the charging to an expert

I edited out the critical wording , so not to make things worse ...