need some help with 1980
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oh ok thanks guy i get it, the one i thought was fuel return goes to the canister on the frame rail, the line i though was fuel return on the fraim rail is also connected to the canister, thanks lol
does anyone have a pic of the choke lines im kinda confused on those..the one on the top pass side coming from inside the filter goes to another one on the carb? ugh sorry for all the questions and i do appriciate the help lol i wish my buddy would have taken pics before he removed the old carter, which btw worked just fine, it just needed some new gaskets lol now i have a whole heep of problems
btw thanks for the fire order that will help it alot i bet lol
my wires are off by one spot clockwise according to this, is that the correct order
does anyone have a pic of the choke lines im kinda confused on those..the one on the top pass side coming from inside the filter goes to another one on the carb? ugh sorry for all the questions and i do appriciate the help lol i wish my buddy would have taken pics before he removed the old carter, which btw worked just fine, it just needed some new gaskets lol now i have a whole heep of problems
btw thanks for the fire order that will help it alot i bet lol
my wires are off by one spot clockwise according to this, is that the correct order
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ok update, i went out there hooked up the new solenoid, the fire order was right just not in the right spot, i moved it back counter clockwise 1 spot and it back fired back out of the carb, hooked it back up normal and almost got it to fire, so i loosened the diz and adjusted it very little counter clock wise, it turned over really really slow about 10 - 15 times then finally fired up, set it and tried to drive and i could only barely tap the gas and it would bog out, so i turned the diz like 1/4 counter clockwise and now its as peppy as can be, although i think the battery is dead cuz it was only turning over super slow and sometimes i would just get a click, i brought my accord up to it and hooked jumper cables and it fired right up no hesitation or clicking from the solenoid..
i cant find my timing light its in my parents basement somewhere or stolen lol so im not sure what the timing is set at, but it does has a few small backfires at idle so i think its a little off or it might be running a little rich or maybe lean..
thanks for all your help, btw the choke works fine and there isnt a charcoal canister on the frame rail at all.. but as its running pretty decent i dont think it really matters..
i cant find my timing light its in my parents basement somewhere or stolen lol so im not sure what the timing is set at, but it does has a few small backfires at idle so i think its a little off or it might be running a little rich or maybe lean..
thanks for all your help, btw the choke works fine and there isnt a charcoal canister on the frame rail at all.. but as its running pretty decent i dont think it really matters..
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From: Virginia
If your dist is hitting something on the engine and you can't turn it enough, you can do what you did in your previous post, and move the wires around.
Pull the dist cap off and look at the rotor and how it points to each wire. That's part of the job of the dist, to point the spark to the correct sparkplug wire. If you move the wires around like you did, then the rotor is now pointing to the wrong wire. That's why it back fired through the carb. If you move the wires like you did again, then loosen the dist housing and turn the dist housing till the rotor points to the correct wire again. If you move the wires, you want to rotor to point to the exact same wire that it did before you moved the wires. What this will do for you is get the dist housing moved away from whatever is blocking it from turning.
You can play "musical chairs" and move the wires any direction you want, just make sure the rotor ends up pointing to the same wire as when you started. This is all rough adjustments like you have been doing, and after you get it situated, find that timing light and get it fine tuned to the correct timing number.
Pull the dist cap off and look at the rotor and how it points to each wire. That's part of the job of the dist, to point the spark to the correct sparkplug wire. If you move the wires around like you did, then the rotor is now pointing to the wrong wire. That's why it back fired through the carb. If you move the wires like you did again, then loosen the dist housing and turn the dist housing till the rotor points to the correct wire again. If you move the wires, you want to rotor to point to the exact same wire that it did before you moved the wires. What this will do for you is get the dist housing moved away from whatever is blocking it from turning.
You can play "musical chairs" and move the wires any direction you want, just make sure the rotor ends up pointing to the same wire as when you started. This is all rough adjustments like you have been doing, and after you get it situated, find that timing light and get it fine tuned to the correct timing number.
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cool! i thought i could do that but i didnt wanna eff it up so bad and ruin something, cuz when i turn it more than 1/4 turn the vac advance hits the block.. thanks! im heading out there in about an hour, gunna get the timing light out and the dwell tach/volt meter too
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so i set the timing to zero, it was idling pretty high, hooked up my dwell meter and it was at 1500 rpm idle, adjusted the carb now its perfect at 800, thats what my honda idles so if that is high please let me know, only other problem i have is finding an oil cap, i find them on autozone and schucks online but at the store they say they dont have them all they have are aftermarket breather caps which i dont want.... what gives.. is there a better place to find them or should i hit up ford or something??
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