ISSPRO Performax Gauge Install
I got Boost, EGT, Tranny Temp, Coolant Temp, Fuel Pressure, and HPOP Pressure.

The first thing was to decide where to mount the ESP (Electronic Signal Precessor). After looking under the hood the most obvious place was right in front of the driver side battery.

Had to make a couple of brackets to mount it and relocate the DRL resistor. Most don't have Daytime Running Lights and will not have the DRL resistor.
The ESP with brackets and dimensions.


The DRL was moved about 6 1/2" toward the fender. Pics taken from where battery would be. Removed Batt and AIS intake to run all the wiring.

The next thing was to put together the under hood harness. Was easier than I had thought.


Pin count on the ESP connectors. I had to use a magnifying glass to see the numbers.

Next I installed the sensors. For the fuel pressure sensor I removed the under hood fuel gauge I had and the sensor fit perfect, 1/8" NPT.
The HPOP pressure sensor is connected to the ICP sensor via a supllied pig tail splice. Disconnect the ICP sensor connector and plug in the pigtail and then plug the ICP connector into it.
The pic shows some of the sensors wired and others not. Forgot to always take a pic when I should.

The wiring to cab and sensors routed to the ESP around the battery tray and under the AIS intake. This pic is before I got the wiring all tie wrapped and straightened out.

Wiring to ESP complete. All the wires for sensors to ESP are very long (prewired) so the excess wire was bundled up and put in the large split loom and tucked behind the ESP. I like it to be neat.

Besides the 3 wires that go to the guages (orange, white & black) I ran these wires into cab. Green was for the Dimmer (fused for 15 amps??? per instructions) and pink for Ignition swiched power. I had gauges previously and knew where to hook them up rather than to find a source under the hood. The blue wire is for Mode, used to customize the dimmer brightness. Yellow is for Total Recall, to display stored gauge readings. The install instructions explain all this in better detail.

This is pic of the gauge wires run to pillar pod. Leave a lot of slack so that if you like you can swap gauges from hole to hole or pod to pod . I also left a lot of slack in the under dash pod. That is what's nice about the ESP. The ESP sends the signal to the appropriate gauge no matter its position. Just disconnect one gauge and replace it with another without re-wiring. The gauges are connected to the ESP via what I would discribe as a serial bus.

The last wiring I did was under the hood for always on power with 3 amp inline fuse, for ESP memory, and a good ground. Ohm out the ground you choose with other engine and frame grounds to make sure there is continuity.
Pillar gauges daytime. Flash went off so it is a bit washed out.
Fuel Pressure, Boost, EGT and the DP Switch.

Daytime with lights on. The pointers light up.

Night time. Not a good pic but you get the idea.

Under dash pod.
Coolant Temp, Tranny Temp and HPOP Pressure.


I only had 3 problems:
1. The yellow wire (Total Recall) in the black ESP connector(prewired) was in position 5 and the instructions said it was supposed to be in 12. After checking with Clay that it did belong in 12 it was easy to move.
2. Even after using the Mode control to get the gauges as dim as possible they still are to bright for night driving. Wish I had gone with red pointers but I have trouble with red and my previous gauges had red pointers and were hard to see. Maybe I will get used to them, but if I turn the truck dimmer switch low enough the gauge lights go out and there is still plenty of light to see the instrument panel. I actually like being able to do this.
4. The adapters that came with the coolant temp sensor (see pic below) would not accept the sensor. Notice how the threads in the hex bushings are deep inside. The 2 hex hushings on the right that came with the gauges were useless. Although one did fit where I removed the plug in the water pump the coolant sender would not thread into it. I bought a 1/4" to 3/8" NPT hex hushing at Ace and with the thread adapter that did come with the gauges I got the coolant temp sensor installed.

Yes, you do have to drain about 5 gallons of coolant to install the coolant sensor. A little word of caution here. Before you drain the coolant be sure you have a tool to remove the plug in the water pump. I just happened to have the right size allen wrench. Not all the plugs are the same. My water pump is after market and not OEM. Check the plug before you drain. The Final Charge ELC I had was drained into a couple of clean white plastic buckets and put back in. Had less than a thousand miles on it. This would also be the time to think about a new thermastat and radiator hoses.
So far I am really liking these gauges. The fuel pressure gauge has all ready helped me diagnose a problem. After the intall I went out for some WOT runs. I picked one of my favorite grades. I nailed it and was moving out qiuite nicely when the engine stumbled. I thought "WTF". I did another run and watched the fuel pressure dropping and then it stumbled when the pressure hit about 25 psi. After some thought I looked at the fuel gauge and I was way below 1/4 tank. I filled it up this morning. It took almost 31 gallons. Did a couple more WOT runs and no stumbling. WOT up hill with too little fuel and the pickup foot isn't in the fuel. That was easy.
As far as pricing for the gauges check with Clay at Riffraff. He got me a good deal.
I hope you enjoy reading this thread as much as I did putting it together.
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
You need to order the data logging software, very handy!
When I did my Coolant sender I just worked quick, removed the old plug, finger over the hole, grabbed the temp sender, remove finger and install...
Lost less then a qt of coolant...












