Finally had my first coil pack and sparkplug blow! Stuck on the highway now. Made it 214000 miles before this had happen with no problems with the spark plugs so I guess it was just my time.
My question is before I shut the truck down and I had to move it from the gas pumps to the parking lot. I unplugged the coil pack to move it over. Just prior to finally shutting it down and wait for a tow truck the engine just died by itself. Could it have done that because the cyl was flooding with fuel or have I created a worse problem for myself?
thanks guys

 

Don't know why it would stall like that, unless it just didn't like the miss.

 

Yeah, I don't know either. Just hoping I didn't ruin the cyl or something. Crossing my fingers that i didn't melt a piston or something. But what makes sense to me is that with the COP unplugged and the injector still spraying fuel into the cyl that it very possible could have just flooded it persay. Just prior to this and before I figured out what the popping sound was the plug was still in there creating a spark near the fuel.
Anyways I got it towed home and I gonna see if I can find one of thes heli coil kits that you all talk about.

 

So i called around today looking for the helicoil kit 5334-14, nobody has it. Autozone told me they had it, went over and bought it. Only to find out that when I tried to use it there is a differance between the two 14mm x 1.25 kits. The one they gave me had the inserts with the tangs. Oh..well.
found a place online and the price is $18.76. There gonna overnight it to me. Need to get the truck back on the road.

How are you guys reaching into the head to get the hole retapped and get the insert in? Is there a thread that might have all the details?
thanks fella's

 

Search for "timesert". It's not a $19 kit, that's for sure.

 

<TABLE class=blkborder4 cellPadding=4 width="95%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="80%">14MM Cylinder Head Re-Threader Kit


2125</TD><TD width="20%" align=right>$33.75 <FORM method=post action=http://mytoolstore.com/cgi-bin/mts/cart.pl><INPUT alt="Add to Cart" align=right src="http://www.mytoolstore.com/assets/addcart.gif" type=image> <INPUT value=KDT-2125 type=hidden name=id> <INPUT value=KDTools type=hidden name=name> <INPUT value=33.75 type=hidden name=price> <INPUT value="14MM CYLINDER HEAD RETHREADER KIT" type=hidden name=description> <INPUT value=2.52 type=hidden name=ship> <INPUT value=0.00 type=hidden name=add> <INPUT value=http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdindex.html type=hidden name=returnto> </FORM></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Repair damaged 14mm spark plug threads by opening hole with a reamer/tap and screwing insert onto the spark plug. Use spark plug socket to install spark plug and insert. Remove plug and check that insert is properly seated. Set includes 1 each of 4 inserts: 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 and 3/4" reach and thread locking compound. Tap is designed for aluminum heads only.
</TD><TD align=middle></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
KD Cylinder Head and Spark Plug Rethreaders, KD 2125, KD 2123

The above kit is what a mechanic used to repair my brother in laws truck just a couple weeks ago. He only charged 60 bucks to do it. You screw the insert onto the plug, he told us to put blue lock tite between the plug and insert and red lock tite on the outside of the insert. When you go to tap the hole make sure the piston is down you dont want the tap to hit the piston, and cover the tap with grease to catch the shavings. He has been using this method several years and said he has never had a fixed hole fail afterwards.

 

I got the HeliCoil Sav a thread kit in today.
Tapping the hole is the easy part.
You then have a insert where you have threads on one side and teeth on the other. the teeth go up. The hard part is getting the insert all the way in. Directions aren't as clear as I like them to be.
Using a spark plug you thread the insert on it. Place some High temp RTV sealant about two threads up from the bottom. Supposedly you just screw it in and remove the plug again. The insert stays in the hole. After several tries I finally got it to work that way.
My question is that after placing the expander tool in there is the end result for the insert to be flush with the head or will it end up where the insert is still raised a little with the teeth from the insert still visible?
thanks

 

Let me know how it goes. I just had one blow out last night. I will be looking at with my bore scope tonight. I should be able to tell if all of the threads are shot. I was able to start the plug but it stop from going in.

 

Well I let it sit the way it was for about an hour. Then when back out and put the sparkplug back in. Threaded it down in till it was a bit tight. Then removed the plug again with a quick jerk and pulled it up. Insert was know flush with the head.

Vac out the cyl per other threads and blew out. Let it sit for a couple of hours and put it all back together. Fired right up. But ... know I got a Code PO358 Primary/Secondary coil voltage. I'm assuming since my other coil blew apart and because I put one of my old coils back it that maybe there's a problem with that coil? Would this be a safe assumption?

 

Yasky69,

What year is your truck ? Are these original spark plugs ?

You may want to "clear code" by unhooking your battery for a few minutes and turn your headlights on to drain residual voltage . Then , see if your code is coming back .

XMAN00,

What year and what mileage ?


Try to use a repair kit designed for "tapered spark plug hole " .

Ken

 

My x is a 2000 and it has 153,000 on it. I also think these are the original plugs if I correct. I have only had it for a couple of months.

 

That code is probably from when the plug blew and it's not cleared yet. Clear the codes, and drive it for a few days and see if it comes back.